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A Little help please...

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Technical Discussion' started by justjeff, Jan 18, 2012.

  1. justjeff

    justjeff Junior Member

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    Thanks for the HV DTC info and the other help. I think I will feel better to see what is happening with the valves before I try starting it again...even though any damage is most likely done by now with the short time frames I let the engine run so far. But before running it again I plan on getting the cooling system hooked up. Unbelievably on that note, it appears nobody in Denver has the lower coolant hose for the ICE...I will have to try a salvage yard on Monday or wait til the end of the week next week for someone to get one shipped here...crazy!
    I suppose the price Patrick said for coolant seems reasonable enough that I may as well get it from Toyota. If the engine noise goes away, it does only have 76K miles on it. So I may as well put the money in it and drive the wheels off of it....and probably do the Plug In conversion..Thanks Colorado for the hefty rebate!
     
  2. justjeff

    justjeff Junior Member

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    So I put the cooling system in and had no problems getting the inverter bled. Also have coolant in the ICE system. SO I start it, and it runs for a bit, then shuts down, showing main battery icon with the +/- in it.
    So I pull the 12V - battery post, reinstall and restart the car. ICE is running, showing charging HV battery. HV battery somewhat quickly drains, and main battery light comes on, car shuts off....The car sat for about 9-10 months totalprior to me buying and getting it to this point. Now the car doesnt want to start. I made sure the 12V posts were tight, and the battery shows 12.76V. I dont have a load tester. Also made sure the doors were closed when trying to run it and get the HV battery to charge. I would have thought the engine running should have charged the HV battery....And strangely, I have moved the car with the HV battery and it showed about 50% charge today when I started the engine..
    BTW, didnt get it to run long enough to see if the engine noise is going away. Maybe a run time of 5 minutes, tops...
     
  3. seilerts

    seilerts Battery Curmudgeon

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    Whenever you remove 12V power, the battery ECU will reset. The battery is not draining quickly, it is the ECU starting at a default value and then adjusting SoC based on what it sees. One critical point, do you see arrows going from the engine to the battery when you first start it? That would indicate that everything is normal, except for the HV battery. Time to get those codes read again.

    Eric at Adopt-A-Part can hook you up with a reconditioned battery, if needed.
     
  4. justjeff

    justjeff Junior Member

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    I do see arrows showing charge from the ICE to the battery...but after a couple of minutes the car shuts off and shows the main battery icon along with some other crap that I dont remember right now, like the big red triangle on the dash. Oh and a car with an exclamation point in it.

    I guess I will finish putting the car together and throw it on a trailer and have Adopt-A-Part run codes. Will the ridiculously expensive crappy Snap on OBD computer work for Prius codes?

    Adopt-A-Part is making out great on my project Prius. lol. I wonder if they have a HV charger...I would guess so, seeing as they recondition HVs unless they charge one cell at a time?

    Thanks for the help!
     
  5. justjeff

    justjeff Junior Member

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    So I played with the car again briefly today. I noticed when I start the car it shows charging when in P. When I put it in gear I dont show any charging and as I mentioned earlier, the car dies after a minute or so and the main battery light comes on. Could this be an inverter issue? Or is it possible that the main battery needs a higher state of charge for the system to actually work? I know its a long shot but I figure I would ask people more wise than me...I am still learning about the Prius.
     
  6. uart

    uart Senior Member

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    Hi Jeff, what happens if you try to "force charge" it?

    To force charge the prius you basically just rev the engine in "D" while holding it with the brake.

    1. Put the Prius in "D"
    2. Place one foot firmly on the brake.
    3. Apply accelerator pressure with the other foot to rev the engine until you do see charging arrows.
     
  7. justjeff

    justjeff Junior Member

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    I will try it Friday when I am at the shop. But I think I tried to do that and the car wouldnt rev. It only seems to try revving when I am in gear. But I will verify.

    Thanks!
     
  8. uart

    uart Senior Member

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    In gear? :confused: It is in gear, you do this procedure in drive "D"
     
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  9. Hal W

    Hal W New Member

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    Put the Prius in D
    Apply brake
    Apply accelerator.

    uart told you to put in d! Hal
     
  10. justjeff

    justjeff Junior Member

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    LOL. I must be exhausted or something...yeah, it clearly states D....
     
  11. seilerts

    seilerts Battery Curmudgeon

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    If the hv battery is bad, the car should still move. It may only move forward. Picture a car with an electronic automatic transmission that has gone bad. It may move forward, slipping, and have just one forward gear. That's Prius with a bad battery in a nutshell. You should be able to drive it down to Adopt A Part and get the codes read. The engine load may help free the stuck valve(s).
     
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  12. justjeff

    justjeff Junior Member

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    It does move forward and backwards. But it shuts the whole system down after only about a minute or two. and the main battery light comes on when it shuts down. And I mean it shuts down the engine when this happens. No Go at all then. Im a bit confused to say the least.
     
  13. seilerts

    seilerts Battery Curmudgeon

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    Hmm...if it is the battery, that is not a normal failure mode. You are hitting a failsafe that implies inverter, transaxle, or an ecu. Gotta get those codes...
     
  14. justjeff

    justjeff Junior Member

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    Yeah, thats what Im thinking at this point. Can I use an OBD II to get the codes? Someone told me I had to use the Toyota scan tool. Can someone please clarify if an OBD II will work for pulling codes? A friend of mine has the snap on OBD II computer, as well as a simple OBD II reader.

    Thanks!
     
  15. qbee42

    qbee42 My other car is a boat

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    A simple reader will get the basic codes, but only the special readers can get all of the Prius codes. You need the special reader for this type of a problem.

    Tom
     
  16. justjeff

    justjeff Junior Member

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    So I read for hours on this site and have formulated a little plan for when I get back to the shop (2 hours away).
    1-go into maintenance mode via the prius self test procedure to see if the battery is fine or not

    2-look to make sure the fuses are all good, including the skinny wire that appears to run from the battery to a fuse block

    3- check codes with the OBD II reader that I have available locally to see if there are and simple codes that can be read. Clear codes.

    4-repace spark plug. One for some strange reason had no clearance.

    5-try to force charge the car with previously posted directions, yes, making sure to put the car in D...lol

    6- unhook 12V battery, while I am at it, unplug the main battery plug. Wait about 5 min, then rehook both. then start car and try putting it in Neutral to see if this allows the engine to run if previous doesnt work

    7- part of me thinks the throttle control motor may be the issue, seeing as the plastic housing is cracked off part of it.

    I also have another question. If I dont have all the wiring in the front connected (lights, etc, would it possibly cause such an issue as I am having? I see these cars are very touch electronically and thought I would throw that out there just in case.

    Oh yeah, step 8, finish putting car together.
     
  17. andyprius

    andyprius Senior Member

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    You have formulated the steps recommended pretty good. Having all the wiring connected ??? hmm it is normally a good procedure. Some wiring may be really important, like a sensor. It is a good idea to connect everything up, if nothing else the electrical balance may be better preserved and if there is a shorted item, you will not know it, unless connected. NOTE: Your 1st. post sentence " Just bought a car that was hit in the front!" YES, we have had symptoms before on front end damage and the repair shops not making whole vital systems in front. Unless somebody chimes in, google front end damage!
     
  18. Britprius

    Britprius Senior Member

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    The plug with no clearance suggests some object entering that cylinder and hitting the end of the plug, hopefully it's been chewed up and spat out down the exhaust with little or no damage to that cylinder.
     
  19. justjeff

    justjeff Junior Member

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    I have all the sensor wiring hooked up I believe. Just not the lights. At any rate when I post next I will have had the vehicle together hopefully, and clear the codes with a generic OBD II and see what happens. Then on a trailer it will go. I plan on bringing it to Adopt-A-Part to have them run diagnostics. I'll post what I find.
     
  20. justjeff

    justjeff Junior Member

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    Yeah that's the conclusion I had too. But prior to starting I put a magnet down the hole in case there was a piece of the ring in the cylinders. And then I looked as best I could down the holes with a small LED light. Couldnt see or feel anything. Also turned the engine over a bunch with a ratchet on the crank and didnt hear anything.....anyway yeah, if there was something down there I hope it got spit out too. I'm hoping maybe the plug was dropped by my buddy prior to putting it back in??