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Transaxle replacement thread: Orange4boy's 2003 Prius

Discussion in 'Generation 1 Prius Discussion' started by orange4boy, Nov 14, 2009.

  1. orange4boy

    orange4boy Member

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    Just about to start the replacement of the toast transaxle on my 2003. I bought it like this for a song and now I have to do the dance. It was run dry from a slow leak and I have found a low mileage replacement in Edmonton which should arrive Monday or Tuesday.

    Car has about 104k miles / 168000 km and is in very good shape otherwise.

    The search for the transaxle is documented in: http://priuschat.com/forums/generation-1-prius-discussion/71157-how-choose-good-used-transaxle-ideas.html

    Pics to come...
     
    1 person likes this.
  2. orange4boy

    orange4boy Member

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    Picked up the replacement transaxle from my friend's studio and it seems as advertised. The oil is bright red and clean and thick. There isn't a spot of a leak anywhere. The cables are quite clean with just a bit of dust on them. All the bolts have the original paint marks on them and have never been removed. There is some dirt on the top and it's a bit corroded, but it presumably has been sitting on a shelf at the wreckers for a few years. The input shaft spins smoothly.

    The only damage I could find was a cracked plastic connector and a few scratches on the inner surface of the output shaft bearing. Not a critical area. I can hopefully swap the cracked connector with one from the original unit.

    I have to get it into the shop now to clean it up, drain the rest of the oil, clean the pan, fill it with new oil, replace the shaft seals? (they seem almost new), and inspect it as best I can.

    Overall pic with a blot of the oil:

    [​IMG]

    output shaft bearing inner surface scratches:

    [​IMG]

    Another shot of the oil and the good condition of the shaft seal:

    [​IMG]
     
  3. orange4boy

    orange4boy Member

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    Major progress today. After working on it all day, the transaxle is ready to drop. Too beat to post pics. Will have to wait till tomorrow.

    The trickiest bits so far were the harness connectors to the power steering motor. (They are buried behind and below the brake distribution box) and the motor leads to MG1 which I had to unbolt from the transaxle because the last dimwit mechanic to work on it tightened the torx bolts on the inverter so tight, I bent/twisted the torx bit trying to remove it. Will have to try heat tomorrow.
     
  4. SageBrush

    SageBrush Senior Member

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    I keep coming back to PC for threads like this one. Thank you!
    Orange4boy, how are you managing the transaxle weight ? I seem to remember photographs from Art's automotive showing one guy picking the transaxle up into place, and a second guy bolting it on *quick*
     
  5. tomfreed

    tomfreed New Member

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    Can you imagine me doing this work 8 times in and out? I did the work so i knew exactly what you are talking about. Best way is to reach from top and remove from there. Do it from the bottom is very hard.

    The tranny you bought looked very dusty to me but if the inside is clean and good that is all matter.
     
  6. tomfreed

    tomfreed New Member

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    You might want to go look at the pictures i sent on the 01 i fixed to see how i remove the tranny out, search under Problem Car in Gen1

    There is no way one can lift the tranny, no way! It is super heavy with those magnet motors inside. I did the tranny 8 times in and out so i knew my stuff.
     
  7. orange4boy

    orange4boy Member

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    Tomfreed,

    Glad to see you are watching. You are the Gen1 master now. You pictures helped a lot, thanks.

    I have a question. How do you remove the axles from the transaxle? There is nothing in my manual for that.

    Yes these buggers are heavy. 300lbs at least. It's all that copper. I have an ATV lift which should work to lift the transaxle out and in. The lift height is not quite enough but I should be able to rig up something to make it work.

    Today I drop it.
     
  8. tomfreed

    tomfreed New Member

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    300lbs???? more like 3000lbs:D I know it is one heavy bugger!!!!!! Use the scissor transmission jack. I got it from Harbor Freight for $49 and i used it 8 times already without failing.

    You know it was frustrated and lonely at a time when this 01 drove me crazy and i did the repair without this forum (did not know yet until i was desparated then i went online searching), without a manual but i did have my scanner. I still fixed it mostly from my mechanic experience previously and common sense. You can do the job yourself!

    Here we go. I assumed you had removed the power steering subassembly and dropped the whole thing out. Now get down there with a prybar and wedge between the tranny and axle then push it out. Rotate it as you push to work it loose. If you do it any other way you are going to pull the CV bearing out of it and you can feel it inside the rubber bellow. You have to drain the tranny fluid and coolant all out too or you will have a big mess. YOu are replacing the tranny so don't worry if you are going to mess up the seal and you will as you pry it out. It is holding in place with a C- clip on the axle groove that slide into the tranny axle slot. Make sure you have a good seal on the replacement one or you will have to pull it out again to fix the fluid leak.

    I recollected the drive side is harder than the passenger side.

    At first it was hard now i can do the transaxle remove and install with my eyes close. When you put it back and ready for the air bleeding for the hybrid portion i will show you a trick to shorten your bleeding time tremendously. The dealer tech. did not even know this; i came up with this way out of frustration and it did work great. The dealer and manual way nearly an hour; my way 20 min or less if you are good.

    Good luck with the swap. I am taking a rest from the 01 repair. It was sold last week for $6300. I still am trying to sell the 03 with higher miles, my veggie Benz and the Civic before my move next month to Fl plus packing to do.
     
  9. orange4boy

    orange4boy Member

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    Pics. In no particular order.
     
  10. orange4boy

    orange4boy Member

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    Do you have to remove the c-clip? Or does it slide through that spiral slot in the bearing race?
     
  11. orange4boy

    orange4boy Member

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    Got the beast out. That is a tight fit.

    Tomfreed, do you gave any tips on getting it out more easily? The ICE motor had to be pried out of the way to make room. How I will get the new one in is a mystery. I may hoist it in from below with a chain hoist mounted above. The ability to swing and rock would be a big help in getting it in.

    Now that it's out I'm not getting the cogging. I can spin the CV joints which spins the input shaft. I think it means that the mg2 is ceased because the cogging was the ICE being rotated by the wheels. I imagine if it was not ceased it would rotate freely so the Ice would be unmoved by wheel rotation in neutral. . Just a guess. Would also explain the lurch when I tried to start the car. It would immediately stop and flash all the warning lights.
     
  12. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    It sounds like the power split device (PSD), the planetary gear is jammed up tight. You may have a good MG1 and MG2 stators (ok, heat stressed but usable) and the PSD has a chunk of something making it into a single part. Alternatively, one or more spider gears may have seized on their shaft. That would do it too.

    If you ever wanted to make a pure EV Prius, take the transaxle apart and weld-up the PSD. Then put in motor controllers for MG1 and MG2. Their cumulative power:

    • ~18 hp MG1 (~14 kW existing traction battery and inverter)
    • ~40 hp MG2 (~30 kW needs something special)
    Then with a bandsaw, convert the engine into a mount for the transaxle, additional batteries; and the additional power electronics. There is one guy who was working on a similar plan but putting the Prius electric transaxle in a first generation, Insight body.

    Bob Wilson
     
  13. orange4boy

    orange4boy Member

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    That sounds like a "fun" project. A bit beyond me at this point. It is a powerful motor for an EV all on it's own. Has anyone figured the efficiency of MG1 and 2? I know that Agni Motors is getting up to 93% on their PMDC but that's apples to oranges. The MGs are 3phase AC right?
     
  14. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    When you get a chance, look for "ORNL/TM-2004/247" "Evaluation of 2004 Toyota Prius Hybrid Electric Drive System" from Oak Ridge National Laboratory, UT-Battelle.

    Bob Wilson
     
  15. orange4boy

    orange4boy Member

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    Got the replacement transaxle out of the van and hoisted up to take off and clean the sump. The newer sump is just dusted lightly with filings and the magnet is a little bump compared with the huge pile on the old one.

    Compare and contrast:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Hopeful puppy is hopeful... Walkies? Walkies? Walkies? How about now? Now? ... Now?... Now?... Walkies now?.. Now? Walkies?

    [​IMG]
     
  16. orange4boy

    orange4boy Member

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    I have a question about the inverter coolant. What is the correct mix for the inverter? I have read that water is a better heat sink than glycol which is why you want a higher water to glycol ratio.

    Bottle gives the following info: 65% -56C 134C boiling point / 50% -37C 109C boiling point. I doubt boiling point is an issue and It very rarely gets blow -15C here.
     
  17. orange4boy

    orange4boy Member

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    Mounted my chain hoist to the joists of the carport yesterday and made a bracket for the tranny. Works great. Did all the work at chest level.

    Done:

    1) Drilled out one MG1 cable attachment cover bolt as it was seized by the overzealous use of an impact drill. I had to remove the wires from the transaxle still in the car during teardown because of this.

    2) Installed MG1 cables in Transaxle and sealed cover with RTV.

    3) Cleaned and replaced oil pan. The sediment was very fine and black. It seemed to be coarser towards the magnet suggesting a good wear in pattern. There was just a sprinkling of bronze glitter.

    4) Cleaned out CV joints. Will re-pack tomorrow with synthetic grease. Stock grease is thin and flows fairly easily.

    5) Swapped brackets and other pits and pieces to new trans.

    To do:

    1) Install new axle seals. They are waiting at the dealer for me to pick up. Probably will have to wait till Tuesday to do it. I might install the Tranny now and the seals later.

    2) Check and grease cat. valve linkage.

    3) Fill tranny with WS.
     
  18. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    Toyota sells a "red" and "pink" coolant. The "pink" is already diluted and I remember someone saying the "red" is diluted 50% with distilled water ... but that is memory.

    I just checked Vol. II of the maintenance manual and it says:
    Bob Wilson
     
  19. tomfreed

    tomfreed New Member

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    C-clip is on axle shaft on its groove. You don't mess with it and you can't anyway. Just do the way i show you it will come out guarantee.

    How many job of tranny had you done for the Prius or is this the first time you remove one?
     
  20. tomfreed

    tomfreed New Member

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    You need to have somebody to help you with the strut tower assembly. Once you pry the axle out of the tranny lift the whole strut assembly and axle out of the car on both side. That will give you clear room to bring the tranny back in.

    That might sound like a lot of work but it is not since you leave the shaft attatches to the axle hub. Believe it or not i did all the work by myself with no help but i am very creative with my repair technique when i am stucked.