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Help with Gentex Wiring

Discussion in 'Prius v Main Forum' started by kennethfuller@juno.com, Jan 22, 2012.

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  1. kennethfuller@juno.com

    kennethfuller@juno.com New Member

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    Just took possession of my 2012 Prius v III without Gentex Auto Dim/Homelink rear view mirror. I've purchased a Gentex 453 015894 homelink/compass but am unable to identify the wiring.

    The connector is a ten pin with six wires. Black, Yellow/Red, Green/White, Violet/Red, Green/Brown and Blue/Brown.

    I've found two sites which identified the wiring but are not the same. Here are the two results:


    Black-Ground
    Purple-ACC 12V Power
    Green with White-Reverse Lights
    Green with Brown-Temp Sensor
    Blue with Brown-Temp Sensor
    Yellow with Red-Constant 12V Power

    and

    Black-Ground
    Violet with Red-Negative Ambient Temp Sensor
    Green with White-Reverse Lights (didn't use)
    Green with Red-Positive Ambient Temp Sensor
    Blue with Red-Ignition Switched 12V Power
    Yellow with Red-Constant 12V Power

    Any thoughts as it appears either the Blue/Red or Purple is 12V.
  2. Flyabus

    Flyabus New Member

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    Hi. I am eagerly awaiting an answer. I have the exact same issue. Thanks
    George
  3. Fstr911

    Fstr911 Member

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    I am considering installing this on my v also. I went to youtube and searched Gentex and Toyota. There are at least 2 videos that show the installation in less than 2 minutes (I'm never that lucky).

    Take a look carefully. It looks like the connection is already there on the Camry....could we be that lucky on the Prius v?

    I also tried to pull down the light on the cieling on my v but it didn't pop out like on the video. Caution is urged.

    Here's one of the links



    Here's the other link:



    Please update us if you resolve this.
  4. monkey28

    monkey28 Junior Member

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    I uploaded pdf file for factory wiring.

    Attached Files:

    • 23a.pdf
      File size:
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  5. monkey28

    monkey28 Junior Member

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    I just checked mine and I don't see connector reserved for the mirror, can you able find yours?
  6. Fstr911

    Fstr911 Member

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    Monkey28 - How did you pull down the overhead light? Was is as simple on the Prius v as it was in the Camry shown on youtube?

    I pulled down pretty hard on my light casing and it didn't pop out. I'm afraid I'm going to damage something.

    By the way that diagram shows the connector.
  7. monkey28

    monkey28 Junior Member

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    You have to pull down hard, only 4 clips there, but start pull from windshield side, those clip will break easily if cold. So prepare to get new one.

    For the connector, I checked that connector located at driver the bottom of a-pillar. But I cant't see the mirror harness after pull down the map light assy. Please check yours and let me know.
    1 person likes this.
  8. kennethfuller@juno.com

    kennethfuller@juno.com New Member

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    Flyabus.

    Job is completed and not that bad. I posted some photographs in my album on my profile site. Just left click on my user name and then go to albums.

    I found that acquiring proper tools made the removal of the panel much easier. Northern Tool or Harbor Freight plastic trim panel removal tools for less than ten bucks. Photo of tools in my photo album. I, like you, was very concerned about damaging the panel. Once the retainer popped it was a piece of cake.

    I obtain ground by self tapping screw in side of panel frame. Found constant 12V power in overhead panel plug using test light. The keyed 12V was a little more difficult but not bad. Removed the visor, visor holder and pulled down the rubber trim around the door. I did not remove the pillar trim. I ran two wires, one for 12V switched power and one for reverse power to remove dimming from mirror when in reverse. I routed the wires behind the side curtains and then down the door frame replacing the rubber trim to hold in place. I obtained 12V switched power from the fuse box power port fuse. That would be the cigar lighter from us old folks.

    I haven't found reverse power yet but will post when found.

    I hope this and the photographs help. If you have questions e-mail me or ask here.

    (PS - Since I'm new here I do not have photo posting privileges in the forum thus the photographs are posted in my album - sorry)
  9. rjparker

    rjparker Active Member

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    Nice work on the Gentex install. I have a couple of questions:

    1. Your diagram suggests prying the console from the sides while the photo shows from the bottom. Do you start on the bottom and finish on the sides?

    2. You indicate that only the constant 12v was available above. Were there other wires or connectors that might have worked or did you test everything up there? If reverse dimming was not needed it would be nice to not have to run a wire down for switched +12v.

    [​IMG]
    1 person likes this.
  10. Fstr911

    Fstr911 Member

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    Thanks Monkey & RJParker.

    Based on the detail showing the front retainer configuration, it looks like if the console is pulled from the rear side like they do in the Camry youtube video it could break the top retainer arm.
  11. kennethfuller@juno.com

    kennethfuller@juno.com New Member

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    jrparker,

    I started exactly where the tool is inserted at the front left side as seen in the photo. When you insert the trim tool you can feel the post where the retainer is mounted. I used the tool with the V end at 45 degree angle and placed the V against the post. It popped down with very little effort. I then went to the right side and did the same thing. The prying was at the base of the retainer post so I didn't bother the edge. Once the front two retainers were loose you can grab the panel with both hands and pull straight down. There are two identical retainers on the rear. These two retainers remained in the mounting hole but it was very easy to reset them in the panel.

    I looked for a both switched 12V and solid 12V source and found only one. Looking at the overhead panel plug it was the far right upper pin. I had to solder a straight pin to my test lead in order to probe the plug as the pins are very small. I attached a press fitting over the wire to access power. There are other wires but I found none that were switched 12V. I believe you will have to run a wire down to the fuse box. It's actually not that bad. You'll need to remove the rubber trim from around the door, pop the top of the pillar trim but do not remove and remove the sun visor. Make sure you run your wire behind the side curtain air bag.

    I took more photographs but for some reason they were not in focus. Sorry. It would have been nice if the photograph of the back of the panel was available so you could see the configuration. I'll post up the photos of the panel backside even though they are poor. You can see the white mounting push-ins in one photo and in the second you can see the holes where the push-ins go. Again, sorry for the quality.

    If you were to follow the Toyota installation instruction you would have to remove quite a few components. I took the path of least resistance removing only what was necessary to route the two wires to the fuse box.

    Let me know if I can answer any other questions.
  12. rjparker

    rjparker Active Member

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    thanks for the info!

    By the way we have something in common besides living in Texas (my garage on top - yours on bottom):

    [​IMG]
  13. kennethfuller@juno.com

    kennethfuller@juno.com New Member

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    Now that's funny!!! One of us is parking on the wrong side, however, since I know who in our families are driving the Vs we really don't have a say. LOL

    Have you purchased your Gentex Homelink Mirror? If not make sure you get the GNTX-453 or a Mirror with an A behind the model. (Example GNTX 45A, GNTX 51A, etc.) A mirror from any car (Nissan, Toyota, Kia, etc.) will work but watch the mounting bracket. Some models have some weird brackets. All Nissans have Amber compass.
  14. rjparker

    rjparker Active Member

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    Actually I am driving the V since I am considerably bigger. I am anticipating buying an A version of the mirror, probably with just a compass although a front camera would be superb so I could see the curb! Just a little leary of running cables here and there.
  15. monkey28

    monkey28 Junior Member

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    I don't know how to re-size the picture.
    here you go.
  16. kennethfuller@juno.com

    kennethfuller@juno.com New Member

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    That's an excellent illustration Monkey. should prove very helpful to those who haven't removed the panel yet.

    JRParker,

    Running the wires is not as difficult as it seems. If you remove the visor holder, visor, top retainer on the pillar and the rubber door trim you can easily run as many wires as desired. Pull the rubber trim off the front portion of the door opening and you'll see you can run wiring down the door frame behind the rubber trim. The rubber opening trim is re installed by pressing it into place.
  17. monkey28

    monkey28 Junior Member

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    I found a way (don't worry, it's the same way that Toyota ask the dealer to do when customer want to installed EC mirror) to tap in the switch power+ and constant power at driver side a-pillar, so you don't have to run the wires all the way to fuse box.
    Let me know if you still need help.
  18. rjparker

    rjparker Active Member

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    Can you describe the route you took and what the wires look like at the driver's side a-pillar?
  19. Fstr911

    Fstr911 Member

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    Monkey28 can you tell us where you're getting these diagrams and the service notes for the dealers techs?
  20. monkey28

    monkey28 Junior Member

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    Just look at the UL2 (as highlight in red)
    Pin 17: Black wire (switch +)
    Pin 18: Yellow (constant +)
    Ground: anywhere body frame.

    those were the 2 wires you need to tap into.

    and I attached the location of UL2 connector.
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