Wheel bearings going bad at 67K?

If the wheels feel tight, and turn soundlessly when jacked up, it is probably not a bearing.

Take a close look at the plastic underside engine covers, particularly around the "oil change door" and see if anything is loose and might be flapping at speed.

 

Not so fast on those wheel bearings. That noise sounds definitely like a CV joint problem. There are four of these things, typically, on a front wheel drive car: Two attached to the stub axles leaving the transmission and two close to the wheels. They have rubber boots around them, clamped shut on the axles. The joints themselves are big honking pieces of metal with a few large ball bearings inside. The bearings kind of roll back and forth inside large tracks inside the hunks of metal as the axles turn, the idea being that the rotation speed of the three axles (stub from the transmission, short shaft between the two CVs on a side, and the final axle into the wheel) all turn at the same rate, no matter what the wheel deflection.

Typical failure mode is for the boot to get torn, in which case grease leaks out and grit in, eventually causing failure. The one that got me back in 1977 was a side impact on the wheel. You get that thup-thup-thup noise that goes with car speed (not engine); and, if one of the darn things break, the car stops moving. Forever. Or until the joint's replaced. Medium expensive since the wheel(s) have to be more or less dismounted from the frame; at least one doesn't usually have to take the engine out or anything. You'll need a front end alignment when it's all done, raising the cost.

I forget what the test for the CV joint looks like, but if you rotate a wheel and there's a lot of slop between the wheel turning and the shaft into the transmission turning, then I'd call it bad news. Check for torn rubber boots - if you got one, then there's your problem.

KBeck

 

Hi i have replaced front wheel bearings on 2010 prius. There was no movement / play in the bearings but the whub whub noise that you describe. The noise was fixed after bearing replacement. I repair a fleet of taxis here in Cairns Australia and have carried out this repair many times.

 

A "clicking" sound, especially wheb you turn usually indicates a worn or damaged CV joint. The sound you indicate is more likely a worn
bearing and the sound will get progressively louder as the bearing gets worse. A trip to the dealer or a trusted knowledgeable and good mechanic is suggested.

 

CV or U joint problems can usually be diagnosed by driving slowly in tight circles in a parking lot. You will usually hear a clicking or groaning sound that is louder when driving in a tight circle. At slow speed, drive straight, circle one way, then circle the other. Compare the sounds.

Bearings, on the other hand, are easier to diagnose when traveling down the road. Bearing noise will increase when you side load the bad bearing. Get up to the speed where you can hear the noise, then make a fairly sharp turn - fast enough to feel the sideways pull. With bad bearings the sound will increase turning one direction and decrease or go away in the other.

Tom

 

Or be fairly consistent at the boundaries if both are going at the same time (a less common case)

 

I just replaced the driver's side front on my 2006 at around 80,000.

Tom

 

Are you guys doing this replacement yourselves or are you taking it somewhere ?

If so how much does a job like this cost ?

REV

 

MSRP on the LF wheel hub is $309. Add in two hours of labor ($125/hr), plus maybe an extra hour for diagnosis, and this can be a $600-$700 job per corner.

 

Think we'll move ! Your costs are less than ours here in the Chgo burbs.......$325 and special order only. Pretty STUPID engineering
to place the bearing in a hub and have to buy both in one unit for what is normally a $15-20 bearing and about an hour in labor.

Not a customer friendly move by Toyota !

 

The cost here in northern Michigan was about $160 for the hub. With labor it was around $300.

Tom

 

$235 at Rockauto for hub

 

Again, that's for the HUB AND BEARING. It's LOUSY DESIGN to have to replace BOTH the hub and bearing when only the bearing is bad.

Having worked on too may cars to count, and replacing many bearings in my day, I reiterate.....this is LOUSY DESIGN !!!

 

$309 was MSRP, it's lower than that on the site I found.

No thanks on aftermarket hubs, they are made to a much lower quality standard per the engineer who works for one of the major suppliers (from my other forum).

 

Umm i would only get new ones.