My AVIC Navi install

Just finished my navi install, and thought i'd post some notes...

Installed Pioneer Z110BT ($680 Amazon/6th Av with $200 rebate), GEX-P20XM sat radio, Infinity ref component speakers.

As usual, everything pops apart - which is nice when working installs...

I put in the HU last week (used Scosche wiring adapter) - surprised no one makes an actual Pioneer radio - Toyota cable. You take the Scosche, and connect the wires to the Pioneer harness(s). Added the PAC-SWI PS steering thingy. In all, the HU went in in around 15 minutes. There are 4 10mm bolts holding the HU in. After replacing the HU, I always just hand tighten the bolts back in (since it seems you need to pull it occasionally).

Since I forgot to program the PAC, and needed to install the XM, I pulled it out yesterday, put in the XM (fits nicely behind the HU), and programmed the PAC. Everything seemed fine, XM sounded good, so I buttoned it all up.

On my first drive, I noticed the XM fizzing out. Lesson is locate the antennas in a good spot. I decided to go with the front squaker location (put the antennas under grill in the front right of the car).

So I tore everything back out, and went at the antenna.

Pulled the A pillar (they're easy to unsnap - but there is a plastic latch that needs to be twisted 90 degrees once you pull the plastic loose). Then you grab the speaker grill, and yank up and back - it pops out.

Since I was already at this point, I decided to put in my Infinity Reference Components (6.5" + tweeter) - cause the tweeter would be mounted in the A pillar. I pulled the squaker (Toyota tweeter) - 2 10mm bolts.

Its connected by 4 wires - looks like it's because they have built in passive crossover - so my theory was 2 wires from the HU, 2 wires then go to the doors. I found the R+ and R- form the HU (note they are different colors). Pins 1 and 2 are the same (R-), 3 is from the HU (R+), and 4 is the crossover output. I took the squaker, and physically broke the connector, and cut the wires. This allowed me to re-use it as a 'plug in'. I then took the Infinity crossover, and wired this 'connector' to it. You need to remove the squaker capacitor, and solder a lead to pin 3 - put it makes for a very nice easy install later. I did the same on the left side.

Tweeter housings were sanded to match the contour of the A pillar, then screwed in, and wire run from them to the crossover. You then plug in the crossover to the 'existing car plug', and slide the thing into the squaker hole - it fits fine.

I then made a platform to sit on top in the hole to put in GPS and XM antennas - note - you need to fish the antenna wires to the HU.

Everything went back fine.

Took off the door panels (2 screws, and then they unsnap - then remove electric cables), drilled out the existing 6x9 speakers (they weigh like 4 ounces each!), then like the squakers, I broke off the connector to re-use it. I left the wires to the speaker cone attached to the connector - this allowed me to solder that connector to the speakers, and makes it modular... Had bought some 6x9 adapters - mounted them, then the 6.5" speakers, and put it back together...

I put the USB into the top glove box (it pulls out) - but found this a bad iPhone place - so it was moved to run down the 'bridge', and comes out beside the driver seat.

The sound very much blows me away... I've done many installs, but between the Pioneer HU, and Infinity speakers, it is really wild...

I still have a 4 channel amp (but now think that is crazy overkill) - and an under seat subwoofer to put in. I would've done it - but a large lead 12V power seemed too much a hassle. I also have a 1500w inverter to put in...

Edit: The speakers were Infinity Reference Component 6030CS. The 6x9 adapter was Scosche (unknown P/N)

Some pics are here - forgot to do the door ones...

 

I only needed the stock Scosche (or Metra - I think any 6x9 to 6.5" adapter would be fine) adapter kit. If you do an install, I recommend using the stock connectors (though there is some soldering) - it just makes things easy.

Back speakers are still stock...

The Infinity crossovers were mated with the 'squaker' modified connector. This makes the whole front install easy. After you connect the things (Toyota modified connector, wires, front tweeter) - the Infinity crossover slides into the opening - then you plug in the Toyota wire plug, then slide it further down. On the left side, you have to twist it a bit, but it slides in fine...

Sound is amazing - but now I am thinking it is almost too much treble on *certain* applications (some FM channels that I have listened to - but mostly everything is great).

AM, DVD movies amazing - some FM, XM seems to much detail on the high.

I've had many very very highend systems for home - and this is just different from normal car stuff - which may be part of the listening experience. Imaging and sound in general on DVDs is amazing (but that is Dolby encoded). AM sounds great (but that has a limited bandwidth). XM seems very very good on average. FM seems to be bright with too much treble (on some stations/music - I have not run any kind of real analysis - this is my feel).

To get a nice good soundstage in front of you is nice. I still have not moved any settings - so who knows what that might do. I do know that this is as close to nice highend (home) as I have heard to date. That on certain tracks, and certain sources.

I also know it sounds harsh on certain tracks/sources.

My thoughts move towards break-in (which does exist on some speakers) - or just moving the settings from flat to (???). The speakers cost almost nothing relatively speaking ($110 current) - but install is a massive pain - I took little notes - so whoever does it must use an ohmmeter, and have some basic soldering skills - along with an assortment of: random sized wire nuts, crimping kit, good strippers, nice drill set etc.

The other thing I did not mention - ohming out your connection - when you check it, the difference between side one and side two is 3 ohms. So if you have a cheap DVM, make sure you really look at what the connection is.

If someone has the base Prius electrics, I'd be happy to lend a kind ear This forced me to play around a lot, and waste way too much cerebral energy last night..

Edit: I used 100% stock wiring - even re-used the wires from the 6x9 connector that went to the speaker cones (copper) - I just cut it off at the speaker - that gives enough play that you can solder its end to the Infinity. Then after mounting, just plug into the Toyota wire harness.... I did slather much electrical tape to keep everything insulated at the connections...

 

I saw those 6x8s - but it seems from a real audio standpoint, there's a reason a $5K+ home speaker does not have oblong components....

Also, the straight 6.5" is widely reviewed and a known commodity...

Edit: I would add that it is funny - I believe the front 2.5" "squaker" weighs the same as the 6x9 speaker (including its plastic mount).

I think (from other posts) you must use the existing wires due to size (or lack thereof) - you can't run new wires to the doors. Tearing apart the speakers you are replacing makes sense from this perspective...

 

Antenna: I just connected the blue wire - I'm not sure how else you'd connect it...

For wiring, I used the 2A

Haven't played much with the iPhone - but it does all plug and play - when you plug in, it downloads stuff to the HU. Then the menus allow you to go to playlists etc... As a nice feature, it does charge the iPhone too (Chinese thing didn't).

 

They are running from the Pioneer - and there is more than enough power for them. I have a 4 channel amp, but think it is crazy to add - the amplification on the Pioneer is more than fine - keep in mind the Infinity Ref are very efficient.

They are slightly bright on FM, but as a more critical listener, I may say they are FAR more accurate. The brightness does not exist anywhere else (XM, DVD, iPod etc).

Haven't played with the EQ - and won't until I've logged some good time and like what's there - I did add the under-passengers-chair powered subwoofer (Boss 8" form memory). Not sure what that does yet... It is an easy 15 minute install ...

The speakers were a very large upgrade in themselves. More so than head unit in terms of sound (no duhh)...

 

Just FYI - the key to the bypass is to get the connector out, and move it. There is a pic on AVIC411 that shows the side of the connector - by the pin - you push in a spot, and it looks like a square hole will emerge - that allows the pin to come out easily. Once out, try to bend the 'catch' out so when it is pushed into the next hole, it sticks.

Looking at the pic helped me alot... For PAC steering instructions, don't use what is sent with the unit - instead go to the site, enter your car - and use those.