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Not impressed with side jacking points on G3

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by Much More Better, Mar 21, 2010.

  1. Much More Better

    Much More Better Active Member

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    I am referring to the 4 jacking points on the framerail, on the sides of the car, between the wheels. The steel is straight, and doesn't feel overly thick. My reservation is not that they won't support the weight of the car while lifting only one wheel at the time, but rather, the repeated jacking may allow rust and corrosion due to metal to metal contact.

    So I finally scored a low profile alum floor jack with a rubber pad. I placed a scrap piece of maple with a groove cut in it to go between the jack and the metal. I practiced a few times and the paint did come off a bit. I also tried the bare rubber pad of the jack itself, but because the jacking points are thin, it almost cuts the rubber pad. Finally, I settled on a hockey puck.

    In comparison, my wife's Acura has much sturdier jacking points. The metal is folded into a butt joint (a small "L") so the contact point against the jack is much wider than the relative knife-edge on the Prius.

    The alternate jacking points in the center of the car, front and back, lifts the an entire end at a time. However, I would want to support the car with jackstands under the side jack points, which still leaves me with metal to metal contact.

    It's a small thing and it wouldn't have costed Toyota anything to fold the steel into something thicker. This would allow winter swaps and wheel rotations with little to no risk of damage to the car.
     
  2. walterm

    walterm Active Member

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    I found these to be quite useful - they're like hockey pucks but designed exactly to be used between a jack and the jacking points:

    New Page 1 protech jack pads

    They also make metal covers for jackstands to avoid the metal-to-metal contact:
    http://www.protechproducts.net/jackstandpads.htm jackstand pads
     
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  3. Much More Better

    Much More Better Active Member

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    I have come across those pads in my research for a floor jack. However, the contact points of the car against the pads are not consistent in sturdiness. On inner side of the pinch weld, it feels solid. On the outer side, the rubber jackpad would push up against the plastic mounts of the side skirts. If I push hard with my thumb, there is some give and I'm afraid to load it there. I suppose if I cut two of four supports lower, then the taller ones would be load-bearing on the inside of the pinch weld.


    However, those jackstand pads are promising. Thanks!
     
  4. spiderman

    spiderman wretched

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    Well lets see here... if the Prius is like my 97 Camry, the jack that comes with the car does not rest on the seam but has a slot where the seam fits into. The jack actually rests against the wide spot on the body.
    Now I have not had to jack my Prius up yet with its jack so I don't know if that is true or not. I have used the two center jack points with my floor jack though. That is the way to go.
     
  5. Tom183

    Tom183 New Member

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    Yep, use the front/rear center lift points (depicted in the manual) with a floor jack.

    The corner locations are designed for the spare tire jack.
     
  6. Much More Better

    Much More Better Active Member

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    The Prius' supplied scissor jack is very much the same, sitting not the pinch weld.

    I think I'll try the center jacking points. I'm just removing the wheels with an impact wrench, so it's not like I'm torquing the bolts while it's in the air. So even without jackstands, it should be stable enough. I won't crawl under the car or torque bolts back on while jacked up.
     
  7. ScottG10

    ScottG10 Member

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    I used my floor jack to lift at those points and found them to be very strong. The metal doesnt move or distort at all and the chassis is so rigid that I lifted the whole side of the car. I think it's very well built.
     
  8. Tom183

    Tom183 New Member

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    Yeah, the first time I jacked my car I used the corners (didn't know about the center lift points because they're in a different section of the manual, for some strange reason), and they're plenty solid. And I guess that addresses the concerns about rust also - a few scratches would take a long time to rust through steel which is that thick.