Update: Focal/JL Audio Upgrade + Basslink II

I post very infrequently as our kind membership has all the answers I'm looking for. I spent 10 hours with a senior CC installer friend of mine upgrading my standard audio with Focal 165KP components up front and 165CV1 units in the rear. The audio out from the head unit is routed through an Audio Control LC-6 to a JL Audio 300/4 amp. The controller and amp are mounted on the hidden storage bin with power provided directly from the battery through a side mounted fuse block.

In short, the result was supurb. I chose the 165KP as the sound was uniformly precise and clear throughout its range. JL Audio's amp was even as well (Alpine was high end focused). I know there are many great audio upgrades our membership enjoy so I'm just another happy driver. A couple of points for those looking at my particular components.

1. When you drill out the stock speakers, you'll first install a 1/2 inch thick mounting spacer to assure clearance from the glass. Note the front glass is curved on the bottom, which helps. We made the spacers out of the high density wood product that we seal painted. The 165KPs do clear on the front and back side so you have adequate clearance from the glass and door panel. If the higher power K2P units are considered, I'd suggest a 3/4" spacer as I did note some free room behind the front panel. Use adhesive foam around the speaker rims so the fit is very snug when you screw the units to the spacer.

2. The TN-52 tweeters are much larger than stock. Remove them from their can, dremel out the existing ring and clips, press fit the tweeters and use dacron batting to stuff in the voids to ensure the unit will not shift.

3. Since the tweeters are in an optimal position, I found setting the crossover to -3 gave the correct balance to the door units. The crossover units fit nicely behind the side panels just forward of the door opening.

4. The inner spacer diameter is different between the two speaker types. Their mounting ring makes a great template.

5. The LC-6 has a great Channel 3 output section perfect for a powered subwoofer solution if you're interested.

6. Spending time and extra wire to bundle and route up through the bottom of the tray and underneath the LC-6 and amp makes for a clean install. Extra length also makes it easy to lift the whole tray out and forward to assure access to the spare tire.

7. The LC-6 has a number of features which makes audio operation a no brainer such as remote power activation so there isn't a battery drain. Everything powers up when you turn the head unit on. It also allowed us to "dial in" the low level RCA output to the amplifier input so we avoid distortion. It can take a high level input up to 400 watts so it's plenty beefy in that area.

7. The entire system is invisible, hence less likely to attract theft.

Great project, great result. Many thanks to the previous posters who gave me great insight that helped me make my own decision... comfortably.

Warm regards, CAPT Seabee

 

I added a Basslink II over the weekend to "round out" the low end. I wanted an installation where I didn't have to drill visible holes and also have the ability to remove the subwoofer if I needed the space for cargo.

I mounted the Basslink to a laminated 16x16 shelving board ($5 from Lowes) and used velcro on the bottom to keep the unit in place on the carpet. All in all the total upgrade sounds just right.

I have the unit pulled forward in the picture so the full install can be seen but normally the Basslink sits in the rear right area on the carpet.

Picture attached:

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