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my Prius is playing musical locks on me

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by cnschult, Apr 8, 2010.

  1. cnschult

    cnschult Active Member

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    I've got 5 doors but when I unlock the doors only 3 will unlock. Every week its a different 3 meaning 2 will not lock or unlock. You never know which 2 will fail as it seems to be a sick game of musical locks that the Prius is playing on me.

    its really embarrassing having to go in a rear door and having to reach over the front seat to unlock a front door manually. I don't feel like taking the metal key out of the sks fob and going old school.

    one door failing means mechanical (actuator or whatever) but 2 doors failing at random locations has got to be electrical (or am i wrong??)

    some other clues:
    -sometimes the little lock starts to move but doesn't make the full 90 degree turn to lock or unlock but sometimes it doesn't budge at all.
    -I have never experience any other electrical problems including the dreaded intermittent HID lighting problem.

    If anyone knows what the problem is and a do-it-yourself way to fix it would be greatly appreciated.
     
  2. direstraits71

    direstraits71 Member

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    Like for all goofy Prius behavior, first check the condition of your 12 volt battery. Low capacity there can cause nearly anything to happen as it starves the computers of power.

    You can search other threads on how to use the car to do this, or use a voltmeter on the jump terminal under the hood.
    Here's one of may threads to start with if you need help in checking your 12 volt battery:
    http://priuschat.com/forums/newbie-forum/73400-weird-stuff-happening-mpgs-dropping-test-battery.html
     
  3. qbee42

    qbee42 My other car is a boat

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    I would first check the 12V battery as posted above. The varying nature of which lock doesn't open most likely relates to not having enough power to overcome friction at the lock. Depending on how each lock seated, some days one may stick, other days a different one. If the 12V battery is weak, the actuators will have a hard time overcoming the friction.

    Tom
     
  4. cnschult

    cnschult Active Member

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    thanks so much, most of my trips are under 10 minutes, and with running accessories (I only use the JBL) I do know that means the alternator may not have enough time to charge the battery back up. We had battery problems with our rx330 so I've got a decent Black and Decker microprocessor-controlled starter/Charger, so tomorrow I'll hook it up and put it on a slow 2-amp trickle charge for about 6 hours or so, its computer controlled so it'll shut off by itself once full.

    does anyone know if the stock battery is wet/gell, AGM or is it a traditional battery?? that's one of the options on the charger.

    here is the report from the Prius Maintenance Mode:
    no load on battery: 11.9V (should be 12.4 to 12.8)
    load on battery: 11.6-11.7 (should be above 12.0)
    charging state: 14.2-14.3 (should be 13.6 to 14.4)
    so the battery is definitely a little low (to be taken care of tomorrow) but the charging system is just fine, so why don't the power locks work when the car and ICE are running?? isn't there power aplenty once the car is started???
     
  5. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    The original equipment battery is supposed to be AGM. Some owners have reported their OE battery is wet cell.

    I agree that if you continue to have lock problems when the car is READY, that the 12V battery is not likely to be the source of those problems.

    However, let's start with charging the battery. Once it is back to full charge, then if you still have lock problems that are intermittent maybe you'll need to have the mechanisms lubricated.
     
  6. qbee42

    qbee42 My other car is a boat

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    Just a minor point to correct your terminology: The Prius does not have an alternator in the conventional sense. It uses a DC to DC converter to power the 12V bus and charge the 12V battery from the HV system.

    Tom
     
  7. cnschult

    cnschult Active Member

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    okay I just started to charge the battery under AGM mode, after I took the red plastic cover off the positive terminal, I can see why other members told me to disconnect the negative terminal instead of the positive terminal as there is so much crap connected to the positive side.

    I've disconnected the negative lead to the battery and moved it behind some carpeting out of the way and will charge the battery under the lowest (2amp) setting, nothing is disconnected on the positive terminal, someone let me know if this is wrong . . . immediately . . . thanks
     
  8. 2009Prius

    2009Prius A Wimpy DIYer

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    Can we just use the jump start terminal to charge the battery so nothing is disconnected and we keep all the settings?
     
  9. cnschult

    cnschult Active Member

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    no, I read in other posts that jump start terminal under the hood is only for jump start & nothing else. If you could charge the prius at the jump start terminal they would have called it an auxiliary positive terminal.
     
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  10. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    You could use the dedicated jumpstart terminal to charge the battery, however that is not a recommended procedure.

    What cnschult did is exactly right under the circumstances where some potential flakiness has been noted in the electronics. By disconnecting the neg battery cable, that will allow the various ECUs to reset.

    Another reason to disconnect the neg battery terminal is that in the event your wrench touches the body, no harm is done. If you disconnect the pos battery terminal first and your wrench causes a short to the body, that will create a big spark at minimum and you may hurt the battery, yourself (by jerking your hand away in surprise and bumping your elbow or your head on something) or the car (if a spark ignites some hydrogen gas).

    Using the 2A setting, I suggest you let the charger run for a 12-hour period at minimum.
     
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  11. cnschult

    cnschult Active Member

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    well charging is done, using the AGM setting at 2volts, here is the results:
    it ran at 2.7 for about twenty minutes
    it decreased to 1.9 for another hour or so
    it decreased to 1.2 for another hour or so
    it then shut off and stated the battery was 'FULL'

    new results of the Maintenance Mode report:
    no load on battery: 12.2V (should be 12.4 to 12.8)
    load on battery: 11.9 (should be above 12.0)
    charging state: 14.2 (should be 13.6 to 14.4)

    the battery definitely improved after charging but there is no change I needed as the power locks still won't lock or unlock either front door (that's this week, next week it'll be 2 different doors)

    What is the next step?? lubricating the locking mechanisms??
    we had the same problem in our '92 Camry so Toyota's achilles heel must be power locks.
     
  12. qbee42

    qbee42 My other car is a boat

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    Do the power locks work okay when you use the internal power lock switch?

    Tom
     
  13. cnschult

    cnschult Active Member

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    no power locks at all with sks fob or internal switch, and all wiring harnesses are solidly connected, locks can easily turned 90 degrees into lock/unlock position, but to get into the car I have to go into the back seat and reach over (I'm not that tall), I'm probably gonna have to remove the headrest for now.
     
  14. qbee42

    qbee42 My other car is a boat

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    I assume this is also true when the car is in Ready. Given the voltages and that assumption, it sounds like you have enough voltage that the locks should work. My next question was going to be about the wiring harnesses, but you already answered that.

    If you have access to one of the actuators, you could measure the voltage at the actuator when it is being cycled. As it now stands, it seems to me that the problem is either mechanical, in which case you need to lubricate the actuators, or it is an electrical problem specific to the controller driving the actuators. While not high on my list of suspects, it is possible that the lock controller has a bad electrical connection and is putting out a weak pulse. I think it is more likely that you need to lubricate, but it could be either.

    Tom
     
  15. smartalec89

    smartalec89 The Official Alaskan

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    I suggest you take it to the dealer or completely disconnect the battery and reset the car. It might just be grumpy. :mmph:
     
  16. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Yes.

    Also it appears that your 12V battery's capacity is low (which is why it only could be charged 2-1/2 hours, yet the voltage under no-load is still low) so you might want to think about replacing it in the near future, as a preventive maintenance move. I don't think that a new battery will help your door lock issue.