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Front Brake Pad/Rotor Replacement

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by 72fordgts, Nov 11, 2013.

  1. 72fordgts

    72fordgts Member

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    I need to replace my front pads and rotors on my 2010 Prius. When I compress the caliper piston, is it okay to crack the bleeder valve to extract the fluid? I don't see how this would cause issue, but I thought I'd check here first.

    Anyone with experience please chime in.
     
  2. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    It may very well upset the car's electronics, trigger warnings. Consider disconnecting the 12 volt before swinging the caliper away from the disk, and avoid opening the driver's door. Have you noticed the whir sound pretty much whenever you open drivers door: that could eject a piston if the caliper's swung up.

    I'm scared off brake jobs on this car, but other brave souls have done pad replacement I think.
     
  3. 72fordgts

    72fordgts Member

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    I have done the rear brakes on my car before, when they wore prematurely due to a frozen pad. I disconnected the 12 volt when I did the rears. I also service my brakes when I switch from summer to winter tires and vice versa. When I remove the caliper for servicing, I have not disconnected the 12 volt, and I am sure not to open the drivers door (I usually manually lock it to be safe), and I have never had an issue.

    So I am not worried about the actual repair, I just want to make sure that open the bleeder to contract the piston won't cause issue.
     
  4. gliderman

    gliderman Active Member

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    Does anyone have the procedure or manual pages for doing a brake job on a Prius Gen 3?
     
  5. EGGS

    EGGS Member

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    what is that whirring sound?

    subscribed . i was wondering how difficult this was as well
     
  6. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    My hunch is opening the bleeder valve will cause an issue. That the electronics will detect an intitial low pressure at boot-up. Maybe push back the piston but leave the bleeder alone?'

    Still, with all the electronics (and I've done pad replacements for decades) I'm inclined to just pass it to the pros.
     
  7. El Dobro

    El Dobro A Member

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    The sound is the brake system building up pressure. Since the ICE doesn't run all the time to build up vacuum, it has an accumulator for pressure.
     
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  8. EGGS

    EGGS Member

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    Awesome . Thank you .

    Now back to trying to change the brakes .
     
  9. spiderman

    spiderman wretched

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    you shouldn't need to open the bleeder to pish the piston in. jist wait a while till the accumulated pressure has blead off.
     
  10. frodoz737

    frodoz737 Top Wrench

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    I have not done this on the Prius...yet...however the first step says to "Disable Brake Control". You will not need to open the bleeder. just remove the bolts, do a little wiggle and slide the caliper up and away. A "C-Clamp is best for compressing the shoe/piston, and is needed for clearance to install with the thicker new pads.

    The manual does state this:

    When the brake pedal is first depressed after replacing the brake pads or pushing back the disc
    brake piston, DTC C1214 may be output. As there is no malfunction, clear the DTC.

    So you will need to be able to clear the code likely thrown.

    Still looking for definition of "Disable Brake Control". Though the battery and door trick may be acceptable, I would make sure first so you do not disable the car and have to bend over at the Dealership afterwards.

    Will post more later if some one does not beat me to it. Going to work now.
     
  11. 72fordgts

    72fordgts Member

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    I know for a fact I will have to push the piston in. I have had the caliper off the car many times, and it does NOT retract. I have done countless brake jobs, and normally I like to crack the bleeder valve so that when I force the piston back, it pushes the old fluid out the bleeder without disturbing the rest of the system. I have done it before where I push the piston back in without opening the bleeder, which of course pushes fluid back in the lines instead of out the bleeder. In my opinion this is more likely to upset the brake system than opening the bleeder. But I don't know all there is to know about the brakes on these cars.

    That said, when I did the rear brakes last year, I just disconnected the 12 volt, and forced the piston back in with a rear caliper tool. When I put everything back together, no codes, no issues, brakes worked fine. I'd just prefer to open the bleeder method if possible, and it helps get rid of a bit of old fluid too.
     
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  12. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    That was on the 2010 Prius? Except you didn't crack the bleed bolt?

    Good to know.
     
  13. EGGS

    EGGS Member

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    so it sounds like a pretty standard brake job except you have to disconnect the battery , keep the fob in the house and lock the car with the key lol (y)
     
  14. TheredBull

    TheredBull Junior Member

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    I have been searching the web to see if there is any video showing how brake pad replacement is done on any generation of prius (2000-2013) and I have not found a single video. Prius is a rare breed ;)
     
  15. The Critic

    The Critic Resident Critic

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    I just had the front brakes apart last night. Disconnected the 12v first, then removed the caliper and bracket. Caliper bolts are a 14mm and the bracket bolts are a 17mm. You may need to a flathead screwdriver to pry against the end of the caliper pins to keep them from spinning.

    Be sure to lube the slide pins with fresh silicone lube. My brakes still had 4.5mm left after 77k, but the slide pins were frozen in the bracket.

    Pump the pedal 10-15 times before reconnecting the battery and you should not set any codes.
     
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  16. gliderman

    gliderman Active Member

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    Anybody have a schematic of the brake assembly? Or point me to one?
     
  17. Den49

    Den49 Member

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    There are quite a few people now, including me, who have actually disassembled, serviced and/or replaced brakes on their 2010+ Prius without setting codes, etc., by: first disconnecting the 12V battery, leaving the driver's door shut, and lastly pumping the brake pedal when finished to restore firmness before reconnecting the 12V battery. Just don't try to flush or bleed the system yourself; leave that for the dealer.

    Lubricating the slide pins is essential to keep the calipers from seizing and causing major repair expense.
     
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  18. gliderman

    gliderman Active Member

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  19. El Dobro

    El Dobro A Member

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    Front brakes would actually be easier. The piston can be pyshed in with a clamp and they don't have the springs the rear has.
     
  20. frodoz737

    frodoz737 Top Wrench

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    Hoped you would chimed in. ;)