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RPM slow to return to idle

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by BeakerTX, Aug 16, 2014.

  1. BeakerTX

    BeakerTX Junior Member

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    Anyone have input or experience with the following problem? When decelerating from high rpm (taking my foot off the gas pedal), the engine is slow to return to idle rpm. Normally, when taking the foot off the gas pedal, the rpms lower immediately. I have notice lately and more often that the rpms can take up to 5 seconds to lower to idle rpms. My first thought is the throttle is sticking, but the car does not continue to accelerate even though the rpms remain high. The closest analogy I can think of is holding the gas pedal down and clutch in if it were a manual car. Seems to happen in hotter weather and when the car is warmed up.

    It doesn't happen all the time, and might take a while for a shop to diagnose. Trying to get them a starting point before bringing it in. I have 2k miles left on my extended warranty (75k).

    Finally, my apologies if the solution is buried in another post. Searched for an hour and nothing came up.

    Thanks!
     
  2. GrumpyCabbie

    GrumpyCabbie Senior Member

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    It could be very normal. You say it happens most when the car is warmed up and in hot weather. What setting do you have the a/c on? Do you have it on LO and run at a high level on Recirc by any chance?

    Is the vent on the rear seat blocked when rev issue occurs?
     
  3. BeakerTX

    BeakerTX Junior Member

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    Thanks for the reply.

    The reason I shy away from it being normal is this is just now creeping up after owning the car for 5 years. Bought new in fall 2009. Been in the same south Texas climate the entire time. Nothing unique thermally about this summer. I think the heat exacerbates the problem, but no the cause.

    The AC is always running (set to 74), and almost always recirc. The rear vents are not blocked.
     
  4. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    how's your 12 volt battery?
     
  5. BeakerTX

    BeakerTX Junior Member

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    Was ok at the last checkup about a month ago. Replaced only once in 72500 mi.

    Ignorant (on my end) question: how is the battery linked to the rpm issue?


    iPhone ?
     
  6. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    the battery is linked to almost everything. i would test it just in case. do it in the morning before driving. get a digital voltmeter and check at the battery posts.
     
  7. BeakerTX

    BeakerTX Junior Member

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    12.64 V. Hasn't been driven all day. No load tester at home. Load test last month was normal, and the problem started before that, though less often.


    iPhone ?
     
  8. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    okay, any relevance to hybrid battery level when it happens?
     
  9. BeakerTX

    BeakerTX Junior Member

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    Nope. No trend there. Been searching for something predictable indicator, and heat is as close as I have gotten.


    iPad ? HD
     
  10. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    air filter?
     
  11. BeakerTX

    BeakerTX Junior Member

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    Changed per normal scheduled maintenance.


    iPad ? HD
     
  12. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    i don't think i've heard of this issue before. i wonder if there might be any codes stored?
     
  13. BeakerTX

    BeakerTX Junior Member

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    I've got a CarMD reader but haven't checked it since the check engine light has not lit up. Worth a shot. May try it tomorrow.


    iPad ? HD
     
  14. A617

    A617 Member

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    I have that come onces in a while but usually occurs when after a brisk acceleration when the traction battery is around 2-3 bars or when ice is in the process of charging the traction battery.
    And it feels like the engine is disengaged from the drive (free spinning) and the rpm leisurely comes down.
     
    #14 A617, Aug 17, 2014
    Last edited: Aug 17, 2014
  15. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    that's what i was thinking.
     
  16. HTMLSpinnr

    HTMLSpinnr Super Moderator
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    I find this happens when the battery is very hot, or is at a "full" charge. Normally, the generator slows the engine quickly and converts the momentum into electricity into the battery, however if the battery ECU is protecting the battery from accepting a charge (in a high-temperature state), the engine is allowed to spin down more freely.
     
  17. GrumpyCabbie

    GrumpyCabbie Senior Member

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    I'm thinking about an overheating HV battery too. The OP says they keep the a/c on always (at 74f/23c) in the Texas heat and that the setting is at RECIRC all the time.

    Now I'm sure I've read that by not allowing air to flow through the car it doesn't flow through the HV battery. If the battery is working overtime to cool the car in hot Texas heat and the cold air inside isn't flowing through the battery, then it'll just get hotter and hotter and eventually the car switches to the engine more to protect the cooking battery.

    If the Op always does this (as they say they do) then the poor old HV battery is getting hit hard, both sitting in the heat when parked and then working overtime when it isn't.

    I wonder if the Op should select Auto and let the car adjust between Recirc and flowing air as it sees fit, though I do wonder if the damage is now done.
     
  18. Tande

    Tande Active Member

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    It's my understanding......the H/V batt. has it's own cooling fan which "Pulls" air from the passenger cab interior......& even when in the "Recirc." mode, some outside air is still allowed to enter the cab interior.......with air/cond. operating, this scenario should supply "Cool" air to the H/V batt.......am I wrong?.......:confused:
     
  19. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    patrick wong keeps his on recirq all the time in arizona.
     
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  20. DoubleDAZ

    DoubleDAZ Senior Member

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    I think some say that setting it to Recirc pulls air from the inside and this minimizes the amount of air that finds its way to the rear seat vent whereas setting it to pull outside air in and pass it through forces more air to seek out the vent to escape. Some also say the AC has to work harder to cool the outside air vs cooling the already cooled air that's being recirculated. My thought is to use Recirc as long as needed to cool the car down and then use pass-through. If you set Auto to say, 74 degrees, then once the cabin is cooled, the air going to the vent should be 74 whether it's recirculated or outside air. However, since the AC is electrical, I don't know how much the "extra" work hurts.
     
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