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Stator Bad?

Discussion in 'Generation 1 Prius Discussion' started by VOR, Aug 27, 2015.

  1. VOR

    VOR Junior Member

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    Okay so I finally got a chance to take the old Gen 1 for a drive with Torque and a Bluetooth OBDII attached (after the car sat idle for several months). For your reference, my original thread with some suspicions about what I thought the problem was is in the link below. However, as it is mostly about getting Torque to work I thought a new thread specific to the more likely issue was appropriate (P3120).

    Trying to Diagnose Problem(s) With Gen1 | PriusChat

    I had thought for a while that it might be an issue with the spark plugs or the PCV valve due to some rough running/idle of the engine whenever the "Triangle of Doom" appeared but with a code of P3120 now in hand I started to suspect the stator (I assume if MG2 is out of wack it could cause issues with how the engine runs?).

    So with my son monitoring the Torque MG2 & MG1 Temperature readings we took the Prius for a short drive. I seem to recall that Torque is supposed to be able to log the readings but I couldn't get it to work right (any help on this would be appreciated) so we just observed the temps.

    Both MG2 and MG1 started out a couple of degrees Celsius from each other (still need to set it up to convert the units to Fahrenheit).

    However, not too far down the road (maybe just a few minutes into the drive) the temp of MG2 started climbing rapidly.

    Max Temps We Saw: MG2 = 147 C, MG1 = 74 F

    Does this mean drastic temperature difference pretty much guarantee that the MG2 Stator is fried/toast and should be replaced or do I need to keep diagnosing?

    Additional Note: There is this high pitched whine when you let the car cost. The sound is especially noticeable when dropping from say 55 MPH to around 48 or 49 MPH. It has made this noise every since we bought the car so I hoped/assumed this was normal. However, my son's Prius (2006) doesn't ever make this noise. Is this sound normal for Gen1 or is it related to my issue (P3120)?

    Other Tests I'm Considering:
    * Test With a Megohmmeter:
    I don't have one of these and they seem to be pretty expensive ($500+ for Fluke). I found one that will output up to 1000 volts and is only about $50.00 but I'm not sure it's good enough for my purposes (any advice/recommendations appreciated).


    * Finger Test The Transmission Fluid
    I know it's supposed to smell burnt. But how obvious is this? I've never smelled this fluid before so I'm not sure what "normal" should smell like.


    Any advice and/or comments on any of the above is greatly appreciated!


    Sincerely,
    Vance
     
    #1 VOR, Aug 27, 2015
    Last edited: Aug 27, 2015
  2. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    MG2 stator has a short. It won't get any better:
    • replace transaxle from a salvage
    • replace MG2 stator from Toyota or Dorman
    Sorry for the bad news but this is what is going on.

    Bob Wilson
     
  3. VOR

    VOR Junior Member

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    Just to clarify are you saying there are actually two issues?
    1. Bad Transaxle
    AND
    2. Bad Stator

    Or are you saying that these two symptoms: high pitched whine AND MG2 = 147 C, MG1 = 74 C (SORRY I meant degrees C NOT F) are both symptoms that mean there is a Bad Stator?

    Thanks Again,
    Vance
     
  4. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    MG1 (motor generator 1), MG2, and the power split device are part of the the transmission. The failed stator is part of MG2 with shorted windings. As the rotor spins, the shorted windings absorb part of the mechanical energy and converts it to heat. It is the mechanical energy loss that causes the speed related hum.
    [​IMG]
    MG1 and MG2 are part of the variable speed mechanism. It and the power split device (PSD) are the shifter and torque converter found in a traditional automatic transmission. There are some clever technical details we can go over but you could help us with a technical point.

    The frequency of the hum is a function of speed. We need audio recordings, ~10 seconds, at two or three different speeds, 30, 40, 50 mph. With two, we can map the frequency as a function of speed. With three, we can map the amplitude, the loudness. I can then make a playback file that folks in the future can use to compare the tone to the car.

    Bob Wilson
     
    #4 bwilson4web, Aug 28, 2015
    Last edited: Aug 28, 2015
  5. VOR

    VOR Junior Member

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    Hi Bob,
    Excellent diagram and explanation of how the Prius hybrid system works. That really helps explain the whine. When I test drove the car I figured that whining noise might not be normal. Most people would probably cry at this point but I actually got the car for less than $2500.00 so if I can fix it economically enough I'll still be okay. First Gens in good working order go for around 4-6k in my neck of the woods.

    So, can this be fixed just by replacing the stator or is there more extensive damage than that? How likely is it that the shorting stator caused any damage to other parts of the transaxle system?

    As for the recording of the sound what would you need for quality. For example, someone holding a cell phone that was recording the whine and someone calling out speeds?

    Thanks Again,
    Vance
     
  6. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    Like all things, it depends. This is one example I had a chance to see:
    [​IMG]
    The heat would have left a layer of varnish over all interior parts including the 'silent chain.' Replacement with a salvage would be recommended. However, there are threads about replacing the MG2 stator in the car (use search function.)

    MG2 is located under the power inverter and the bottom is the 12V DC-to-DC converter. This particular car also had a bad 12V inverter BUT the actual failure mechanism was arcing in the power MOSFETs. Regardless, if the car runs and your 12V battery doesn't require a jump, the rest is probably OK.

    Swapping the transaxle also means you can look at the 'torque limiter', a clutch plate bolted on the engine. They seldom go bad unless there is an oil leak in the area. However, good idea to check with the transmission out.

    BTW, there are several independent shop owners who hang here and I would defer to their recommendations.

    Yes but it would work best if the cell phone were put against one part of the car between each speed test. The mechanical touch point should pickup the MG2 noise better than 'free air.' But you'd probably need to take it off to hear the speed call out. Experiment as you're in a new area.

    Now if you had a nice tall hill you could coast down with the engine off, the transmission noise would be more distinct BUT this is a sick car. Around the block or within close range of your repair area makes most sense.

    WARNING DANGEROUS LOADS
    1. Block rear wheels so car can not move.
    2. Start car and shift into "N"
    3. Turn car off so engine and all power is as much off as possible
    4. Jack up driver-side, front tire, put a jack-stand in, set on jack-stand
    5. Grab the tire and rotate . . . you should feel the pulses as the MG2 rotor spins
    6. Count the pulses per rotation (should be ~3.8 to 1 if my memory is right)
    The other front tire on the ground will leave only the rotor and the tire in the air able to move. My memory is there is 3.8 to 1 gear ratio from MG2 to the differential. I just don't know if there is a ratio on the differential gear when one leg is fixed. I suspect it is one-to-one but . . .

    Ok, now that the driver side is raised, swap the transaxle. During the removal, take pictures frequently so reassembly will be easier. Then put together a 'How to' guide and post it here. <GRINS>

    Bob Wilson