Oil Change 2010 Prius - do it yourself

Anyone figure out an easy fix to the stupid plastic rivet things? I was missing one to begin with on that darned plastic cover when I went to do my oil change! Otherwise, I didn't have issues changing any of them in the 35F temp when I did my OC. But, I would prefer something else to secure that plastic cover up. Actually, I just thought of a possible way to tackle it: Nut above, fully threaded bolt, nut below. Does that sound feasible? Obviously, you wouldn't be able to have much thread sitting on the underside of the cover, but I think with some lock-nuts they wouldn't even fall off. Anything that wants to try that option? Or, just get a longer bolt, dremel off the head and you've basically got a threaded piece of steel to use nuts to secure it in place with.

 

I have since learned that silicon in a brand new engine is actually expected and is not abrasive or harmful. So, even if there is no break-in benefit to silicon, there is also no benefit to removing it.
People changing the oil on a brand new car under the justification of an oil analysis showing "elevated" silicon are wasting time and money.
The need to change the oil on new engines very early to clean out metal shavings left inside the engine is from a bygone era. Your father and grandfather may have done it and needed to do it at the time, but this is not your father's car nor your car from 20 years ago.
The Silicon Bugaboo

 

It is something I am going to need to look at next spring. I have mine kludged up temporarily with tie wraps. I don't remember for sure but I think the bigger of the 3 pop off things (the middle one) goes into a box type beam cross member, if that's true there will be no way to get a nut on it. I was thinking about tapping the hole in the beam (8mm or 9mm) and putting a bolt in it. The other two just go into plastic pieces so they won't be a problem.

 

It's not your money so why worry about it? Just because one company says it is no big deal does not make it law. Let those of us who want to change our oil early, do so in peace. I just paid over $30K total for a car, why would I worry so much about an extra $35 on an early oil change the first time if it gives me some peace of mind?

 

Thanks a lot for the information all. Going to change the oil first time this week with 1100 mils on it. got mobile 1, hope this stuff is a good as it is expensive 6.99 in central Pennsylvania.

 

I used Mobil 1 the first oil change (1400 miles) and I plan on sticking with it. I don't think anyone knows for sure what the factory puts in but I imagine it is Toyota's brand of 0W20 synthetic which is apparently comparable to Mobile 1, or they may use 5W20 non-synthetic to save money?

 

Mobil 1 is all I have found in the 0W-20 weight. I am sure I could go to the dealer and get some of the Toyota stuff, but that's more of a hassle than it's worth. Walmart had the 0W-20 for $6.27 a qt. Checker (Kragen) had it for $6.99/qt. I am hoping that as more new cars require this oil, Mobil will start producing it in the large jugs like they do with most of the other weights...

eBay was a good place to get the OEM filters. Do a search on the filter part number: 04152-YZZA6

 

Thanks, Got to my message before I edited it to reflect that I got my answer in the previous 16 pages. I'll try the mobile 1, we'll see how it is. I probably will end up using Amsoil because my buddy sells it and can get me a good deal when I get to my 5000 mile oil change.

 

I"m using the SSO 0-30W Amsoil... rated to 35K.. I figure that ought to last me a year!

 

How much does the Amsoil cost you Alan? I have been considering going to a 0W30 next oil change, Mobil 1 comes in that weight also.

 

I got mine from a local dealer for about 9.00/qt.
I prefer quart bottles as its so much easier to know how much you have put in.

I consider it a bargain since you can go so long between changes per Amsoil..... not that changing oil is a torment... but for just a few more bucks per change... it takes the pressure off.

I plan on changing once a year, which should be somewhere between 25K and 30K....

I like the very large buffer for grace.

 

Ya, once i get the amsoil change within the next 5-6 months, i don't plan on changing my oil for a year either. Which filter are you using though? My buddy didn't think that amsoil had a filter out for the 2010 prius yet, he is still checking for me.

 

I'm just using the filter thats Toyota grade quality.....

I have mixed feelings about a filter thats so tight It wouldn't allow any oil to pass through if it were to get plugged.... as long as it won't tear any holes, I'm good.

Its the oil and the additives that do the magic... not so much the filter per se.

Just get a high quality one and you should be good.

Just for grins.. I'm going to put a magnetic plug in for such long runs without a change too.

 

Alan, did you ever get that matter worked out with the magnetic plug guy? I'm still looking for a place where I can get one for a decent price and a guaranteed fit.

 

Temperature was warmer today (-5°C) so I made my second oil change (16,000km).

Everything went fine. I ran the car (with the A/C / heater turned off) and turned it off as soon as the ICE stopped. The Mobil1 5W20 (in the car) was very fluid and simply warm to the touch. The oil filter wrench was a tight fit and hard to remove but no more than usual.

I had no issues with the push-pins (with the engine warmed up, they were close to 0°C: they were covered with water rather than ice) ...I'll keep my two spare push-pins, bought for 3$ each at the dealer eek. The plastic panel bending was also fine: it bent very easily without any sign I could break it in doing so. I also installed a Fumoto valve (F-103): things will be easier next time.

I also made use of the two "slits" in the oil filter cartridge to let the cavity empty before I completely removed it, making things less messy.

I'll have to check if I would have more space under the car with Rhino ramps rather than by using a jack; with snow under me and a wet and dirty car so close to my face, I'm not sure I would make another DIY oil change during the winter season...

 

Glad it all went well for you. I don't think I want to do it in the cold again either, maybe 40 or 50 degrees F. would be nice. But at least we know it's possible at cooler temperatures.

 

He did contact me back and confirmed that the AP-03 was the right plug and that maybe I had gotten a wrong one in the right package.... so without me asking he sent me another.

Only problem is... its certainly looks exactly the same as the first one I got........

Either I cross threaded mine "I tried it several times and it would only got half a turn before binding up on the threads" or I got the wrong one again.

I easily threaded my old one in perfect with no problems......

I'm not sure what to think.

Since someone else claims they used the AP-03 and it worked, I guess I would go with that..... maybe it was me.

Until I try it again and crawl underneath I"ll never know..... I"ll certainly be peeved if the new one acts the same as the other one.

 

For those interested in Amsoil, if you become a preferred customer (it's like $20/yr) can get the oil for under $8/qt depending on which ones you get. I signed up as a PC because I've got the Prius and a Harley. I also have a friend with a G2 Prius, Harley, and a Buick. My brother also uses the stuff. Unfortunately, if you don't live locally to me, there's next to no chance for me to get you anything. But, you can sign up if you'd like and look around.

Amsoil doesn't have an oil filter yet for the 2010, but I believe you can order a Wix one through them for roughly $10 it was. I am using the toyota filters, as they were on sale for around $5 each if you got 3 or more when I was there last. OF course, I got 3 of them .

I also just got the results of my 5400 mile oil analysis. I'll try to attach it for people. Anyone thought of trying to get a separate thread/sticky thing just for those of us with analysis?

 

Oh, I also have the F-103 quick drain valve that I put on the car after the first change. I got the nippled and non-nippled one just in case. Gave the nippled one to a friend with a 2008 Prius. Should be the same one.

 

Interesting results... what would you say your driving habits are like? What is your typical drive like? With the high oxidation and fuel dilution would seem to indicate hard driving or I guess just break-in. Just curious. I would really like to see your next analysis.