Excessive idling after service

Are you on the original 12 volt? If so, it's toast.

Run the test at http://priuschat.com/forums/newbie-forum/73400-weird-stuff-happening-mpgs-dropping-test-battery.html after the car's sat overnight and tell us the values at each step.

A bad 12 volt might cause such an issue.

On HVAC, make sure you aren't using Auto and fan is OFF.

 

I have never received a car back from a stealership with as many bars as when it arrived, its almost always drained, I think they leave it on for hours when they're working on them.

personally, if I were a mechanic I wouldn't work on a car that could turn on at any second w/o warning, I'd want to make sure it was off before I got underneath it.

but after 15 minutes things usually return to normal, when you do the test, don't flash your lights on and off thrice, instead hit the display button and press the upper left and lower left corner of the inner box a few times until the diagnostic stage is entered, thus saving your headlights from unnecessary shock. (especially important if you have HIDs)

 

When was the service done, and how far have you driven since then?

 

Ideas:

1. Turn the fan on and set the temperature to max cold. Turn off.
2. When it was in for service, they ran the car in Ig-On to bleed the inverter pump, and this has left your 12V battery permanently impaired. Once these batteries are more than a few years old, they are extremely intolerant to being left in Ig-On (aka key on, "engine" off) for more than a couple minutes. Run Richard's test as linked by Andrew after a cold soak.
3. If they drained/filled the engine coolant as part of the 100K service, they may not have bled it correctly, resulting in an air pocket at the coolant temperature sensor and a subsequently low reading. After the engine has warmed up, turn the fan on high and set to Max Hot, verify that hot air blows continuously, and listen for gurgling. Also check the coolant overflow tank for proper Full Hot and Full Cold levels.

 

I've not used the display trick outlined above but for the 12 volt test that I linked to earlier, one doesn't need to turn the hedlights on/off (putting unnceessary cycles on HIDs, if equipped). It's sufficient to go between off and the parking light position. This is what I do when I run my test since I have HIDs.

 

The only thing that charges the battery is the 12v rail coming from the inverter (silver box under the hood). Now, the HV battery, engine, and/or braking as well as any combination thereof feeds this inverter. So yes the braking does indirectly charge the 12v.

And if you are on your original battery, it is a good idea to get it changed as preventative maintenance. You may have a couple months or years left out of it. But for $180, sometimes it is just smarter to know you won't be stranded somewhere.

 

It WOULD be a good idea to get a new 12v. battery. The real experts please correct me if I'm worng. But if the 12v. battery was in good shape it should have charged itself back up on it's own and not required the dealer to recharge it. Better to replace it now then get stuck in the middle of no where on a cold crewl night.