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    efusco Troll Slayer

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    I posted this in the KB article as well, but thought more folks might see it here:

    Hey guys...I have some key info I think is important for those blocking their grill.

    I recently converted from my old style of block (one piece of insulation for the top grill and one for the bottom) to blocking each individual slat for a nicer appearance. I drove today from my home to St. Louis. Temps were around 42F and the terrain is hilly..steep in areas but nothing dramatic by Ozarks standards. This is all interstate with a70mph speed limit...and that's what I had the CC set at.

    Previously I've driven this in similar conditions with grill blocking and temps for MG2 and the ICE were fine. Today, however, I got a little concerned. I actually witnessed MG2 temps climb slowly during the drive up to 114F sustained and ICE temps up to 204F spikes, but sustained closer to 197F.

    I think the individual slat blocking gives a much more complete obstruction to air flow...great thing for short, low ICE used (aka city) trips, not so great with high speed hill climbing continuous ICE trips. If temps had been closer to 50F without ability to monitor I'm seriously concerned I could have been in the danger zone for the temps.

    I stopped for gas with the intention of removing a block from one lower slat but actually forgot. When pulling out of the parking lot I remembered and stopped, backed up a few feet (25' max)...saw MG2 spike to 152F briefly!!! That's,by far, the highest I've ever seen it. I pulled the middle insulation strip for the lower slats and took off. MG2 temp quickly dropped and was down to 120 by the time I was off the exit and within a mile was below 110.

    From that point on ICE temps ranged b/w 182F and188F(trending lower), MG2 was in the 70s and 80s the rest of the trip. Actually those are cooler than I would have liked, but I didn't want to stop again. And I didn't want to risk higher temps.

    So, if you have your grill completely blocked with the individual slat technique and do NOT have a way to monitor temps be very very careful on highway/high speed/high demand driving conditions esp. if OAT is over40F...I used to say 50F was safe, but I would not reconsider under slightly more extreme conditions.
    2 people like this.
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    Tideland Prius Moderator of the North

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    Good to know Doc! Yeah I have mine in several pieces actually.

    For the upper grille, I have two pieces for the bit above the grille bar and two pieces below.

    Hmm.. 10°C for city driving? :eek: I had them on until 15°C
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    Bob64 Sapphire of the Blue Sky

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    I have mine arranged in a 90% blocked 10% gap on the right side of the lower grill.
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    a priori Canonus Curiosus

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    Very important warning! Thanks, Efusco, for keeping track of this.

    We aren't getting above freezing for a few days, so I'm not much concerned, but this is a critical warning to remember when Spring rolls around.

    Would you be able to add this to the Grill Blocking Summary article? I thing we should include a link there to this posting so people can keep track of the ongoing discussion.
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    Proco New Member

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    Thanks for the heads-up, Evan! I use the individual slat technique & have a daily commute of ~50 miles. I'll make darn sure I keep at least one lower one clear.
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    efusco Troll Slayer

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    I posted it there first.
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    craigk New Member

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    Thanks for the details and warning, I just blocked one upper and one lower a couple of hours ago! The temp here is 15f, but maybe I'll unblock one anyway on my highway road trip coming up soon. I don't think it helps as much for a 400 mile highway drive anyway, does it?
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    efusco Troll Slayer

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    With even just one lower slat unblocked at 43F I showed ICE temps below normal operating temps...I don't know how much, if any, that affected efficiency, but it certainly wasn't in the 'normal' range.

    At 15F I'd have the whole thing blocked up tight as a drum.
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    craigk New Member

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    I'm afraid to block the grill 100% when on the highway without the scanguage.
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    ad78 New Member

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    i just blocked the whole grill this evening, went to home d**** and got it for $2. getting worst weather here in CT. so i think i can say its safe to blocked all the grill till february i guess.

    will get SGII the next payday
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    DaveinOlyWA 3rd Time was Solariffic!!

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    well gee... now that i dont have CANVIEW , cant monitor MG temps. but did have it and never saw temps all that high, and what should be the upper temp levels??

    i do have Scangauge and like you, i noticed it hard to keep temps in the 190's where i want them if i did not block all slats which i do and have always done it with individual pieces.

    as far as water temps go, i see it at as high as 206-207 frequently, but i dont consider that too high since it never gets beyond that and its not hot enough for the fan to come on and it never stays there very long anyway. to be honest with ya, i often wondered how accurate Scangauge was because the temps always seem to fluctuate quite a bit...

    i will say that i rarely drive 70 mph, usually keep it at 60... that is the limit around here anyway so that extra speed might be the culprit
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    john1701a Prius Guru

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    The highest I have ever seen mine with grille blocking (upper 100%, lower 70%) is 195. Most of the time, the thermostat opens around 191.

    Apparently, that last 30% makes a huge difference for temp. What does that equate to for MPG?
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    DaveinOlyWA 3rd Time was Solariffic!!

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    well to be honest with ya, i did monitor water temps for summer driving with AC etc., and can not find the data but pretty sure that it hovered around 202-207... so apparently the car is programmed to not go over that range under normal circumstances.

    keep in mind, we have very mild winters here. after a cold snap that lasted a week, we are currently in south pacific monsoon conditions... since Sunday morning when it was snowing and 33F...the temps have constantly risen so for two days in a row, the high temperature for the day was at midnight. its currently about 60F now. granted 60 is not normal nor is snow... we usually have daytimes running around 45F generally comfortable enough that i wear shorts about 11 months of the year. (yes a lot of people think im crazy)

    as far as mileage goes, i am currently in a driving pattern shift. since i got the Zenn, it has become my main car while Linds is using the Prius. three days a week, her commute is over 50 miles with half being freeway because her mother babysits Ry. On tues and thurs, i watch Ry and her commute is just 6 miles one way all city/suburban. The mileage has gone down. last tank needs to be extrapolated since she committed a major sin and did a partial fillup messing up the tank data but it was in the 49 mpg range and this is the first full tank she has driven. ( i drove 45 miles of it)
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    prim2 New Member

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    Following Evan's suggestion, I removed the insulation from the left (NA driver's side) half of the upper row of the lower grill. The rest is blocked. With OAT at 25F, at 60mph and moderate uphill grades my coolant temp. is now regulated at 190+/-5F. Under the same conditions (speed, grade, load, OAT) coolant temp. was previously hitting 204F.
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    DaveinOlyWA 3rd Time was Solariffic!!

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    i guess my question is... is 204 too high??? i run it at that a lot...but only when driving more than say 20 miles... most of the time, it struggles to make the 170's and i block everything
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    Ichabod Artist In Residence

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    Without the technical expertise or experience to back me up, I'd say yes that's too high... I don't think it's designed to operate for extended periods at those temps. A little hotter and your coolant system will pressurize. That could be bad-ish, no?
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    prim2 New Member

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    To quote Ken from another thread:

    "Based on the specification of the Prius thermostat, it starts to open at 82C(180F) and it fully opens at 95C(203F).
    We saw the normal coolant temperature is around 88C(190F).
    Anyway, the radiator is fully working above 203F and is going to a overheating range."
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    DaveinOlyWA 3rd Time was Solariffic!!

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    wish i knew... regular ICE's run pressurized most of the time in summer so dont know. regular water boils at 212...with scangauge i can check max water temps for any trip and have never seen it above 208 i believe.

    also, it does not stay at that level consistently. it bounces from the low 190's to the mid 200's. to change would require me to remove blocks constantly, since most driving is at suburban conditions and since i am not the primary driver anymore that would not be possible.


    *edit* ok so prev post says 203 is the danger point... ok now have to wonder how much stock should i take in instantaneous temp readings because when looking at the temp readings it does bounce around the 203 figure give or take a few degrees
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    David Beale New Member

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    I don't have Toyota data to back it up, but the Prius does use glycol coolant, and normally if it doesn't freeze at -40C it doesn't boil until it gets well above 230F.

    -I- think it's safe even at or just above 100C or 212F. It -is - a pressurized system, after all. It's the inverter coolant that could be a problem. I wouldn't want to see that running at 60C or above too often. The higher the temp the less power it can handle before disaster. But I'm sure the Toyota engineers have put in some form of protection for it, such as reduction in use if the temp is too high. I'll bet it gets pretty hot in Texas summer weather.

    Shortly after I installed my grill blocking the ambient went up to 20C one day. I saw 105C coolant temps under heavy load. Didn't cause any problems that I could see or feel. But yes, I was worried and was watching closely. The first time is always the worrier.
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    efusco Troll Slayer

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    The 203 number is kinda what made me feel that I could be pushing my limits. I do NOT think there is any risk of damage at 204, but the car's ability to self-regulate is maximized and if I hit a longer than expected hill climb or a higher than expected demand on the ICE the risk of over-heating exists.

    Likewise, the inverter was of greater concern...not only was the continuous temp higher than I'd ever run it for a sustained time before, the 152 peak temp really did freak me out...a sustained regen braking period or even a traffic jam where I was running in stealth could push that temp up. I didn't want to wait and see what consequences might arise.

    I do not think the temps I observed were dangerous...but I felt that I was at the limit of the car's ability to auto-regulate...I wanted to give it back that ability.

    FWIW, I drove to KC this week. About the same distance and speeds (60-70mph) though not as hilly. Temps were in the 30s (as opposed to the 40s as they were in the first post in the thread). I had everything fully blocked and never saw the Inverter temp over 90 during normal driving (it did get up to 106 after using reverse at start up) and the ICE temp stayed around 184-190 range the entire trip.

    So, I'd say full blocking is safe up to 40F. But a slight unblock (one lower slat or one-half lower slat) up to 50F. Above that you may need at least a full slat or maybe a little more...but I don't have good enough data to make a specific recommendation.

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