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can i call what i'm experiencing an SUA, and other issues

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Main Forum' started by nawlinsprius, Mar 18, 2010.

?

Do you have the same 3 issues?

Poll closed Mar 15, 2020.
  1. issue 1 - stationary SUA

    60.0%
  2. issue 2 - misaligned steering wheel

    20.0%
  3. issue 3 - gen2 ABS Brake weirdness

    60.0%
Multiple votes are allowed.
  1. nawlinsprius

    nawlinsprius New Member

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    EDIT: for the poll above, if the answer is YES, click the corresponding box, don't click if NO. I can't figure how to edit the poll...

    so here's the deal:
    i have a 2008 gen2 prius, package 2, with 26k miles on it, original owner.
    I have 3 issues, the first one I think can qualify as SUA, albeit a small A, dangerous nevertheless:

    1.after about 20k miles, whenever the car is in park, with the system ON, when the gas engine starts (to recharge the battery after being stopped on the ferry which i take daily - and i sit inside with the a/c or heat on), the car lurches forward about 3-4"...
    again, the car is ON, in P.
    this is very dangerous... once my wife was squeezing in front of the car to get from one side to the other and i only had ~6" to the ferry's ramp, and her legs almost got crushed... (would have been a great loss since she has great legs :) another time i was parked 1" from the car in front, and got in the car, turned the car on, waited for a minute or so while fixing stuff inside the car, and the car bumped into the car in front of me.... it was an escalade with some scary guys waiting inside, needless to say it was not a good experience... wanted to blame toyota but the guys just thought i was an inept driver...
    i noticed the movement is bigger when the engine is warm; counterintuitive.
    this is reproducible all the time.
    the dealer was shown the car's behaviour and said it is normal...

    2. second issue, that i've been having since i bought the car, and posted about it in 2008, is that my steering wheel is not straight when the wheels are straight. about 2" on the circumference difference.
    The dealer refused to fix it for free, although i have asked him a few days after i bought the car. the priuschat replies i got said it's an alignment issue. although doubtful (imagining there is a simple screw somewhere on the steering column that needs to be adjusted) i went to sears auto care and had the alignment checked ($39.99 instead of the 90 or so asked by the dealer). they found it to be perfect and was told alignment only checks the geometry of the wheels relative to the body, and that the steering column needs to be adjusted by the dealer. 2 years later, steering wheel still misaligned (after 4 5000k miles services and tire rotations)

    3. I do get on my gen2 prius the exact same ABS braking issue for which the gen3 are being recalled for the software fix. it is reproducible every time in a couple particular spots during my commute where there is cobblestone or bad asphalt before a stoplight. it is annoying but was told is by design. no other car i had performs this way, and they all have ABS (volvo 740t, 850t, seat leon and citroen c2 while i am in europe, acura tls, or any number of rentals i've had from toyota, honda, kia, ford etc...) my car being a package 2 has traction control too, but it cannot be disabled like in other cars. why not??? any hack where i can add a switch? would that void the extended warranty i am planning to get from troy/warrantyschack?
    (btw, i am holding on until almost the end of the factory one, since if i get into a wreck by then it would be $1k out the window so that answers my position on buying extended warranty)

    4. this is more a question than problem: i have been pulse-and-gliding, and i sometimes put it in N for the glide part, until i need to slow down when i go back to D, and I also use B when going downhill say from the big mississippi river bridge. questions: does B allow more regeneration or just lets the gas engine turn and create more drag to slow down (and more wear on the cylinders)? and 2: after reading a lot of the current runaway prius controversy, i noticed toyota recommends going to N only in emergencies. would me putting it into N on a regular basis for coasting have any adverse effects (i can switch it very fast back to D with a flick of a finger if i need to accelerate all of a sudden)?

    that's about it. i would appreciate any input. I am in new orleans, and really have to fight with my wife over who gets to drive the prius (i get 50-55mpg calculated average, she gets 45-50 :)
    Do you guys think #1 is a safety issue that i need to report to the NHTSA? the dealer says it's normal so that tells me not to waste my time trying to contact toyota higher.
    I did report #3 on the NHTSA website when i saw i have the same problem as gen3 and there was no recall. I think it's a minor safety issue, but would hate to get a software fix that reduces gas mileage or introduces another unknown parameter.

    also, my 2 cents about the whole SUA/Sikes incident: I think the only way it would be possible for mr. sikes account to be true is if there was a complete software malfunction in which the throttle and gas pedal inputs were ignored, AND mr. sikes did not push hard enough on the brakes.
    Open Source black box / ECU monitoring anybody? :)

    thanks, I welcome your replies!
     
  2. justlurkin

    justlurkin Señor Member

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    On your Issue #1: There is some slack in the parking pawl. When the ICE kicks in, there is going to be some torque going through the Power Split Device gearset as MG1 is being spun up to charge the battery, which is why there is a slight rocking due to the slack in the pawl. Solution is simple-- USE YOUR PARKING BRAKE! Whenever I put my '07 Prius in Park, I always engage the parking brake. Never had a problem with rocking since. There's a reason why it's called "the parking brake", you know. :D

    If you engaged your parking brake and the car still rocks when ICE kicks in during Park, you need to get your parking brake adjusted.

    On issue #2: At least it is not a critical safety issue. But I can understand why you would be annoyed-- I'd be pissed too if my steering wheel is crooked. Maybe contact Toyota Customer Care and file a complaint? Maybe you can get better service now that they are trying to improve their PR image.

    On issue #3: That particular braking behavior has been discussed ad nauseum on these boards. It is the HSD computer temporarily cutting off regenerative braking to protect the electric motors (being used as generators during regen braking) from overload. When you feel that "lurch" and temporary loss of regen braking, the solution is to press on the pedal HARDER. This will cause the friction hydraulic brakes to actuate immediately. It is NOT "hackable." Not unless you know how to reprogram the HSD computer.

    On issue #4: NO REGENERATION in Neutral AT ALL. In B-mode, you are using the engine's cylinders flailing to help slow down the car (like how one uses rev-matching in a manual-transmission car to help braking). B-mode does NOT improve regeneration at all.

    If you are making it a habit to brake in N, you will find that your brake pads are going to get worn VERY quickly. In Neutral, braking is ALL hydraulic.
     
  3. nawlinsprius

    nawlinsprius New Member

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    Thanks for your reply. I am taking the liberty to respond to some of the answers:

    I come from a culture where it's cold and the parking cable sometimes freezes, so i only use the parking brake only when parked on sloped streets. In fact, isn't it called Emergency Brake? I don't think more than a handful of people use it every single time they park... The damage you do when driving with it on is not worth it...
    I still think the movement when the car is in P is unacceptable and unique.


    I will try, but am not holding my breath.

    My question was what are the downsides of having the software fix done If and When they issue it for gen2. This is exactly the same as gen3, i have driven both to make sure. Also, I do have an issue when a car behaves very differently on braking than all others on the road. This is why most features and car behaviors are standardized, since people drive many cars and should be able to drive one when they rent it for the first time.

    I wasn't asking for a hack for the ABS brake letdown problem. I was asking for a button or software hack adding a switch on the MFD that turns VSC/Traction control on and off whenever I choose to. Most cars have a switch for TC/VSC on or off, no reason not to have one since the car is obviously ok in both states (some packages have the VSC, some don't)

    Thanks, this answers it completely.

    I never said and never do brake in N, (did i mention i get over 50mpg?), that would be stupid. I always get back in D when i approach slowdown needed point and use regen braking as long as possible. My question was if coasting in N damages anything, since toyota clearly stated that N is for emergency engine power disconnect only. Same thing with P, seems to me like it's much easier to press P to get to N than to hold N, so if I use P against toyota's advice, 1 will i damage anything and 2 will it void a warranty claim.

    your responses are appreciated.
     
  4. qbee42

    qbee42 My other car is a boat

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    #1) It is a parking brake. Toyota has clearly stated that this is a parking brake, and is only useful in an emergency as a final method of braking just before you start dragging feet out of the door.

    As for having the cable freeze, if you use it this won't happen. Likewise it is very difficult to drive off in a Prius with the parking brake set. The feel is a lot different than with any other car.

    The play in the system in Park is the same as with any other automatic. They all have some play. It is inherent in the design of parking pawls. The difference is that the Prius starts and stops the engine at odd times. This is the nature of a hybrid drive system. If you drive a hybrid, you need to understand this and take appropriate action.

    First, the movement is very small. If the small amount of movement creates a risk, you are parking too close to obstructions. Second, if you don't want to deal with it, power down or use the parking brake.

    #2) Get the steering wheel aligned. It's not rocket science. Many Prius suffer alignment problems from being shipped overseas. This is why the dealer offers a free alignment on new cars. If your dealer is having trouble with this simple issue, you are using the wrong dealer.

    #3) This has never been a real issue. The issue is new drivers unused to regenerative braking. Mostly it is a function of feel and getting used to how your car drives. It was worse in the Gen III, which is why a recall was made. The recall improves the feel of the braking system, but does not change the safety or efficacy of the system.

    The traction control on the Gen II is more touchy. If you don't have good tires, get some. That will help a lot.

    #4) Don't use B mode unless you drive in the mountains. There are very few situations where it is helpful unless you descend very steep hills.

    Tom
     
  5. yardman 49

    yardman 49 Active Member

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    To the OP:

    Your reasoning is backwards regarding the parking brake, as those who live in snowy climates can attest: you should use the parking brake often, as it will keep corrosion from building up in the moving parts.

    If you never use it, and then suddenly decide to use it one day, it very well could freeze up, due to the disuse.
     
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  6. nawlinsprius

    nawlinsprius New Member

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    the other 2 prii i drove (rental and friend's) had much smaller amplitude movement. is there anything (motor mounts, etc) that would make it worse? as i mentioned, this is worse when engine is warm, and only became an issue after 20k. 3" or more is unacceptable for me and a safety hazard. the other cars moved 1" at the most.

    free alignment was to 12k. i have 26k now. i didn't know then that they are supposed to do it free. they wanted ~$90-100. I had wheel alignment checked at sears and that had nothing to do with steering column.

    i did not see a difference between my gen 2 and a gen3 i test drove over the same spot. same letdown in braking. i will get the fix if it becomes available on gen2 since you say it will not change the fuel economy or adds a new problem. meanwhile, i have filed an nthsa report to make them fix this on gen 2 since it seems the same as the one they're fixing on gen3.

    i have normal integrity tires, almost no wear after 26k mi. The question was though if i can turn VSC on and off whenever I want to. I like being in control :)

    got it. thought b adds more regen, but this answers it. they should describe this mode more in detail in the manual, especially since it's unique for this car.

    how about pressing P for neutral? or just using neutral? any downsides?

    thanks!
     
  7. nawlinsprius

    nawlinsprius New Member

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    wouldn't you agree it's worse if it freezes up in the depressed position?
    also, does the prius have an actual cable in a sleeve for the emerg.brake or is it by wire or hydraulic?
    also, does it have separate pads or calipers or uses the same calipers on the rear drum?
    if it's a cable, does it need to be lubricated?
    also, how many times can you start driving with it pressed before it becomes an issue (lengthening of the cable or wear/warping on the brakes)? my wife drove with it on for 2-3 miles and complained the car was extra sluggish... this is why i don't use it (blaming the wife as always) and why i think most people don't either.
     
  8. bedrock8x

    bedrock8x Senior Member

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    The poll is biased because there is no selection for none of the issues.
    The result will only show 100% that responded with problem.
     
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  9. nawlinsprius

    nawlinsprius New Member

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    you are correct, i am unable to edit the poll. when i created it i thought every question has its own y/n answers... sorry, i'll make a better one next time.
     
  10. qbee42

    qbee42 My other car is a boat

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    The question about tires was in response to the "brake dropout" issue. The braking transition occurs when one of the front tires loses grip, which forces the braking system to transition to ABS friction brakes. Goodyear Integrity tires are very low friction tires, which means you will experience this a lot more often than someone with good tires.

    VSC is an entirely different issue, although it is still related to tires. VSC kicks in when the car fails to go in the direction that the driver steers. In other words, when the car skids, VSC modulates the power and selectively applies brakes to try and bring the car back under control. There is no good reason to ever turn off VSC for a passenger car.

    Tom
     
  11. bruceha_2000

    bruceha_2000 Senior Member

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    I doubt it. My father-in-law said the brake issue in his 2010 was a 'sudden sinking' of the pedal with no loss of braking power. The Gen II "braking on bad road or loose 'stuff'" is a BRIEF loss of braking with no change in brake feel. I think it only happens when you are in the transition from regen braking to friction braking. Can happen at the 7/8 MPH point or at higher speeds if you are braking lightly.
     
  12. justlurkin

    justlurkin Señor Member

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    Dude, you are in New Orleans. Nothing ever freezes down there.

    I am FAR north of you in New York. Never had my parking brake frozen.

    The equipment is there, available for you to prevent the rocking. If you don't want to use it, then don't complain.

    The Prius braking is a predictable behaviour that one can learn to compensate for. Every car has their own unique characteristics, and if this is not something you can tolerate, maybe you should sell your Prius and get a different car.


    Nope. Traction control is handled by the HSD computer. No way to turn it off unless you hack the HSD computer.

    No damage coasting in N. And the HSD computer will switch to N rather than P if you press P while the car is in motion above a couple miles per hour (the parking pawl will not engage).
     
  13. Politburo

    Politburo Active Member

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    You do not have SUA. That much is obvious.

    But looking at standard 114 (49 CFR 571.114), it looks like a vehicle in park should not creep more than 150mm (S6.2.2.h and S6.2.3.h). That is 6 inches. Your vehicle appears to be within the standard.
     
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  14. nawlinsprius

    nawlinsprius New Member

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    I was jokingly calling it SUA. A more accurate term would be SMWPTCCYL: sudden movement while parked, that can crush your legs.
    and to the others that replied that this is normal for an automatic non hybrid car, that is nonsense since a non-hybrid does not start and stop its engine by itself, therefore uncontrollably.
    Well, re-reading the above , why not SUA??? Is it sudden? yes it is. is it unintended? absolutely! is it not Acceleration? well, car was stopped, then it moved... that change of status had an acceleration...
    i maintain that it is dangerous, but the thing is my original post and a few of the following had a question that nobody bothers to examine: why is this movement more pronounced after 20k mi and when engine is warm... makes no sense to me other than something is more loose in the mounts or transmission.

    googled it and read it. i refers to CREEPING while in park. What i experience is SUDDEN movement, which is dangerous as i mentioned when parked a few inches away from an obstacle and someone crosses that space. lawsuit waiting to happen.

    thanks.
     
  15. yardman 49

    yardman 49 Active Member

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    1) Of course, if the parking brake freezes in the "depressed" position, it will cause the brakes to drag. But if you use the parking brake regularly, as already stated, then the components should not freeze up.

    I lived in New England for many years. I live in Northern Kentucky now, and we get snow in the winter. The only time I ever had parking brake issues was decades ago, on used cars that I bought. Once the parking brakes were "fixed" on these used cars, regular use always kept them from "freezing" again.

    2) I believe that the G2 Prius uses a cable.

    3) The G2 uses the actual rear drum brakes for the parking brakes. Usually it's only the cars that have 4 wheel disks that utilize auxilliary rear pads for the parking brake.

    4) I've never had to lubricate a parking brake cable for many decades. Not to beat a dead horse here :deadhorse:, but it seems that the cables nowadays can be kept from freezing with only regular use and no additional lubrication.

    5) Drum-based rear brakes (like the G2 Prius has) will have some sort of "self-adjuster" in them. If the adjuster is over-adjusted, it can cause the rear brakes to drag. But this is easily rectified.

    6) I don't know "how many times" you can drive with the parking brake on without it causing significant damage. I've done it on other cars on a couple of occasions with no lasting effects. Of course, it's usually only a few hundred feet before I feel that something is wrong.

    If you try to drive the Prius with the parking brake depressed there will be a flashing warning on the dashboard that is very hard to miss. If you depress the parking brake pedal properly, it will in fact be very difficult to make the car move. Once you get in the habit of using the parking brake, try to "re-educate" your wife to step on the brake hard enough. Then when she tries to drive the car, even should she miss the flashing warning, she should immediately feel the difference.

    Maybe you can also "gently" suggest to her that she actually look at the dashboard occassionally ;)

    7) If the parking brake doesn't hold well enough, try backing up the car at a good rate of speed, and then stepping firmly on the brake pedal. Repeat this a few times. It should cause the automatic adjuster for the rear brake pads to take up any slack in the rear pads to compensate for wear. If this doesn't work it may be because brake dust needs to be cleaned out of the rear drums.

    8) Some people really rebel against using parking brakes on cars with "automatic" transmissions. But even with automatics, it's not a good idea to have the transmission rest on the parking pawl. So best practice is to use the parking brake even for automatic transmissions.

    For those of us who used to drive manual transmissions (or who still do), using the parking brake is second nature. But the Prius' HSD is neither an automatic nor manual transmission, but a third type of transmission, if you will. There is no clutch. There are no different output "gears", but rather different power inputs that work with each other to propel the vehicle at the desired velocity and acceleration. So it helps to NOT think that "the car should not move at all in park".

    If it were a manual transmission, you would have to have it in neutral (or in gear with the clutch depressed), and the foot or parking brakes set, in order not to roll or move. So keep in mind that "it's not an automatic (in the historical sense of the word), nor is it a manual, but rather something else". This will free your mind to learn how to handle a "new" type of drive system.

    Best wishes,
     
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  16. yardman 49

    yardman 49 Active Member

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    Hello Nawlinsprius:

    In response to your question about using neutral: for normal driving there are some occasions where neutral is not a good thing to use, as it might cause MG2 to overspin at higher highway speeds (from what I remember). Probably someone of the more knowledgeable members here will explain it to you. Or use can use the Search feature.

    In the event of a true SUA, I think that the consensus is to first stomp "hard and fast" on the brakes. This engages the Braking Assist feature, which can almost put you through the windshield if you are not wearing your seatbelt. Next would be to hold the transmission in neutral for a few seconds (a brief tap while under power usually will not do it). Least desirable would be to power off (holding the button for a few seconds), which should still be safe enough to not cause any catastrophic failures to the automobile.

    Best wishes,
     
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  17. uart

    uart Senior Member

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    This is just a guess, but perhaps the parking pawl now has more play due to wear. Wear that was quite possibly caused by your excessive reliance on "park" to hold the car because of your aversion to using the park brake.

    Some members here even use a bit of extra caution to minimize the strain on the parking pawl mechanism. This involves shifting to N and applying the park brake first, then releasing the normal foot brake (if applied) and allowing whatever movement ensues to take up any slack in the park brake (and to ensure that the park brake will hold against the grade unaided) and only then to hit park (or turn off the car as the case may be). Ok it might sound a bit over cautious but this is what myself and some others here often do.

    BTW. Re the question about B mode operation. Some people use B mode to give a bit more of a traditional engine brake feel when driving in mountainous terrain. I sometimes use B mode to actually reduce the amount of regeneration (due to the extra mechanical losses of turning the engine) when I have a very large decent that I know will give more than enough regen to charge the battery to the full 8 green bars. This just means it takes longer to reach the full state of charge which reduces the overall amount of friction braking used.
     
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  18. qbee42

    qbee42 My other car is a boat

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    A minor correction: The self adjusting rear brakes on the Gen II Prius are not the normal adjust-when-backing type. Prius drum brakes adjust every time you use them. It's a very clever system that causes the adjuster to turn if there is excessive play in the system. It is not necessary or effective to back and brake to force adjustment.

    Tom
     
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  19. nawlinsprius

    nawlinsprius New Member

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    i understand now. thanks everyone for the detailed answers. i will try to use the emergency brake more often when parked. i will still park 1" away from the other cars, since this is the nature of finding a spot downtown NOLA. I did install rubber pads on my car's bumpers. they make it look more like a volvo from the golden days which hold a special place in my memory:).
     
  20. uart

    uart Senior Member

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    Hey good to hear. :)

    Just one other point about the park brake possibly sticking on. I think somewhere in the past you must have got the wrong idea about when this will and when this wont be a problem. The situation where the park brake can cause a sticking problem (on some cars) is when the car is left to sit for weeks on end with the park brake applied. Many guides to "mothballing" for example do tell you to avoid using the park brake if possible and to consider choking the wheels instead. Personally I've had occasions with older cars when I've left them parked for a month or more where the park brake did bind on from corrosion. They always did free themselves when I eventually drove them, but you could feel the drag and then hear a clunk as they released.

    Anyway, this is not the case for normal use of the park brake, such as when you're on the ferry etc. As others here have already said, frequent use of the park brake will actually make it less likely to bind on.