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Please help! 2002 prius P3125 inf 304&307

Discussion in 'Generation 1 Prius Discussion' started by liteguy87, Apr 21, 2010.

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  1. jk450

    jk450 New Member

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    Other wires are bundled into the same wire loom, particularly under the dash.

    Did you get the same info codes with your first P3125?
     
    #21 jk450, May 24, 2010
  2. liteguy87

    liteguy87 2002 prius owner

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    Sorry about the delay, I've been out of town quite some time.

    I didn't have toyota test the original inverter. It wasn't charging the 12v battery so I know it had to be replaced regardless. Not sure if that is enough to send the car into failsafe. Is there some way to trick the car out of failsafe temporarily?

    The delay is being caused by a lack in availability of funds. :(
     
    #22 liteguy87, Jun 30, 2010
  3. liteguy87

    liteguy87 2002 prius owner

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    Hi everyone!

    I finally got another inverter (#3) in and a day to work on the prius... so here is an update.

    I installed inverter #3 and it would not start the car... so I put inverter #2 back in the car. Inverter #2 actually starts the ICE and lets the car crawl very slowly with almost no torque. I did do a little troubleshooting to try to rule out possible problems. I did try the main system board from each inverter in inverter #2 and got the same results (ICE starts and car crawls). I did jump the safety on the connector for MG2 to take readings since I thought it could be the problem. I put the car in "B" and blocked the gas to rev the engine/motors. MG2 gave a reading of 0volts between all phases so the inverter is not powerig MG2.

    Some of the forum suggested I test the wireharness as the tech. guides point almost exclusively to it. I tried cutting/jumping/splicing the mentioned yellow wire (I9-4). The wire read 0volts after both ends were cut so the problem is not a battery short.

    Does anyone have an idea what would cause the car to shutdown the 'motor gate' for MG2? All three of the inverter boards have the same result so I ruled that out (unless its another part of the inverter inside inverter#2) The signal originates from the inverter (going to HV-ECU) so I don't think the problem is the HV-ECU. The error codes are p3125 (inf 304&307).

    Thanks again everyone!
     
    #23 liteguy87, Aug 18, 2010
  4. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    You've swapped the HV ECU? Opps, I see that was an early change.

    Ok, let's go over current symptoms:

    1) Prius starts
    2) Inverter charges 12 V system
    3) MG1 charges traction battery (?)
    4) Prius moves at very slow speed
    5) Still has only P3125 code

    Is there any evidence MG2 runs at all say in "R"?

    It looks like vincent1449p may have figured out how to find the subcodes:
    http://priuschat.com/forums/generat...7-triangle-death-scangauge-2.html#post1165242

    This is enough for me. Time to get a ScanGauge and follow vincent1449p's lead.

    Bob Wilson
     
    #24 bwilson4web, Aug 18, 2010
  5. Sisterwrath

    Sisterwrath New Member

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    I just realized that this is GEN 1 forums. My Prius is a 2005. Sorry if this should have been posted elsewhere!

    Sorry to necro this thread, but it seems to be quite similar to my issue. I burnt up my inverter/converter cooling pump which then damaged the wiring harness in the main engine room (likely because I pulled an idiot move and replaced the fuse that was blown with a higher amp fuse to limp about a mile after the first fuse blew). I had the pump replaced and the wires going from the fuse box to the pump replaced, since the dealership wanted $4000 to replace the entire wire harness (the rewiring and replacement pump still ran $1000). So now I have the P3125 info 304 code. These are the only codes that it is throwing. It will start, but it shuts down after about 30 seconds. The coolant pump has been verified at the dealership to be in good working.

    I was hoping to get some direction on the possibility of repairing this myself. I do not have the funds to drop $4000 on a car that I bought used for $4000 and I would dearly love to continue driving it.

    I was confused as to what to disconnect to test this wire and exactly what the procedure would be to test it. Am I checking the wire against the body of the car or am I supposed to check it against the other wires in the bundle? If I do find that it's shorted, how feasible would it be to replace that run of wiring? I looked at some schematics and it seems like a long run from the inverter/converter to the ECU.

    Any assistance would be immensely appreciated!

     
    #25 Sisterwrath, Nov 30, 2011
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