Oil filter position on 2010

Oil change procedure is here, with pictures. Just go down the page and click on "Changing Oil".
John's Stuff - Toyota Prius and more

Here is one of the threads on DIY oil changes:
http://priuschat.com/forums/gen-iii.../67747-oil-change-2010-prius-do-yourself.html

It's pretty easy, the filter cap comes off with a standard 64mm 14 flute filter tool. The cap has slots in it and when you loosen it a few turns you can put one of the slots down and the oil drains out of the filter assembly in a minute or two. Actually you can get by with the 65mm filter tool sold in Wal-Mart or auto parts stores but it may be a bit loose, you can get the correct one here: http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/asttoy640.html

 

In Toyota's defense they did change the interval to 10,000 miles. So it just got easier by half.

 

Thanks for posting, great info.

 

For those worried about dry starts after oil changes. Toyota's new 0W20 is formulated with quite a bit of Moly as a friction modifier. Under op conditions this plates on the metal and acts to prevent metal wear for short durations, such as those found during a cold start or after changing the oil. I wouldn't be too concerned.

If you want the absolute best in protection go for Redlines oils. They use Group V Esters which clings to metal really well. I may end up using this after my first few break in oil changes.

 

An area of concern with Redline is that the part of their protection is achieved by high concentrations of the antiwear agent ZDDP (Zinc dialkyldithiophosphates). This is a wonderful anti-wear agent used in all modern oils, but the phosphorus can slowly poison the catalytic converters of cars. This is why the concentration of phosphorus was limited to 800PPM in SM oils. Redline oils greatly exceed this concentration so while they may protect the engine very well, they may shorten the life of your very expensive catalytic converted.

Rumple

 

Yes, Redline uses higher concentrations of ZDDP, but one must also take into account the oils NOACK Volatility rating. Redlines is usually pretty low compared to some other brands. I still think that ove the life of a cars converter we are really only talking about a small effect.
Amsoils formulation is actually pretty good in this regard. I've used both, and Amsoil would be better for the cars emisssions system.

BTW. Toyota's 0W20 is very close to being a 30 weight at op temp. Pour point depressents and a VII give this oil its low rating. This along with the low TBN makes one wonder what effect this has on the engine, but some oil analysis are showing very good numbers. It is a good oil, and if changed at proper regular intervals will serve anyone very well indeed.