New codes for old 2003 still won't start.

Why not put the pack back in the car and let the computer that was custom-designed specifically for that pack execute the diagnostic routines that were also custom-designed specifically for that pack?

That's the best, fastest, and most accurate "whole pack test".

And since you have the updated Autoenginuity package—not the older, error-riddled package that had often been promoted in this forum as accurate—you can sit in on the test.

 

It works, and works better than any bench test.

If the vehicle's engine starts, you can use the vehicle itself to load test the battery pack.

 

Since you're bringing all the modules up to full charge, you might consider using incandescent bulbs in series for a bench load. Three, 100 W. bulbs wired in series should provide about a 300 W load to a fully charged pack. You'll need to monitor voltages and current by other means ... say a 0.1 to 0.01 ohm resistor (Radio Shack) to monitor current with the volt meter.

After getting all modules fully charged, you'll need to equalize their state of charge. But in a week, the first modules would have self-discharged part of their charge. So I'd use a 12 V bulb as a resistive load and reduce the charge of the higher modules to match the lowest module voltage. Then you're ready for a bench load test.

Using the three, 100 W bulbs and a jumper to bridge the gap, put the load on the pack. Then go looking for the weakest modules. You can extend the inspection interval by using say 40 W or lower wattage bulbs and cutting the current load nearly in half.

Needless to say, you are dealing with whole pack voltages in lethal ranges. Be very, very careful and don't leave it up if there are curious cats in the area.

Bob Wilson