RED Triangle light on (PS) off

hi all! the other day, my red triangle light came on! and the PS light came on the square screen and my power steering is in the dumps (doesn't work).

where would be the first place to check? could it possibly be the accessory belt that came off/broke? is it hard to access/replace that? any instructions/DIY?

or could it be anything else i need to look into?

thank you for your help!!

Check for DTC's using a scanner, such as at Toyota or some auto parts stores. (You can get a basic scanner for less than Toyota's diagnostic fee.) Post what you find back here. It could be the steering ECU, the PS motor, the torque sensor, wiring...

okay, cool i will do that... i know autozone usually have a free scan check, would that work?

Yes, it's a good possibility, from what I hear.

I do not think the Autozone scanners can read the Prius specific DTC's but it is worth a try. My guess is that you will need to take it to a Toyota dealer and have the DTC's read. If you do, post on here to get help with analyzing.

okay i took it to a regular shop and their computer said, something about the power steering relay or related...
i took it to toyota STEALERSHIP today and they said it was the entire power steering ECU that was bad. and it was going to cost $1500+ to fix??? and the worse thing is it's not covered under the extra warranty i have/bought!!! bastards

An ECU from a breakers would be much cheaper and are easy to fit (being plug in) also check out Ebay. The only thing you would need to get done would be a "zero point calibration" some alignment shops can do this.

i just looked up Power Steering ECU for the 2007 prius and they are going for $60-75!?! $1500 for parts and labor??? wow...
how complex/hard is it to do the job? i'm sure i'd have to take the whole dash out? is it even something i can attempt to do with personal tools and in garage?
you mentioned i'd have to get a zero point calibration? what and why is that needed? my prius points and tracks pretty straight right now even with the loss of power steering..
thanks for all feedbacks!

The zero point calibration is basically so that the ECU knows when the steering is in the strait ahead position and does not try to power assist the steering in one direction or the other or give more assist in one direction.

I will try to find where the ECU is located and post. I do not think from memory it is difficult to change.

John

Power steering ECU position see attacthed.

Zero point calibration is not a long job about 15mins but does require computer equipment, but should not cost to much especially if you can find an independent shop to do it.

If replace the ECU yourself do a search on dash tear down this should help.

John.

thanks guys! i'll have this done soon enough...
would i need to essentially take the entire dash out to get to it/work on it?

they said, if i kept driving the car wouldn't work soon... is that true or BS? i mean i don't have power steering but that's about it... it's 100-110 heat in vegas so the gas mileage/battery has lost a lot of efficiency (40 mpg ish vs. 50 in the winter)

BS!!!!

okay they said the code read

C1554 and found the power steering ECU shorted..

how hard is it to replace this yourself??? do i need to unplug the 12v battery before doing this?
thx!

The steering ECU is some what deep in the dash above the steering shaft, and is a plug in unit, but the dash on the Prius is easy to dismantle compared to most cars. I would disconnect the 12v battery before dismantling.

Yes, you should disconnect the 12V battery prior to removing any ECU. This is especially important since you will be working in the dashboard area as an additional safety precaution considering the SRS system located in the steering wheel hub and passenger-side dash.

Although I have not done this myself, I don't think the removal/replacement task will be particularly difficult once you have removed the two left ventilation ducts and the black plastic dashboard pieces below and above the steering column for access.

I looked up c1554 in prius service manual--- relay voltage source or eps fuse blown--- and states relays are built into ecu...
However your c1554 code interpeted by toyota prius tech says c1554 = shorted ecu.....
This (ecu shorted) suggests that the 50 amp eps fuse is blown......This fuse is not easily replaced as it is one of manny high power
fuses stamped out of a single piece of metal composing many fuses...
If this 50 amp fuse is blown its suggests problem could very well be the power steering electric motor is bad and is the only component
capable of of blowing a 50 amp fuse... in my opinion...

The fuse is located under the hood on drivers side.. but does not look like any fuse you ever saw... look for two white plastic strips
just below or in front of red jumper start cover.... these two white plastic strips have a clear plastic viewing sheet on top to view
multipul high power fuses all stamped from single strip of sheet metal... look at diagram for 50Amp eps location. The actual fuse
part looks like a curly cue strip about 1/16 inch thick and 1/8 wide? which looks crimped to wire on one end...

Anyway electric ps motor is a brush comutator type in gen II prius. The brushes will eventually wear down and pull high current at
which time may also blow ecu relays? These brushes are usually replaceable and most motors.. but I don't know if the prius ps motor
brushes are replaceable or it the motor is just disposable.....

If 50 amp eps fuse is not blown its probably just ecu .... to replace 50 amp fuse looks like a major job...If 50 amp fuse is blown
the area backed by white plastic strip will be black and curley cue strip of metal will be burnt into (open) ...

Let us know if 50amp eps fuse appears to be good or not....

Gen III ps motor is not a brush type but brushless type....

wow i haven't fixed my power steering problem yet but just came back and read this last post, thanks! i will check the fuse box again tomorrow and see if the 50 amp fuse is blown or not... so you're saying it is easier to replace the power steering ecu inside the dash than to replace the 50 amp fuse??

Yes, if damaged, the fusible link assembly within the main relay/fuse box will not be easy to change as I believe it is necessary to raise up that box for access to the underside.

In my experience brush wear creates an *open* circuit condition, and the motor usually just stops, as it does, for example, in the Prius blower motor. I don't know if the steering motor is the same type.