Inverter Replacement: 2002 Prius

Well, I just got a confirmation on my P3125 error code by the Toyota dealer on my 2002 Prius...it's the inverter. Says it will cost $4400 to replace.

I know I can purchase a new replacement part for about $2500, but I've already purchased a salvage unit for $300, so I'll be trying that first.

Has anyone documented this procedure? I am planning on documenting it as I go and will post it on my blog at Idoneitmyself on wordpress. However, if anyone has some documentation to follow it would be nice to review it prior to my work. I've been searching the web and can't find anything, so let me know if you are aware of something that might help.

I'm also planning on getting the shop manual downloaded. If anyone has the chapter on this, I could use it.

Thanks...Russ

 

Well, I guess the answer is "no." Okay, so I did it yesterday and documented my procedure on my blog. Unfortunately, I don't have enough posts to put a stupid link in this post (that's an interesting rule). So, you can find it on my blog on wordpress.

The name of the blog is Idoneitmyself dot wordpress dot com.

The name of the post is replacing-the-inverter-assembly-on-a-2002-1st-gen-prius.

 

Thanks for the URL post!

 

FYI, this 2002 Prius has about 118,000 miles on it...almost all city driving.

Okay, so I replaced the inverter with a salvage unit and have some other "issues"
that I've been working on.

I was concerned there might be a problem with the inverter coolant pump (although I'm positive it was operating prior to the replacement, because I could see the coolant level high/low in the reservoir when it was pumping) so I went ahead and ordered a new one and replaced it. I've been working on getting the air purged and I believe I've done it using the "start the pump, stop the pump, open the air bleed valves" procedure and, in addition, using a hand-operated brake bleeder vacuum pump to also suck the air out through the bleeder valves.

All was working for my short drive through the neighborhood and I was about to try a longer drive when it threw a code. I got the "triangle" and put it immediately back in the garage. During my short drive, it was recharging the traction battery and I watched the display go from fully discharged (got the "turtle" icon in reverse) to fully charged (with no more "turtle" icon in reverse).

So, I'm going to borrow the scan tool from Autozone again and see what the code is. Will do that later this evening.

If anyone has any experience/comments, I'm all ears.

Thanks...Russ

 

Got the scan tool and have recevied a number of DTCs, p3006, p3191, p3016...I'm sure there will be others.

Scanning the forum, I see I might have issues with the traction battery and/or ECU. I'm guessing the battery. However, before I go there I'm going to get the auxillary battery tested to insure I don't have a low voltage aux battery causing weird electrical problems.

If I do need a new traction battery I see that several people have rebuilt their batteries by purchasing cells on the internet. Is it possible to purchase all new cells and start fresh? I'm concerned purchasing used cells would simply give me a problem next year. Or, are the newer cells so much better that they never fail?

Trying to get my baby going again...

 

Oh, and by the way, when I took the car to the dealership in Richardson, Texas, they diagnosed the inverter as being the problem and were all ready to replace it but really wanted to sell me on cleaning the throttle body.

I took a look at the butterfly in the throttle body and operated the throttle by hand and didn't notice anything binding. Just for grins I shot a little carb cleaner on the throttle body butterfly plate to clean it off, but it really wasn't bad looking at all. In fact, it was still shiny.

Another attempt to upsell in a depressed economy? Or, simply another attempt to upsell?

 

Thanks for the great info! I need someone to bounce my ideas off of, as I don't think the dealership would be very willing to participate in my dialog. Also, I'm not sure they really have much experience.

So, the simplest thing would be to replace the cells in position #6. Can this be done with Gen II cells or, if I take this approach, must I use Gen I cells?

There's a part of me that just wants to purchase a new battery from Toyota and be done with it (assuming that fixes the problem).

 

So I guess the question is, would a "new" battery from Toyota use the newer cells or would they still use the older cells? That might make me decide to go with a rebuilt battery that uses the newer cells.

 

Thanks, Patrick.

If I replace an individual cell, I may be doing it again in the next few months. Plus, I'll be replacing it with old cells, so that looks risky.

I'm thinking the most expedient way to do this is to purchase a rebuilt pack with Gen II cells. Can I save much money putting it together myself?

Also, how much does a pack weigh? 38 cells @ x lbs/each + misc weight = ??

Thanks again...Russ