Failed solenoids (all of them!) - flaw with 2006 Prius

Dave W
Do you use the smart key features or do you just use the fob to open the doors? I never use the fob! When I open the door I touch the inside of the handle and open the door. If your 12v battery looses its charge there is a procedure spelled out in your manual for opening the rear hatch in order to replace the battery. You could also jumper it under the hood in order to open the hatch. I have had no problems with the solenoids!Hal

 

This isn't a common problem. I recall some issues with lock lubrication, but not the actuators.

What can you tell us about how you use your Prius? Does it sit outside? What sort of climate? How many miles?

Tom

 

i've never heard of the problem. Can you link to the threads that caused you to claim this is a common problem (a flaw)?

 

I've never heard of this problem before, so if it's a common one, I haven't stumbled across the threads. My 06 hasn't ever had door lock problems (knock on wood), yet.

Are you still on the original 12 volt? Have you tested it via the procedure at http://priuschat.com/forums/newbie-forum/73400-weird-stuff-happening-mpgs-dropping-test-battery.html after the car has sat for at least 8 hours, preferably overnight? Your claim "In all cases, there was a period of 2-4 days in which the lock operation became intermittent, followed by total failure and no recovery" makes me think you have a dying 12 volt. It's due for replacement soon anyway, if it's not already toast.

Does your Prius have SKS? (black strips on the back of the 2 front door handles and black buttons there + 1 at the hatch)

FWIW, in Consumer Reports, the 06 Prius has a much better than avg. reliability rating. Body hardware has the best possible rating which is supposed to cover locks. Power equipment though is rated in the middle/average which includes "body control module, keyless entry..." amongst other things. I'd include your problems in one or both of these areas.

 

Truly an odd story. It does sound like something specific to the car or its environment. Dave, you may wish to save a defective part for a bit of sleuthing.

 

Since LA is a relatively hot area, I wouldn't be surprised if the 12 volt is toast.

Do keep in mind that on the Prius, the 12 volt does NOT start the ICE (engine). A dying 12 volt will not exhibit symptoms found on non-hybrids such as slow starter motor cranking or inability to crank. (The Prius has no dedicated starter motor.)

As for asking the dealer to check the battery... I think regulars here will attest to such dealer "checks" of it to be frequently infective and/or inaccurate, for whatever reason.

I replaced the 12 volt on mine in 2/2011, as a precaution as its voltages after sitting overnight via the test I cited were marginal (usually a few tenths below 12 volts while in ACC mode - at the Vehicle Signal Check step). I bought my 06 new in mid January 06 and had ~50K miles on it, at the time.

 

I have heard of this problem before. The vehicle was my 97 Ford Explorer. Two of three door lock solenoids failed within the first 5 or 6 years. Haven't had any problems with the door locks on my Prius or GF's Avalon though.

 

Hopefully it is something simple like the battery. At nearly 5yrs old it is probably on its way out.

 

Dave,

I've got a 2005 Prius with 108,000 miles on it & I've never had any problems with my door locks. Do you do a lot of short errands daily that have you getting in & out all day long & causing you to constantly lock & unlock many times? Also, do you do a double click each time you go to get in (making ALL doors unlock)? If you're doing that with no other persons waiting to get in at any of the other doors, then that could put un-necessary wear & tear on the rest of the lock solenoids causing them to fail prematurely (including the hatch one).

One other possibility I can think of is if you drive in a dusty climate with the windows down a lot, then you'd never believe how much dirt & fuzz can get in past the window weatherstripping (the window goes below the weatherstripping leaving an open pathway for all that dust & dirt to get in) & accumulate on the locking rods or shafts & gum them up causing extra strain as the solenoids attempt to do their job.

Maybe just removing the inner door panels & cleaning & lubing the locks & shafts/rods will bring things back to life without having to replace the solenoids. I had an '83 Nissan Sentra that the manual pop-up lock buttons worked so hard on (& the key was even harder to turn) that I almost couldn't get into the car any more. Spraying "Lock-Ease" in through the key holes didn't help all that much, so I took the front inner door panels off to better get at the lock cylinders & I found all kinds of heavy "furr" & dried out gummy grease all over the locking mechanisms & their "remote" linkages & rods. So I pulled off the rear door panels too & gave all 4 locks, linkages, & rods a thorough cleaning & re-lubing and what a difference it made.

Ken (in Bolton,Ct)

 

I like this idea, but unfortunately I have no idea how to prove it.