Should I or should I not?

That seems very expensive. Which brakes were bad? Front or Rear? Since the Prius mostly uses electronic braking, it's rare to need brakes under 100k miles

 

You should get your brake work recommendation in writing with the measurements and such......then get a second opinion and see what happens. I think you may just be at a desperate dealer trying to make some money off you

 

if you have never done a transaxle fluid change, it isn't a bad idea at 70k to do it. Take a good look at the rotors and see if they are scored. If they look nice and smooth still, you don't need new rotors

 

What is your odometer reading?

 

yes that's the same. It should not have been more than $150 though.....that's already the very high end of the prices

$90 is very reasonable for a dealer to do the transmission fluid chnge. Synthetic oil change for under $45 wow.

no wonder they change $500+ for rear brakes. to make up the money they didn't make LOL

our regular member "Bisco" is from MA, he'll respond with a good option in your area

 

New rear pads have a thickness of 9.5 mm while the replacement spec is at 1.0 mm. Hence if the measurements are accurate, you still have ~25K miles that you could drive prior to replacing the rear pads.

However it would be unusual for your rear pads to wear so much - unless you are in the habit of driving the car with the parking brake engaged, and I suggest you either look at the pad thickness yourself or secure a second opinion.

There is nothing wrong with having the transaxle fluid drained and replaced. A "flush" is not required.

 

Actually?
The dealer's labor rates seem to be fairly reasonable.
$115/hr may sound like plumber or doctor rates, but I'm thinking that the industry average is probably closer to a buck fifty - with 0.5 hour granularity.
Remember.....this is a loaded rate.
The person swinging the wrench certainly isn't making three figures an hour!

I don't have a problem with good wrenches making a good wage.
Anybody who has ever spent more than an hour with their feet sticking out from under a car will probably readily agree.

The transmission flush (if it was done) was reasonably priced, and it's not a bad idea to get this service done every 60,000 miles or so despite the fact that it's not on the schedule of maintenance.
As Patrick pointed out above, your brakes are well within specs and if the rotors are in good shape you're good to go for a few more miles.
The OP is in Boston, so I'm not surprised that the brakes are prematurely wearing since Bostonians are the only people on the planet that are collectively worse drivers than left-coasters, and Bastan is a much harsher environment for brakes even without the driver.
I wouldn't even get a second opinion on the brakes
Just continue using the horn instead of the brakes like everybody else in big cities.

Coolant flush????
People haven't flushed coolant systems in decades.
I'm thinking that they're trying to get you to replace the coolant....in......what?
The inverter or the radiator?
Maybe neither.
Maybe they want to replace the cash in your wallet with a repair ticket.

If you insist on using this dealership to maintain your car, then I would have a frank discussion with the service manager about some of their practices, and I would become familiar with your car's schedule of maintenance and get second opinions on anything that these guys want to do that's not routine maintenance.

I'm surprised that they didn't try the throttle body cleaning scam on you.


Good Luck!

 

!!!

 

If it was done right and was not too expensive ... it is s good service ... but if they even mentioned FLUSH and COMPUTER HOOKUP then they did cheat you .... for the prius BY TOYOTA manual it is a drain and refill operation there is no sensor or anything the computer can even monitor ... (in some other toyota cars maybe I do not know)

 

The transaxle fluid change is timely, even overdue, even though Toyota makes no mention of it. And their price was reasonable. It's not a "flush", and your invoice doesn't describe it as a flush. All good.

If your brake pads are at 3 mm remaining, roughly all four corners, I wouldn't wait too long. That last 3 mm tends to go faster, and it seems to me is more stressful on the rotors, there's less mass to dissipate heat, and if pads are going to start coming apart, it's in those last few mm's. And a four corner brake job WITH new rotors for that $ seems reasonable.

Personally, I'd do it myself, for maybe $200 worth of pads, use the OEM pads, and if at all possible reuse the rotors: they tend to be replaced WAY too often.

It's very easy to screw up the rear brakes, leave them dragging due to misassembly. If they're competent this won't happen, but I'd strongly recommend that you get the rear wheels checked for drag, post brake job.

 

Looking at his dealer report, it looks the front pads are at 6mm, just the rear pads are "low". The quote has to be rear pads and rotors for $500+

 

Oh right, I can't see.

 

i would get a second opinion on the brakes, and have them show you while inspecting. try another dealer, or the good news garage in cambridge. no need for any coolant changes yet. the tranny fluid was a good idea. check your o/m for recommended maintenance.

 

My Opinion is to go factory. I know they cost more but I believe it to be a worthwhile investment. I have a Suzuki as well and I put aftermarkets on there and had nothing but trouble, rubbing sounds, and they wore out much faster and multiple times. Once I went back to the factory ones I had no more problems. Even though the aftermarket ones had lifetime replacement it doesnt cover your time, the labor, and potential damage to the rotors. Also if there is no viable damage on the rotors you still have pads so as long as you have no rubbing or scraping sounds the rotors are probably fine. As long as there are no serious groves or wear in them your probably ok. Seems to be a favorite "push" item amongst mechanics

 

I recently changed the front brake pads on my 2005 with 175k miles on it. OEM parts from the (online) dealer for $50 and my mechanic $50. Total $100 with a free tire rotation