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Enginer PHEV

Discussion in 'Prius PHEV Plug-In Modifications' started by f16bmathis, Oct 14, 2011.

  1. f16bmathis

    f16bmathis New Member

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    Hey,

    Just bought an Enginer PHEV 2kw kit. I installed it and am having a few problems. I am working with thier support (very helpful) but wanted to run this at both ends.

    After installing, I ran the car around the block. Starting the car, it started as a normal Prius. The engine came on shortly after starting. Didn't think it was supposed to. The Prius pack then started draining to nothing! I had error codes for low Prius pack, check engine, the triangle warning. As I rounded the block, the engine started revving at high RPM's. The pack went to fully charged in seconds, then started going back down again, motor runniung high rpm's till I got home and shut her off.

    Also, when I plugged the Prius in, the charger showed red. I then turned off the PHEV C/B on the side of the box, and the charger showed green right away. Turned the C/B back on and the charger goes to red again. Is this normal?
     
  2. seilerts

    seilerts Battery Curmudgeon

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    If Eric Powers charges by the hour to look at your system, it is well worth it. He is in Madison and has the most experience with the system.

    http://priuschat.com/forums/private-messages/send-to/1015/

    Was your error code P0A80? That can happen if the current output from the converter is too high.
     
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  3. MJFrog

    MJFrog Active Member

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    The first thing I would check is that the polarity from all components to each other is correct. Especially between DC/DC converter and Prius battery, but also from charger to battery pack and battery pack to converter. Do this for the bumper plug to the charger as well.

    I have a 2kwh system as well (however, it's >2 YO and probably doesn't look much like yours). Depending on whether you hooked up the EV mode connectors or not will determine if the ICE starts at power-up or not. Mine will start after the initial delay unless I press my EV button.
     
  4. ericbecky

    ericbecky Hybrid Battery Hero

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    On Enginer forums you mentioned that the 3000w converter was not bolted down. If it banged around at all, it certainly could have knocked the settings around as well.

    If you have to install new parts that come from Enginer I suggest that you always bench test the individual components prior to installing them in the car. That means every switch, circuit breaker, converter and charger.

    You'll want to use your handheld multimeter to check the voltage and amperage output of that converter.

    As far as the engine coming on, it will normally come on shortly after starting. That is normal. Not sure why you think it would not?

    I would suggest that you purchase a ScanGauge (let me know if you need one) so that you can clear any codes.

    Any idea what the code was that was thrown or what your Prius Battery's State of Charge was at the time? I've been seeing some things happening when SOC gets too low.
     
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  5. f16bmathis

    f16bmathis New Member

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    I've wired and upgraded the avionics (flight controls, radar, ECM, nav, targeting pods... on the F-111 and the F-16 for 20 years, built my own Chevy S10 Electric Vehicle among other things I tinker with. I should be (really stress "should") able to install and get this thing running without spending anything extra. If not, I'll send it back.

    It showed up at the house yesterday misssing the long bolts that hold the 5000W converter down in the PHEV box, so it broke both the cooling fans in shipping, no HV wiring, no wires to connect the switch to the ECM connectors, and after watching the video and online manual, they dont show where to connect the 5000W converter to the pack, though the video does show them pointing at the lugs and asking where to connect it, but they never answered or came back to that.

    Did get support (really quick) they sent a picture showing where the HV wires go, as I have it now by looking at another site, on the side of the relays not on the battery side. They are also sending parts that I was missing.
     
  6. f16bmathis

    f16bmathis New Member

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    The codes were P3023 & P3024, Prius pack below min.
     
  7. f16bmathis

    f16bmathis New Member

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    I'll check the inverter output and connections tonight, yesterday I had finished and took a test drive.

    As far as the engine coming on, I "assumed" I would be able to drive the 1.5 miles to my daughters school and home as I have been in EV mode without using any gas. Shame on me for not reading an operators manual!:) I may have to modify this once I get it working so I can still use the EV button, if possible.

    I do have a ScanGauge, cleared the codes, P3023 & P3024. The state of charge had run down to nothing, and then up to full, then back down again, engine running wildly till I got around the block and shut her off. The engine eventually stopped spinning thereafter.
     
  8. Flaninacupboard

    Flaninacupboard Senior Member

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    Did you disconnect the 12V battery during installation? this will force the battery ECU to recalculate it's SOC, which can be difficult for it to do, especially if you are adding current it's not expecting!
     
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  9. seilerts

    seilerts Battery Curmudgeon

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    You may have reversed polarity on the converter - battery connection. Or the converter is defective and is sending out high levels of RF noise, which could confuse the battery ECU.
     
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  10. f16bmathis

    f16bmathis New Member

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    It was suggested by an electronics tech that was helping me, but I couldn't see any reason to, so we didn't.
     
  11. ericbecky

    ericbecky Hybrid Battery Hero

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    You sound like the right kind of person for the Enginer system. A person who is willing to tinker, which is what you'll need to do once in a while.

    Since the Enginer system doesn't mess with the software, you will not be able to lock it into EV mode. So Unless you are able to generally run the 1.5 miles in EV mode now, you may not be able to do it with the Enginer system either. I would be very interested in talking with you about the system (no charge!) so feel free to give me a ring 608-729-4082, depending on speeds to your daughter's school, you may have options to lock it in EV mode.

    If you have had an S10 EV and are running a 2kwh Enginer system, my guess is you may be wanting to upgrade it to 4kwh in the future. If you are interested, I have a customer with 8kwh system he is selling for $3,000.

    Just curious, but when did you purchase this Enginer system? And did you get it sent to you in Wisconsin?
     
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  12. f16bmathis

    f16bmathis New Member

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    Checked connections. HV is good, I have a good ground for the 3 wire switch, the EV wire was previously connected, so all I did was put a connector on that wire from the switch (forget what color, but I double checked it) and the last wire for "ready"? I put on a green wire on the second harness as thier video showed.

    Does anyone actually have a plug # and pin# for that?
     
  13. f16bmathis

    f16bmathis New Member

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    Sounds like what I'd want, $3000 and it worked?
    414-630-5305 Brian
     
  14. f16bmathis

    f16bmathis New Member

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    I tried to start the car today, after ensuring the HV was connected right and the 3 wires from the switch were correct. the car wont go to anything but neutral! And it won't start. I found the 12V battery at 9V, got it charged up tp 12.7V and I can still not get anywhere except neutral! Also seems the 12V battery is not being charged on its own. I heard the engine does not have to be on unless the pack is below a certain voltage, but the pack is all green. Checked all fuses, all good, even the one on the battery connection. Any ideas? Did the PHEV burn up the charging circuit?

    Almost ready to just return the PHEV.
     
  15. f16bmathis

    f16bmathis New Member

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    Had the battery on a charger and now everything seems to work fine...with the phev removed.

    I'm going to see if I can get anything out of the HV converter before I connect it up again. And I still need to know...one small (4 pin?) cable goes to the front of the BMS cause it has two sockets that would fit it, but one is marked L and the other R, but the connector is not marked. The back side has larger connectors both marked L and R as the cables are also marked and so both of those have been installed, but where does that smaller one go? Or does it not matter which one?
     
  16. lopezjm2001

    lopezjm2001 Senior Member

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    Plugging the wrong plug into the wrong inlet will damage the BMS16D and converter. I have experienced this first hand. A very expensive mistake. Be very careful that you do not get the labels for left and right mixed up or you will blow it.
     
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  17. f16bmathis

    f16bmathis New Member

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    Its not those two plugs I'm worried about. They were marked. There's another smaller one that looks like it goes on the other side. On that side, there are two places it can go. Those sockets are labeled L and R, but that single smaller connector is not labeled, but will fit in either socket. There's no other socket anywhere I can find that will fit this plug.
     
  18. f16bmathis

    f16bmathis New Member

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    Just read a response from Enginer. That plug is for temp, it can go in either socket.
     
  19. lopezjm2001

    lopezjm2001 Senior Member

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    I suspect that you are using BMS16C. Which BMS are you using?

    The single small plug with just two wires is the signal to drop out the converter due to low battery level. The two plugs with four wires each are temperature sensors inside the battery pack. Hope this helps.

    You should ask Enginer support to give you access to the Enginer user forum where you will get better and more informed responses from Enginer installers.
     
  20. ericbecky

    ericbecky Hybrid Battery Hero

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    I replied to your thread on the enginer forums with a link to their printable installation brochure. It identifies the pins.
    http://www.enginer.us/f/index.php?topic=2309.msg10088#msg10088

    I got you voice mail and will give you a call.
     
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