1. Attachments are working again! Check out this thread for more details and to report any other bugs.

Ideal Terms for Plug-in Prius Lease Newbie

Discussion in 'Dealers & Pricing' started by Krista Bradford, Mar 3, 2013.

?
  1. Yes. It seems a good deal and dealership.

    100.0%
  2. No. The deal is decent, but the dealership seems sketchy.

    0 vote(s)
    0.0%
  3. No. You coud get a better deal and dealership.

    0 vote(s)
    0.0%
  1. Krista Bradford

    Krista Bradford New Member

    Joined:
    Mar 3, 2013
    1
    0
    0
    Vehicle:
    2012 Prius Plug-in
    Model:
    Plug-in Base
    My apologies in advance for my detailed question as a lease newbie. It is my hope that the discussion thread here will be helpful to all Prius users considering a lease.

    We have a 2008 Prius and have plans to add a Plug-In Prius (PIP) to the fold. My husband and I have decided that leasing makes sense. Working from home, most of the driving I do will be running errands in the neighborhood and likely consume no gas at all. Toyota is sweetening the deal by offering deep discounts this month of $5300 on top of a $800 dealer discount. Also, because the plug-in part of the technology is a recent development, a lease leaves us free to step up into a new, improved technology should that be something we want to do or we can simply buy the car. The current market residual value is slightly higher than the lease-end price.

    I've read that Toyota Finance leases are among the best in the industry. So what components of the lease should I focus on to get the best deal? I want to drive off with a new Plug-in Prius with great terms, confident in knowing I have not been taken advantage of. I was feeling pretty good about completing signing a lease with a local dealership. While the salesman was aggressive, he provided a lot of useful information that led my husband and I to decide to go with leasing a new Prius Plug-in, when we previously were considering buying a used Prius. He broke out the offer on paper, and showed different monthly rates were we to put different amounts down. We eventually indicated that while we were going to do research, the 3-year, 12-month, no down deal seemed the way to go.

    I explained clearly that I would not lease on the spot, that my husband and I needed to discuss and research the matter this weekend. I explained I make it a practice to do very granular research and the way to close a deal would be to provide us with the level of detail required to run the numbers and analyze the fine print. The salesman pressed us to put down a $2k deposit, refundable (he wrote that on the form), to hold the 1 remaining plug-in, which we agreed to do. He then assembled an informational folder to take with us. However, when I opened it at home, none of the numbers had made it into the folder. It seems a red flag. The dealership does have an A+ rating with the BBB unlike another one just a mile from where we live, which has a horrible reputation and an F with the BBB. Consequently, I suspect the failure to include the number is more a tactical move to prevent us from shopping the deal as well as enable them to hold the advantage in the negotiation when we return and get hit cold by numbers we hadn't had the chance to review on our own.

    Working from memory, the numbers/deal we were offered for the basic plug-in were as follows for a 3 year lease, no down payment, with 12,000 miles:

    List: ~$32,000-$33,000
    Dealer discount: ~$800
    Toyota discount: ~$5300
    Lease-end purchase: ~$16,900
    Monthly cost: $356
    Money Factor: ? (The finance guy stated its "something like .001. When I do the math, that coverts to 2.4% interest)
    Capitalized Cost: ?

    Below is what Toyota is currently offering:

    • $229 per month for 36 months
    • $1999 due at signing
    • Toyota Care Featuring a complimentary maintenance plan with roadside assistance.*
    • Offer includes $5,300 Lease Bonus Cash

    Lease a new ’12 Prius Plug-in for $229 a month for 36 months with $1,999 due at signing, which includes $1,770 down, $229 first month's payment and $0 security deposit. Example based on model #1235. Base MSRP excluding freight is $32,795 monthly payments of $229 total $8,244. Capitalized cost of $32,258 based on down payment and dealer participation which may vary by dealer. Lease-end purchase option is $16,960. $350 disposition fee due at lease end unless customer purchases vehicle or decides to re-finance through Toyota Financial Services. Lease does not include taxes, license, title fees, acquisition fee of $650, insurance, regionally required equipment and other dealers’ charges are extra and not included in the amounts shown. Closed-end lease. Payment may vary depending upon final transaction price. Customer responsible for maintenance, excess wear and tear and $0.15 per mile over 12,000 miles per year. To qualified Tier I+ customers through Toyota Financial Services. Offer only valid in New York, New Jersey, and Connecticut. Must take retail delivery by 4/1/13. Bonus cash from Toyota Motor Sales USA, Inc on qualified TFS lease contracts only. Must be applied to the transaction. No cash payment will be made to consumer. *Covers normal factory scheduled service. Plan is 2 years or 25K miles, whichever comes first. The new Toyota vehicle cannot be part of a rental or commercial fleet, or a livery or taxi vehicle. See plan for complete coverage details. See participating Toyota dealer for details. Valid only in the continental United States and Alaska.
    I look forward to your thoughts on negotiating the best leasing deal. What number seems reasonable for capitalized cost? The text above suggests that's the piece that's negotiable.

    Are there any other variables worth focusing on in the negotiation? My sense is that some things that might be negotiable elsewhere might be locked in by Toyota Finance. For instance, is the money factor locked in by Toyota Finance? I know they will run our credit (which is excellent). Is that something we should do in advance either to negotiate the money factor or verify that the math is correct?

    The dealer offered to "throw in" the wear and tear guarantee at his cost -- $14 monthly -- which he said he markets for $24 a month. Does that sound like a good deal and is that guarantee something you'd recommend? Perhaps I could press for them throwing it in for free.

    I also welcome your general advice on length of term, annual miles, and whether it makes sense to put $ down to reduce monthly cost . . .

    Last, I welcome your thinking on whether you'd do business with the dealership given the disappearing numbers. I have sent an email to the salesman requesting the numbers in writing, stressing that was the path to closing the deal. We will be returning tomorrow to either complete the lease negotiation or walk away.

    Many thanks!
     
  2. Teacake

    Teacake OohShiny

    Joined:
    Oct 5, 2011
    152
    43
    0
    Location:
    Louisville, KY
    Vehicle:
    2012 Prius
    Model:
    Three
    I've been looking into leasing a Prius as well (not a PiP, though). Off the top of my head, I wouldn't be too concerned they didn't give you those numbers to take home. They don't really want you to figure out every nook and cranny of the financing because then they can't make extra money off you. :)

    I don't know what a "wear and tear guarantee" is - that part does sound suspicious. I'd take a stab that that's some kind of made-up protection against normal physical damage that they might ding you for at the end of your lease terms (similar to how they'd charge you for extra miles you'd driven outside of your lease terms).

    When I visited my dealership last weekend, my salesman noted the only real reason to put more money down on a lease (in your case, more than $1999) would be: a) to reduce monthly payments, yes b) if you're CERTAIN you'd want to buy the car at the end of your lease. Does that make sense? At the end of your lease you have two options - return the car OR buy it outright at the agreed-upon residual value. You mention that you and your family are intrigued by trying the PiP new technology, so I'd say don't put down extra money. What if you don't like the car for some reason? That's money you will not get back at the end of your lease term.

    Here's some good reading I stumbled across recently to help you: Frequently Asked Questions About Car Leasing

    Not sure how accurate this is, but I've read you really do want to negotiate down the price of the vehicle itself and/or the residual value. The money factor is something very specific that I haven't mastered yet, but it's definitely not the % interest. You'd be wise to read up on that more. Yes, they run your credit for a lease just as they do for a conventional auto loan. You should ALWAYS know your credit score prior to anything financial action involving your credit, but especially so for car sales because the dealers will tell you that your score is worse than it is. You want to have proof of what your score is to counter with.

    Hope that helps!