Very thin coat of oil at bottom of oil filter (no drip)?

The prius is a pain to change oil...having said that, being an expert with about seven changes done on mine, I'll share my "wealth of knowledge."

Like any car, ENSURE that the gasket from the old filter is not still stuck to the car -- ie -- it should come away when you take the old oil filter off, but in some cases it sticks to the car. Very bad if it does.

I usually use new oil to lube the new filter gasket, but as Patrick said, Wth (I paraphrase).

I always tighten the filter as tight as I can by hand. Yes, I know all about the foot-lbs, all about the tighten 3/4 once the gasket meets the metal, etc.

But, you know, curled up like some mutant lizard under the Prius, I honestly would not want to bet when the gasket actually hits the metal. And is that just barely, or good solid contact? A slight kiss or a full-on major slam of gasket and metal.

So, I tighten as tight as I can. And then I rest for a bit and then I tighten the filter some more. Sometimes I'm not sure it moving, but then I see my landmarks shift and I might get three or four more centimeters of rotation.

The funny thing is, when I go to change the oil again in six months, I NEVER have any trouble taking the oil filter off by hand, no tools, whatsoever.

 

Hi K,

It is sufficient if you turn the filter so that the gasket is slightly in contact with the machined surface. Then rotate 1/2 turn beyond that, and you are done.

IMO 3/4 turn makes the filter unnecessarily tight when the time comes to remove it 5K miles later.

You would not have to curl up like a mutant lizard if you raised the car up sufficiently so that it would rest on jackstands, but I understand that may not be easy to do if you are relying upon a scissors jack.

 

Dear CyberFriend Patrick:

I worry about raising the car much while oil "changing." If vehicle is raised, would not some of the oil hide in the back of the pan, just waiting to contaminate all that fresh new oil I pour in.

I know you don't like my method....but I think it is pretty safe. Raise on scissor jack just enough to slide oil draintainer under car. Open Fumoto valve and lower car down and let it flow!

By doing it that way, I think, most of the dirty oil can flow out. But on stands???

 

Hi K,

What quantity of hidden oil are we talking about - 3 ounces? If you refill with 3.5 US quarts of oil, that is an influx of 112 ounces...

In any event, if your method works for you, then no reason to change.

 

I use 2 ramps and put 2 wedges on the back tires. Works like a charm. Yes, the Fumoto valve is great. It probably forces another ounce of old oil to remain but good grief

 

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For those owners who will not be content until every last drop of old oil is out of the engine, raise up the driver's side of the car while the drain plug is removed. That will encourage more oil to come out of the drain hole which faces towards the passenger side of the car.

 

If this is the Toyota or a Denso filter then all that is required when installing is to tighten until it noticeably stops. They call it "torque stopper." I do by hand, and not so hard as hands are painful. I don't know about using a torque wrech on a filter as they are different gasket designs. I think it isn't necessary, for sure on the torque stopper type. Square cut gaskets are a lot different in how they compress, too much is bad. Looks like you are doing well with the process, and you know it is done carefully. To fill the filter takes awhile as the oil flows through the element, usually 3/4 full is plenty industrious for me. All my 2.5 c. Also, some of it is even true.

 

Why do you need to fill the oil filter before installing, never heard of this before!?

 

Strictly speaking you don't have to, but it does make the new oil circulate more quickly. I haven't noticed it so much on the Prius (probably because of the high cranking speed). However on previous cars where I've had accurate oil pressure gauges, I've seen very noticeable delays (like 4 to 5 seconds longer than normal) before the oil pressure comes good after a new filter is first installed. Prefilling the filter significantly reduced this delay.

 

As Uart said, most of the tutorials I have read on oil changes recommend filling the oil filter partially full before installing.

However you can't do it on all cars. A friend has an old Camry and the filter is on the side of the engine block and is sticking upward at an angle. All the oil would spill out before you got the filter installed. My old Corolla was the same way.

I honestly don't think it matters much. My old Corolla went 267,000 and never used oil. Besides just something more for me to knock over and create a mess.

One small recommendation, I use gloves when I change the oil, usually latex, occasionally nitrile (the blue or purple gloves). But the last box of gloves I bought was PVC. Love them. They are not as stretchy as rubber but they are much more durable. Does not matter so much on the car, but in other uses, such cleaning, etc., they last and last and last.

 

If the oil filter is mounted on the engine in an upright position (which is the case with the Prius engine), it is good practice to partially fill the filter with engine oil before you install it. The point of that is to avoid a few seconds of engine operation upon initial startup after the oil change, where no oil is flowing.

 

My brother's Audi has the oil filter vertical, but upside-down. So not only can't you pre-fill it, but it also lets oil spill out all over the engine every time he unscrews it. Lol what a silly design that is.

 

I take it that the oil filter would be the Toyota ( Denso ) 90915-YZZF2 . I've had issues with the oil filter letting oil seep / leak on the sides ( more from the RH. side ) . Not enough to leave oil on bottom of filter . There's usually a small brown spot of fresh oil after cleaning the base of the filter with some glass cleaner and paper towel(s) . If let go long enough it'll leave black residue on a paper towel ( oil mixed with dust ) . The oil level doesn't move . This is with an 2008 Yaris ( 1.5 ltr. ) . Never had this happen until last 2 O.C.s. Makes me wonder if it's a bad batch . I turn it until hand tight and then turn about 3/4 with wrench as instructed . Purchsed an AC Delco Duraguard ( PF 1233 ) oil filter for upcoming O.C. , the AC Delco has a thicker / wider gasket . The torque for the Toyota oil filter is 9.5 ft. lbs. and 28 for the drain plug . I always clean the oil pan / block thoroughly during and after the O.C.. You'd be amazed how glass cleaner cuts through / breaks up the oil . The Toyota oil filter is pre-lubed , so just run tip of finger on the ring for even coverage . Then clean that base of oil filter / block to remove any excess oil / lubricant to monitor any seeping oil after driving . Check oil level / filter few times a week to be on the safe side . I too use SHELL full synthetic 5w-20 ( current ) or 5w-30 ( next o.c. ) for the Yaris , can't go wrong at under $3.50 a quart . Last , the new oil filter takes close to 5 ounces of new oil . Need to let it soak up the oil as filling . Keep us updated . Good luck .

 

Forgot to mention used the AC Delco Duraguard PF 1233 for a 2000 Prizm , 2003 Matrix and 2007 Prius II . Never had an issue .

 

The spec is to turn the oil filter until the gasket contacts the machined surface (which is much looser than hand tight); then rotate 3/4 turn from that point. My personal practice is to rotate the filter around 1/2 turn from that point by hand, and I do not have any problems with oil leakage.

If you have a problem with the oil filter gasket leaking, you might consider the possibility that this is due to overtightening.