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First Enginer PHEV install in the Portland Or area, Gen2

Discussion in 'Prius PHEV Plug-In Modifications' started by dan2l, Jan 5, 2010.

  1. dan2l

    dan2l 2014 Prius v wagon

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    Hi Dutch,
    The "pic" is in the 1-30-2010 post. Did you not see that? If you have questions about that picture, Please be more detailed in asking those questions.

    The initial install is simple. Just unplug the DB8 and plug in the CellLog. Same connector same pin out. However you probably want both the CellLog and the DB8 so you need to make up junction wire harness as I did.

    I am told not to plug in the USB while the CellLog is connected to the Enginer cells because the USB power line is not isolated. So I pull the CellLogs out to down load them.

    I have now added alarms to the CellLog alarm output. That connector has a black wire and a red wire. The black wire is connected to Cell 1 negative terminal. The red wire is switched with the alarm. I bought two 12v buzzers at Radio Shack. They are high enough resistance to stay under the 500ma spec for the CellLog. So the CellLog red wire goes to the buzzer black wire and the buzzer red wire goes to Cell 4 positive terminal. In this case the CellLog Black wire is not needed.

    The software is very difficult but usable with the instructions included. I download the data into the supplied software and then save to XLS. Then I can manipulate it in Excel.

    Thanks,
    Dan
     
  2. DaveinOlyWA

    DaveinOlyWA 3rd Time was Solariffic!!

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    dan; u say your weakest pair limits you to 25 miles, what would be the range at all EV? freeway boost takes so much other factors into consideration.
     
  3. dan2l

    dan2l 2014 Prius v wagon

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    Hi Dave,
    The Enginer system only does about 5 miles in constant EV because the 10amps does not keep up with the EV needs. The weak cell will easily do this.

    I live out in the country. So I do about 1 mile solid EV. Then down a steep hill that does Regen to get me back up to 7 bars. Then 50-55mph for 4-5 miles before I get to town. At this point the Enginer system has been on for about 10 minutes. Note that the Prius HV battery stays at 7 bars for this whole time because the ICE is running. Most of this drive is still at 60+mpg because of what you call Freeway Boost. The system voltage limits when the Prius is at 7 bars so the current is only at 10 amps about half of this time.

    Then, in town I can do about 4-5 miles of Pure EV. During this time the system is at the full 10 amps. The Prius HV battery drops from 7 bars to 2 bars and then the ICE comes on.

    At this point I am heading home and get the speed back up to 50+mph. I get 40-50mpg until the Prius HV battery gets back up to 5-6 bars and then the mpg goes back up. Then back up the hill at low mpg. Finally the last mile is again all EV.

    This total is about 15-20 miles total including the 1+5+1 miles of pure EV. The system accomplishes this even with the weak cell.

    Hope this addresses your question.
    Thanks,
    Dan
     
  4. DaveinOlyWA

    DaveinOlyWA 3rd Time was Solariffic!!

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    ok, how about this. if i had a 7 mile commute at 35 mph and could recharge at work. do i need any gas? kinda doesnt sound like it. morning commute is fairly constant, little stops (there is a lot of lights but easier to time) the afternoon commute is nearly 50% stop and go traffic.
     
  5. dan2l

    dan2l 2014 Prius v wagon

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    Hi Dave,
    Yes, you would need gas but not much.

    If this is in your 2010, EV only works up to 25 mph. So anytime you hit 25 you get kicked out of EV. The first time this happens the ICE will do its warm up cycle. After that you can use a light peddle to keep the ICE off up to 45mph but you will not be able to accelerate without firing the ICE. So I expect you will run the ICE maybe a mile or so. You should still get 90+ mpg.

    When you hit stop and go, you will be able to go farther in EV. So you may be able to keep the ICE off in the afternoon If you charge up the Prius HV battery before you start home. To do this the car needs to be on and in EV mode with the Enginer system on before you start to drive. This takes about 6 minutes per bar. So if you get to work at 3 bars. A 20 minute on time will get you started home with about 7 bars. By the time you get home you will be back down to 3 bars.

    Here the problem is not the cell capacity but rather the transfer rate of the converter. The converter is limited to 10 amps.

    If you want maximize EV I would suggest 6kwhr and 2 converters. Chan may be a better person the tell how that would work.

    Thanks,
    Dan
     
  6. banshee08

    banshee08 Member

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    This all depends on the terrain of your drive. Also keep in mind that you need to warm up the ICE to at least 100F to get the car to stay in EV mode beyond 10mph even if you use the EV mode. If your drive is fairly flat then you should have no problem if you used a 6kWh system with two converters, else even with two converters you will need the ICE to help you get up to speed if you are fighting a slight uphill. You will use some gas for sure until someone comes up with a real EV mode hack for up to 46mph without running the ICE regardless of load and temps.
     
  7. DaveinOlyWA

    DaveinOlyWA 3rd Time was Solariffic!!

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    ok, so not going to work for me. i am looking for a no gas option. i only need 15 miles of range (actually 7 but a bit extra is nice for additional errands although they are rare. after 10+ hours at work, i tend to go straight home!!) and only need speeds up to 35-40 mph; not a lot to ask for

    i am pretty much looking to dump the Zenn and the 2006 for an EV. just a question of who to get. the Plug in Pri would also be an option if it will do want i want.
     
  8. TheForce

    TheForce Stop War! Lets Rave! Make Love!

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    Dave I think your best options that I know of is Hymotion and PICC

    Hymotion with the 52mph hack can do what you want but you have to watch amp usage and SOC because the Hymotion battery can only deliver about 30-35 amps. If you draw more than that you risk draining the stock battery. If you can do your 7 miles under 34 MPH you can just use the EV button but you still have to watch your amps and SOC.

    The PICC battery will do what you want 100% from what I understand.

    Your other options is doing the CalCars method with lead batteries, original Prius batteries or LiFePO4 batteries.

    Personally I would go with either the Hymotion or PICC in your situation but these systems cost more.

    The down side if you dont use any gas is that your gas will go bad. Another down side is that you must use some gas when the temps get below freezing. Either to defog the windows, warm up the car, or just because the Prius just needs it because its just too damn cold.

    Also the gas engine needs to run once in a while to lube things up.
     
  9. banshee08

    banshee08 Member

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    In your case I would just sign up for the Nissan Leaf when it is available for preorder. Nissan claims that the price is in the range of the prius. 100 mile range (maybe 75miles true depending on conditions and heater/AC so on) and no gasoline to worry about going bad. Same format as the prius as it is a 5 door vehicle. Just a thought. I know I am thinking about it maybe trading in my Altima Hybrid for a Leaf and use my Gen3 Prius to do the long distance runs.

    Sorry Dan. Lets get back to the this threads purpose.
     
  10. DaveinOlyWA

    DaveinOlyWA 3rd Time was Solariffic!!

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    have not kept up on it, but has hymotion come out with a 2010 version?

    if so, would i not be able to do up to 45mph? since this is upper EV limit?

    if that is the case, i might just do that. i have already figured that i am looking at close to $10-13,000 out of pocket for the EV option after trade in.

    the 2006 is hardly ready for trade in (heck it still has OEM tires!!) and go at least 3-5 years...10 if SO job transfer does not happen (was announced last may, transfer date july 1st, nov 1, feb 1, all postponed indefinitely)
     
  11. dan2l

    dan2l 2014 Prius v wagon

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    Hi Dave,
    This is a very interesting topic. I think you may want to start a PHEV vs Pure EV thread to discuss it further. I have a comment on that but I will wait for the new thread.

    Anyway this thread is not the best place for that discussion....
    So :focus:

    Thanks,
    Dan
     
  12. dan2l

    dan2l 2014 Prius v wagon

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    Hello Everyone,
    Today I got 2 replacement cells from Jack to replace my weak cells. This means taking apart the battery pack, so I will do the more robust Buddy Cell process with heavy copper straps.

    I was asked somewhere to publish pictures and document the process. I think that the best place to do that is in the thread called

    Balance at the cell low voltage limit
    http://priuschat.com/forums/prius-p...s/75115-balance-cell-low-voltage-limit-4.html

    I plan to add the heavy copper straps.
    I hope to do a cell capacity check and to pair the cells so that all pairs have as close as possible to the same capacity.
    I hope to get a better balance at the bottom.

    Thanks,
    Dan
     
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  13. dan2l

    dan2l 2014 Prius v wagon

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    Hello Everyone,
    I have completed my install in the Gen2 so I wanted to finsh this thread. However this may not be the first in the Portland area, Gene now has a Gen1 running.
    CmpltOpen.jpg CmpltClsd.jpg
    I got the Feb kits and that included a Gen3 kit complete instead of a Gen2. So Jack sent me a Gen2 box and I rebuild my old system into it. So I now have the following.

    32Cells paired and balanced as discribed in the balance at the bottom thread.
    The original charger set for 57v at the factory.
    A new Converter putting out 12a.
    The old set of DB8 balancers
    The old toggle switch and LEDs in the dash
    A new bumper plug.
    I have added a pair of CellLogs and Sirens for full obnoxiusly loud alarms

    I am now charging without alarms. The highest voltage seen on any cell was 3.6v.

    I drove 24 miles with an average of 95.9mpg. This improved mpg is because the I had changed converters. I had ordered a spare and so I put this one in just because I had it. The old converter put out 10a and the new converter puts out 12a. I may see more heating and so I may want the old converter in the summer.

    I now feel like this system is ready to be used as "Plug and Play".

    Thanks,
    Dan
     
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  14. dan2l

    dan2l 2014 Prius v wagon

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    Hello Everyone,
    I have now driven the rebuilt system for a week or so. I am always above 80mpg with each trip being over 20 miles. I have not yet run the system to a low SOC so I do not really know my capacity.

    I typically start with 7 bars on the Prius. I leave the house and do 1 mile of pure EV. Then a 1/4 mile above 35mph which turns on the ICE. Then 1/2 mile of coasting with a steep down hill. The ICE is on during this 1/2 mile coast time. At the bottom of the hill the ICE temp is above 90degF and the ICE turns off at the stop sign. At this point I am still at 7 bars and have a reported average of 70mpg. Then I do 5 miles at about 50mph with 2 stop signs. At the end of that I am still at 7 bars and have a reported average of 80mpg. Then I do mostly EV in town. I get the average up over 99pmg but the SOC in the Prius goes down to low levels. If I can stop at a store and leave the Enginer system on then I can keep going on maximum EV for a while longer but the ICE temp continues to drop. When the SOC gets to 3 bars or the ICE temp drops too low, the ICE comes on and the mpg starts to drop. Going home is the reverse, 5miles at 50mph then up the hill then EV into the garage.

    To get 80+mpg takes really knowing your car and where you are driving. Low SOC or low ICE temp will quickly drop your performance.

    In another week of so I will post a chart of my mileage.

    Thanks,
    Dan
     
  15. linuxpenguin

    linuxpenguin Active Member

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    Hi Dan,

    Just out of curiosity, what are you using to gauge MPG averages in posts like the previous one? If you're using the MFD, you are of course remembering that the MPG display is deceptive in the sense that the average markers are over units of time and not distance--yes? I really wish the MFD displayed MPG over distance instead of time...

    If your trips are made up of lots of stop lights / stop signs (or stopping at stores) that may be influencing your numbers a bit. What's the MFD tank average and miles driven on tank say at this point?

    If you have a Scangauge on the other hand this may be more accurate (though I don't know know much about the accuracy of the scangauge MPG calcs on the Prius).

    EDIT:
    One other thing--you are saving a lot of gasoline simply by keeping the car on while at the store (regardless of whether or not the car is converted). If you had turned the car off, it would have to go through the whole warmup cycle again and would noticeably reduce overall mileage. I'm sure you probably knew that though =).

    Andrew
     
  16. dan2l

    dan2l 2014 Prius v wagon

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    Hello Everyone,
    I am still running with no problems. I am still getting high mileage here is my chart.
    Mileage.jpg
    I have always used the Prius average numbers. I know this may not be fully acurate but it is good for comparison. I was getting 45mpg before the Enginer install and that is what I compare to.

    I do not have a ScanGauge running in this car. In my Wifes 2010 the ScanGauge matches the Prius reported mileage exactly.

    Thanks,
    Dan
     
  17. DaveinOlyWA

    DaveinOlyWA 3rd Time was Solariffic!!

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    awesome stats Dan!
     
  18. pbui

    pbui Member

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    not sure if this is off-topic, but I am wondering if a 4kwhr pack can support 2x 3000w converter ? still pulling around 2C. Granted that the available range would be less.

    thanks, Pb
     
  19. dan2l

    dan2l 2014 Prius v wagon

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    I do not recommend it. I have seen 80a drawn with one 3k converter and cells just above the 46v limit. So the would be as high as 160a through 2 converters. The cells will droop their voltage a lot with this current draw.

    Also the Prius will throw codes with 2 converters.

    Thanks,
    Dan
     
  20. pbui

    pbui Member

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    thanks Dan - that is about right: (3000w/85% efficiency) / 48v =~ 73.5A; which is about 1C for a these 2x39Ah buddy-paired Motcell. With two 3000w converters, the 2C draw is still within specs, but it is stressing the cells, which will effect longevity.

    I need (really meant want), either another pack or the 5000w converter. The 3000w converter just doesn't cut it for my application: freeway & hill (2200 ft daily climb). I think the newer 5000w is the preferred route as I've heard that it run cooler, thus more efficient.

    Pb