Source for Gen1 compressor clutch?

The 1.5L Echo has the same engine block. There may be others but those two are as similar as possible to find.

Bob Wilson

 

Early Scions too.

Bob Wilson

 

I'm confused - does searching for 88410-47030 or 88410-47040 not find you anything? Or do you just mean the local dealer doesn't have one in stock?

I'm not sure why both part numbers are listed ... I'd expect to see different VIN ranges or something to choose one or the other but I don't. Might have to double-check with a dealer.

The rotor, stator (magnet), and hub subassemblies are also separately listed, so in principle you could just swap the rotor and hub if the surfaces were worn but the magnet's ok, though it doesn't look like that would save much.

Of the online Toyota dealers, Village Toyota Parts might not be the very cheapest, but I'm trying to send more business their way since discovering their search results don't hide the part numbers, which is a strong selling point in my view.

-Chap

 

Well, won't Village (or any of the other online dealers) sell you the clutch if you order it? I'm still confused.

And what makes you say the clutch is a weak link? So far in 13 years and 218k miles mine has needed a $1.21 shim adjustment, once that I know of. If it ever reaches the point where the spec travel can't be achieved even with no shim, I'm guessing that'll be somewhere around the 400k mile mark. How durable do you want it to be?

Or, when you say your friction surface is gone, were you expecting to see anything besides ground metal? That's all it is....

-Chap

 

Yeah, they always mill each other into weird, nonflat shapes over time. The thing is, those weird nonflat shapes still fit each other perfectly, because milling each other was how they got that way. They even have a greater contact surface area now than they did when they were flat. That does, though, make it hard to measure the clearance using a straight feeler gauge.

The best way to measure the clearance is to rest a dial indicator tip on the pressure plate, then apply voltage to the magnet and read the dial for how far the plate traveled. That will give you a good reading no matter how weirdly the surfaces are shaped.

If you haven't measured the thickness of the one washer that was in there, don't think you are past the adjustment range yet. In my experience and some others', what is in there originally is a lot thicker than the ones that come in the $1.21 adjusting shim kit. The three you get in the kit are 0.1, 0.3, and 0.5 mm.

If you measure the pressure-plate travel with the old shim washer, take the old washer out and measure its thickness ... add 0.5 mm to the old washer thickness and subtract the old plate travel. The result is the new shim thickness you want. If you can combine any one, two, or three of 0.1, 0.3, 0.5 mm shims to make that thickness (within 0.15 mm either side), then reassemble with that combination out of the shim kit and you're back in business. (In my case, there were two combinations that would work, one within 0.15 mm on the tight side and one within 0.15 mm loose. I ended up going with the loose one because the tight one did slightly drag.)

I would not bother trying to mill the faces. That will only remove material unnecessarily, and bring you closer to the day when it really is too worn to re-shim.

-Chap

 

If want to buy a clutch but don't see one on eBay you can contact the sellers who have posted AC compressors and mention you are in the market. They will likely post one for you or (more likely) offer to sell you one directly.

I recently respaced a clutch I thought was toast and got it back to working order. It took some fiddling with paper-thin washers, but I got it working.

 

Glad you'll give it a try. One thing I forgot to mention is that if you go to measure the "before" pressure plate travel with a dial indicator and the gap is waay too big, the magnetic field may be so weak at that distance that the plate doesn't even pull all the way in when you put volts on the coil. It might just lean a little bit, and on your dial it'll look like a ridiculously small travel.

If that happens, just reach up and give the plate a nudge while the magnet is on, and it will pull the rest of the way in with a solid clack, and then the travel you read off the dial will be accurate.

If you go to the dealer and blow a buck and a quarter on the shim kit, and when you work out the combination you need it doesn't use all three, just stash the rest in a safe place. That way when 2026 rolls around and you need to do this again, it'll take you 10 minutes and zero dollars because all you'll be doing is choosing a different combination of shims.

-Chap

 

I'm sure it won't be long before some marketing MBA type tells us what we really need is a fresh innovative re-envisioning of addition and subtraction. But for this week I guess we're still safe.

-Chap

Edit: seriously, are you sure they're the same, and not reversed? The thicker compressor shim makes your clearance bigger; the thicker lifter (any valve train I've seen anyway) makes the clearance smaller.

 

Have you contacted Adopt-a-Part in Colorado?
5030 York St, Denver, CO 80216
Phone 303- 296-2211

Eric Sumpter and his salvage yard crew are experts on used parts for the Gen 1 Prius.

 

Hooray for eBay! Glad you found one.