Inverter failure in 2003 prius

I suggest you find out what the DTC were, and post.

Yes, if the inverter had failed, then the warning lights would remain on.

I also suggest you look at the inverter coolant reservoir when the Prius is READY, for fluid turbulence. If you do not see this, then the problem is that the inverter coolant pump has failed and that is a reasonably inexpensive repair (three-digits).

 

If the inverter had totally failed, you probably would not have driven it to the dealer. The inverter coolant pump is a good suspect. Not sure if the 2003 is eligible for the inverter coolant pump replacement under Limited Service Campaign. I suggest you register on the Toyota owners website and check what has been done and what it's eligible for in the way of Warrant replacements, LSCs, and Technical service Bulletins (T-SBs), then get back here. If the inverter coolant reservoir, the one just in front of the windshield needs coolant, use only Toyota Super Long Life Coolant, SLCC. They sell one that is premixed 50/50 and one you are supposed to mix with deionized water. Make it easy on yourself.

 

Had you had anything else done to the car recently, jump starting, oil change, or run out of gas?
How many miles are on the car? What are the driving conditions as far as pets that shed, smokers, dusty roads?

 

If you cannot obtain the DTC from your dealer, you may wish to obtain a second opinion as you probably don't want to pay a four-digit amount to replace the inverter, then find that your car still has a problem.

 

If you have access to an OBDII diagnostic tool or go to another trusted mechanic, you could check the codes.
There is a website you can search for specific Prius DTCs,

OBDII Trouble Code List | Engine-Codes.com

and maybe narrow it down.

 

How old is the 12V battery? With the fall comes cooler temperatures and marginal 12V batteries are notorious for causing intermittent symptoms.

Do you have a VOM or any interest in getting a Prius-aware scanner? The scanner puts you in conttrol to manage your Prius.

Bob Wilson

 

I'm going to suggest you may want to consider a 12V battery replacement. There are a lot of threads about what folks have done in the past. But my memory of Spokane is you get below freezing from time to time.

My personal preference is Exceed but many folks have had good experience with Odyssey. Truth be told, I have no commitment in 12V battery technology and I would just as likely go with any AutoZone/NAPA/Harbor Freight POS today. But that is a longer story than we have time tonight.

So how long has it been since the FOB stopped locking and unlocking the doors? A new 12V battery and that function should return.

Bob Wilson

 

If only the drivers door doesn't unlock with the FOB the actuator inside the door is broken. You can replace the entire actuator or replace the $5 motor inside the actuator (the reason they fail), but getting the actuator open is a bit of a PITA since it's glued shut.

If your 12V has needed a jump or charge more than once in 6 months probably time to install a new one.

 

Regarding the Inverter, if it was really bad codes would be persistent.

I would change the inverter coolant pump, especially if it has never been changed. Yours may be intermittent, i.e. worked when you looked at it but perhaps it failed while driving after x amount of time and caused the car to code.

Change the pump first, also the 12V battery, then see if the inverter problem goes away.

It probably will and you'll save a lot of money. If you truly need a new inverter there are plenty of good used ones out there...don't waste money on a new dealer inverter.

 

I found when my 12V battery was getting weak, the fob could not lock and unlock the doors. New 12V battery and the fob-locking problem was solved.

Bob Wilson

 

Tom,
Bob and Paul are right on track. If you do end up needing an inverter, give me a call.
I can get you a good deal on a used one.