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Max watt amplifier

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Audio and Electronics' started by Austin lavicka, Feb 5, 2014.

  1. Austin lavicka

    Austin lavicka Junior Member

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    I am buying a pair of 12 inch subs for my car. Each is rated at 1600 watts. I was thinking about getting a 3000 watt amp. Would this be compatible? If not, any recommendations?
     
  2. 69shovlhed

    69shovlhed Surly tree hugger

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    I'm sure you could make it work, but these cars aren't very solid and you'd get a lot of vibrations and rattles if you put all that stuff in it.
     
  3. KK6PD

    KK6PD _ . _ . / _ _ . _

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    Well, lets clarify WATTS! Are they measuring R.M.S., I.H.F. there many "Standards", RMS is the standard we look at when purchasing and using our audio amplifiers.
    There are no similar loudspeaker power handling measurement methods in the US; the problem is much harder as many loudspeaker systems have very different power handling capacities at different frequencies (e.g., tweeters which handle high frequency signals are physically small and easily damaged, while woofers which handle low frequency signals are larger and more robust) in addition to the previously cited great variation in the power levels inherent in musical signals presented to a loudspeaker.
    For loudspeakers, there is also a thermal and a mechanical aspect to maximum power handling. Not all energy delivered to a loudspeaker is emitted as sound. In fact, most is converted to heat, and that heat must not rise too high or damage will follow. High level signals over a prolonged period can cause thermal damage, some of which will be immediately obvious, but much will have the effect of reducing longevity or performance margin. In addition, loudspeaker components have mechanical limits which can be exceeded by even a very brief power peak; an example is the most common sort of loudspeaker driver, which cannot move in or out more than some limit without mechanical damage.

    So 3000 watts sometimes is really not 3000 watts!

    What is the make and Model of the Amp?
    I would like to check it out!
    I 'll get back to you!
     
  4. Austin lavicka

    Austin lavicka Junior Member

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    I'm looking at getting the LANZAR HTG257. Would the car be able to supply enough energy?
     
  5. KK6PD

    KK6PD _ . _ . / _ _ . _

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    Wow, I am actually impressed.
    Power Specifications - Full Range Channels
    • 2 x 250W RMS @ 8 OHMS
    • 2 x 500W RMS @ 4 OHMS
    • 2 x 1000W Max @ 4 OHMS
    • 1 x 2000W Max @ 4 OHMS Bridged
    • 2 x 650W RMS @ 2 OHMS
    • Electronic Crossover Network
    • Bass Boost Circuit
    • Bridgeable at 4 Ohms
    • 2 Ohm Stereo Stable
    • Nickel RCA Inputs
    • Line Outs for Left and Right Channel
    • Low Pass Filter Controls
    • High Pass Filter Controls
    • Power and Protection LED Indicators
    • Soft Turn-on/Turn-off
    • THD: <0.01%.
    • S/N Ratio: >90dB
    • Channel Separation: >65dB
    • Freq. Response: 10Hz~45KHz
    • HPF Freq. Response: 80KHz
    • LPF Freq. Response: 50Hz-250Hz
    • Subwoofer Level Control
    • Fuse: 40A x 1
    • Dimensions: 12.99''(L) x 2.24''(H) x 8.81''(W)
    • Sold as : Unit
    No
    Fan Cooled
    No
    Fuse Rating
    40A x 1

    and this sells for ...$70.00?????

    This is their spec sheet that I cut and pasted It's impressive as hell, but list price $189Retail, and first Internet hit $70....
    I would say give it a try, but be sure not to overdrive its inputs. Failure to heed this results in Distortion, which if too great will kill the amp, and quite possibly the speaker.
    I personally am a bit leery, but on paper it's an amp that should work quite well for you!
    Keep us posted on how this turns out!
    You have piqued my interest!
     
  6. Austin lavicka

    Austin lavicka Junior Member

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    I will definitely keep you guys updated! One more question! Can I hook up the amp to the battery in the trunk? Wouldn't ever use the amp when the car is off. I want to do the least amount of wiring/ modding possible.
     
  7. Austin lavicka

    Austin lavicka Junior Member

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    Would it supply enough power to the amp?
     
  8. KK6PD

    KK6PD _ . _ . / _ _ . _

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    Well first off, yes hook it to the battery, both Positive + and Negative -! It's moot, when the car starts the car will put 13.8 volts on those terminals. Adding 40 amps draw to that circuit might not be a good thing, but unless you are going to run multiple amps, and you enjoy deafness and the drip of blood from your ears, I doubt you ever will hit that 40 Amp draw point. The Prius 12 v power system was designed to maintain a standby mode for the car so you can fire it up with a button push. The computers boot and sync, and the car then generates the 13.8 for lights, charging the 12 v battery. Plus all the factory add on's, even I wonder how a long key down with my 2 way radio at full power, it draws 12 amps! That in itself is quite a bit, so far so good!! In any other car or truck, I would not hesitate to add a second 12 v battery, for Amperage! The Prius, I believe the 100 Amp fusible like will be the one to let go say if you are driving up a steep hill and A/C is cranked up, headlights on, and then the 40Amp Power Amp fires up...Poof???
    It's possible.
    Will it happen to you, probably not.
    Just a thought to keep in the back of your mind!
    Pics when yer done please!!