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improving emissions and fuel economy

Discussion in 'Other Cars' started by TxMan, Jun 18, 2012.

  1. TxMan

    TxMan Hearse driver

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    I'm new, and I need a car | PriusChat

    I drive a 1970 Superior coach, which boasts a 500 cubic inch (8.2 liter) V8.
    [​IMG]
    (not my actual car)
    when I first got it, it got a stellar 2 mpg. two. that is more that $1.50 per mile to drive this thing.

    today me and a group of friends rebuilt basically everything on the drivetrain.

    upgrades include:
    race cam
    pre-smog era heads, with head job
    new intake manifold
    fuel injection and engine management system.
    removed smog pump
    4 inch cat-delete dual exhaust system, with custom headers
    700R4 trans (4 speed) 2 more speeds then when I got it.
    went from 4.33 (lower then low) to 2.10 (very high) gears in the diff.

    it has a 45 gallon tank that I have to use premium with octane booster and lead additive (158.90 a tank)

    vehicle weighs 6000 lbs curb weight, but with my custom casket-tool box, loaded with tools, it should clock in at 7k, and I have to tow pumps and generators for my job, 4-6000 lbs.

    any of you that have been to west Texas know, lots of long flat roads at 80 miles per... and my job (pump/generator technician for Oil rigs) requires lots of driving.

    any guesses on what kind of gas mileage I will make? and what can I do to make more MPG's? emissions are second to gas mileage, and catalysts just hurt MPGs too much to be worth it to me, but if you have any ideas for this-feel free to post
     
  2. austingreen

    austingreen Senior Member

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    Wow. Is that a hearse? They were not designed to do the work you are doing. How much interior space do you need in the vehical? How many miles do you drive a year.

    To improve fuel economy, with your current vehicle you probably want to turbo charge it, then gear it toward the new power. But not knowing the engine, I have no idea if a turbo will make it blow, and its not going to get good mileage no matter what.

    A highlander hybrid if its big enough for you may make sense, IIRC its tow capacity is only listed at 3500 lbs. I'm not sure it can handle your loads without modification.

    The normal truck for you would be a f150 with the 6cyl ecoboost, and maybe a camper shell if you tool box isn't waterproof. Its aerodymaics though are going to hurt the mileage compared to a highlander, but it has plenty of torque to carry what you are towing.
     
  3. TxMan

    TxMan Hearse driver

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    did you read my intro thread? I had 3500 dollars to buy an efficient car that could tow.

    interior space? seating for 6, plus a professional tool box (now a modified casket)

    miles per year? well more than 100k, its usually about 1700 a week, plus trips north and a few other contingencies.

    I would need some HUGE turbos for this thing, originally it came with an 850 CFM quadrojet, but could take up to 1700 CFM in its stock form (I'm currently running approx. 1300, and its well more than my injectors can handle) and to get any considerable boost I would need something like a TT set up with turbos off of something 4+liters (nothing comes to mind)

    it is geared, and its alittle on the high side, I plan on graduating to a OD system, or maybe a transfer case.

    the Cadillac industrial chassis (extended B chassis) was the same one used for ambulances, it is very strong and durable...I have been using it for a day, and so far its an abominable tank of a car.

    impressions so far:
    need new rear suspension. now.
    need disc brakes all the way around
    transfer case or high/low diff
    parking cams
    bigger injectors (runs lean arount 75% throttle, engine ECU throttles me back here)
    tach

    I haven't towed anything yet, but I'm willing to bet that it can do it. it will break the tires loose in third.
    before this I had a '92 F250 with a 7.3 TD in it, I loved it, but the the second trans was dying, and at 647k on it, the rest of the car wasn't so happy. I needed something that wasn't a truck, it wasn't uncomfortable to drive.

    will report back later with more findings, when I get to the next job site I will try to tow something to find out if it can do it or not.

    this thing is a hit with the oil workers, they oh so love it
     
  4. ksstathead

    ksstathead Active Member

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    I could sure see the beast being able to tow what you need. Also, I'd think the novelty could be useful in getting business.

    On the negative side, your fuel expense will still be worse than a newer Ford Escape Hybrid or other option to meet your towing/cargo needs. Also, your emissions will surely be abysmal vs any modern car performing to oem specs. Since emissions have no monetary cost to you in the short run, you would need to care about that factor for other reasons.

    Curious, what is your connection to the Prius community? Best of luck.
     
  5. austingreen

    austingreen Senior Member

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    I didn't read the intro. I don't think you can do efficient and stay close to your budget:)

    yep, its not worth the money. You would get more efficient, but it requires new injectors, twin turbos, and an inter cooler, and modification to your transmission. After reading your intro thread, I know more about your engine. I guess '76 was a crap year for those heads, and I think it had something close to 7:1 compression, with the older heads you put on it should be much happier, but how high did it make the compression go? I'm not sure if replacing the pistons will help. Definitely make sure the revs don't go high when your towing. It sounded like you put in a racing cam, but they do make camshafts for efficiency. With the right head and pistons you should get a compression around 10:1. If that is knocking it would be great if you could get late valve closing like the prius to increase thermal efficiency but correct compression without needing those fuel additives. That would decrease hp, but it would still be higher than before you changed out the head, and increase efficiency.

    Sounds like a cool project vehicle. I'm sure if you are towing 6000lbs its going to get much worse millage than the F250. I'm not sure what the right used diesel for you is right now, but it will probably save quite a bit over the herse if you are putting on all those miles. Pollution control was in the dark ages in 1976, and it did sap a lot of power from that engine, but... you are putting many miles on your car. The more modern pollution control has lower overhead, and better milage should pay the difference. I'm sorry I couldn't give better advice
     
  6. TxMan

    TxMan Hearse driver

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    I asked to confirm I had no other options in efficiency...plus I don't want to drive some egg-shaped plastic car with no soul around. hybrid SUVs are a small fortune, and when you consider I paid 800 for this (compared to like 65k for a tahoe hybrid) that leaves me 64,200 for gas-it will take me a long time to break even, and this thing is strait up badass, not just another SUV

    just bought some injectors for a TT supercharged LS9 set up, should get me close to my 1300 CFM guess...might move up to a double injector set up eventually, with custom intake mani.

    a worker told me he had a weiland supercharger for a dual-quad style intake like I have, that he would sell me...this would bring me up to 700 hp with god only knows how much torque. he wants a grand for it, so that might be a ways off.

    compression is probably 11.5 to one, its quite high.

    it is a stage 2 cam, with the machined/ported heads, this classifieds as a stage 2 motor, street/strip. nice lopey idle, with the headers and 4 inch dual exhaust it sound evil.

    the problem with revving american big-blocks was always the valve train, my second car, a '78 cutlass with a olds 350 in it kicked a lifter at 4800 RPM. with my head job, I trust this engine to 6k.

    update on today:
    filled it up with gas, it went further and was cheaper then the F250...maybe 12 MPG or so-I was driving quite aggressively.

    friend at salvage yard has a 2 speed transfer case he will give me, which solves my no-low-end-power problem, and opens the possibility for 4WD (thats rat-rod territory right there) will install tomorrow night.

    towed a ~4200 lb generator a few miles, once I got up to speed it didn't have a problem. rear suspension practically slammed itself, so I need to replace it-probably going to airbag it.

    plans for next weekend-
    FIX RADIO
    pull engine, check everything, including 100k service (water pump, oil pump, the like)
    pop trans open, check wear. (rebuilt when put in yesterday)
    get some craigslist craiger rims
    address fuel delivery issues
    rear suspension, even if temp. fix

    tomorrow when I go to the yard to get the transfer case, I will ask my friend what he has to say about turbos...for now, I am going to put in these injectors. car has currently cost me $2500.
     
  7. austingreen

    austingreen Senior Member

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    Hey, the prius in my eyes looks pretty good on the outside with its functional camback design:) The interior is rather plasticy, but a gen III prius appears to have more of a soul than an old herse. The prius won't do what you want it to do though. I don't think you can do much on aerodynamics on your car though. Normally low rolling resistance would be the next easy thing, but if you have a 7000 lb vehicle towing 6000lbs there are not low rolling resistance tire options. Definitely good inflation to your tires and good tires are important. That leaves us with the engine and transmission. You already are looking at transmission issues, so that leaves the engine.

    Supercharging will add power, but it will make the car less efficient. That 11.5 compression sounds great, but something is probably wrong, I would expect knocking. If the intake manifold is restricting you, that could be ok, unless you are under powered, and it doesn't sound like you are. Restricted air will actually put you on a more efficient cycle. Turbo charging will make it more efficient and add more power, but it will be a more difficult install than a super charger. I'm not sure if there are good used parts available. You need to be able to feed the car enough gas though those injectors, and likely reduce the compression to around 9, a low boost say around 10 psi on twin turbos should be about right. It will provide more torque on an already torquey engine.
     
  8. Trollbait

    Trollbait It's a D&D thing

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    An air dam under the front bumper will clean up the air flow underneath. Not pretty, but cheap to try out with rigid plastic sheeting, old trash can, coroplas signs, etc. I've had garden border on my car, but it appears your car has a greater ground clearance. With air resistance quadrupling with every doubling of speed, a slight improvement can have impact at 80mph.
     
  9. seftonm

    seftonm Member

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    Get an F-150 SuperCrew EcoBoost. It will have modern amenities unlike your 40 year old car, be far safer, is designed for the kind of work you want to do, and you should be able to make monthly payments for it with your fuel savings alone.
     
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  10. TxMan

    TxMan Hearse driver

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    at the salvage yard now.

    there isn't a transfer case that will fit on this, so we are going to put on a hi/low diff, 2.10/3.73

    last night I upgraded to some MASSIVE injectors, and now my injector pump can't keep up. my ECU and injection system was off of an LM7 engine (327 cubic inch LS type engine) which just can't keep up. we just put on a pump off of an LS2 (supercharged 6.2 liter) which should have enough pressure. my ECU would kick codes at 87% throttle on surges, and couldn't maintain it above 64%.

    my friend has 2 turbos that *could* work, but they both need rebuilds, bearings, blow off valves and many more expensive parts. if I do any forced induction, it would be after a bottom end rebuild. still going to buy these today.

    an air dam would look hidious on this thing.

    I have a house payment and student loans, I do NOT want a bill for a $30k car as well...plus this was $800, so it will be a very long time before I break even. and 'modern amenities?' I have AC, FM, and power locks/windows, I'm happy. plus these leather seats are to DIE for...there are no other comfort items I want/need. as for safety, the lackage of airbags and crumple zones probably don't help, but its so heavy, and with such a stiff frame, it would probably win in a fight against anything I would encounter.

    have you ever force inducted an engine? you need to completely modify the fuel system, turbocharging an engine does not make it more efficient, it makes it have more power in its most efficient RPMs (if that makes any sense) and I can't think of anything with larger injectors to stick on here without getting drag racing parts ($$$), or moving up to a twin injector set up (custom intake needed). also my compression ratio is astronomical for any form of forced induction, and I do NOT want to do another head job, or run race fuel/av gas (~5.95 gallon)

    that would be in the future.

    on another note, my old F250 (traded for all the free parts I got here) is completely gone, in just 2 days. there is literally, nothing left. the rear passenger door and driver front qtr. are all that is left, amazingly fast destruction.

    just learned a 200R4 transmission has less operating loss than a 700R4, but can't handle as much torque. apparently a DL80E or some race 5 speed is my best bet. the 700 we put in there was out of an '89 delta 98, and, although rebuilt, is temporary. its just not meant for this amount of power and abuse.

    and 'plastic egg shaped car with no soul' was a broad generalization of every modern car I have driven, no steering or brake communication, suspension is too stiff, the FWD is unpredictable and doesn't feel like you are in control.

    but the hearse feels...right. the brakes are vacuum assist, but still have feedback. the power steering is nice and responsive, you can tell exactly how much grip you have left, and the interior, oh god the interior, what isn't steel or wood is leather, I know it has practically no miles, but there are no rattles, nothing feels funny or loose, it gives you a 'solid' feel that only a few modern car manufacturers have been able to keep (looking at YOU Germany). its also incredibly smooth, I hit a speed bump I didn't see at 25, and (although it made a lot of noise) didn't shake me around. its also very commanding to drive, not to the point where you and the car are one (you need some high-dollar european sports cars for that) but it feels like the car wants to do what you tell it, and its pretty peppy about it. its probably the RWD that causes most of this...

    city MPG is about 7 at the moment.
     
  11. seftonm

    seftonm Member

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    The way I see it, 1700mi at 12mpg every week is ~$450/wk in fuel? Say an F-150 gets 18mpg. That's $300/wk. So you are saving $600/mo in fuel, that pays for your truck and leaves you some extra money to get your other loans paid off as well. Park your hearse tomorrow and get the truck, it starts saving you money from day one.
     
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  12. TxMan

    TxMan Hearse driver

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    ^I don't have anything for a down payment, plus its just another bland F150...not a badass custom hearse

    and I am under their thumb for 72 months, this thing will be long killed and gone in 6 years...I would be paying for like 3 trucks if I financed everything I bought. I am on a 'cash only' basis with everything now.
    2012 Ford F-150 Options | View Available Trim Levels | Ford.com


    new rear diff solves low end problem.

    also city MPGs are better, don't know how much better, but its noticeable. maybe 9-10? highway mpgs should stay the same. got new engine computer along with the injector pump, which allows for one O2 sensor per cylinder, instead of one per side of engine-should boost performance, MPGs, and durability. will install tonight, along with larger rear drums and moving up to Royal Purple oil all around, which should give me a considerable boost.
     
  13. austingreen

    austingreen Senior Member

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    Yes I have, but not on anything like the engine you are working on. It just isn't going to be worth it. The best you can do is get the thing properly running on premium gas, with proper pistons, compressions, manifold, transmission, etc.

    To run small turbos (10psi or less) on the thing properly with premium gas, you need to drop compression back to around factory's 8.5:1, add an intercooler, new lines to cool the turbo, new fuel management, and a transmission that can properly get to the proper gear. Even then the only time you would see fuel saving is when you are towing that extra load.

    The latest modern car that was designed to tow what you want was probably the '96 Cadillac fleetwood with 7000lb towing package. If you can find one in the condition you like, it will definitely save more in fuel compared to your current car than it costs, and will greatly reduce pollution compared to your current car. How are you going to get the hearse through a texas inspection. That caddy has the LT1 engine with the same block as the corvette, so there are many knowledgeable people and parts.

    Again a used F150 ecoboost will probably cost you less in the long run when you include maintenance and fuel. Its actually designed to do that towing. I don't know how much they are going for today though. I can definitely understand wanting a car not a truck.
     
  14. TxMan

    TxMan Hearse driver

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    aww come on dude, I already bought turbos...maybe in the distant future I will do it.

    used ecoboosts here are ~$40k
    2011 FORD F150 ECOBOOST SPECIAL EDITION ONLY 10,000 MILES WITH NAVI!!!
    2011 Ford F150 SuperCrew Lariat 4x4 ~ Ecoboost ~ 8K miles! Beige 22598861R D 141
    2011 FORD F150 LARIAT ECOBOOST LOADED

    also the ship has sailed, I have a Cadillac now..its going to be a while before I get any money.

    an LT1 B chassis would be a sweet ride, but-
    1993 Cadillac Fleetwood
    1994 IMPALA SS ON 22s LAMBO DOORS

    there aren't many of them, the few that there are are abused/molested, and people just want too much for them.

    and Texas inspection is easy...this car passed on sunday first shot, after sitting for 4 years...

    besides, with all I have in my trunk now, I should be able to raise MPG's some tonight. will report back with findings
     
  15. austingreen

    austingreen Senior Member

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    Hey, its a good project, I'm just out of my understanding when dealing with big block engines.

    There should be some easy gains as you find out the engine condition. Keep us informed on your progress. Once you get the right parts on it, its a matter of tuning it for the fuel you will be using.

    I know my inspection includes emissions testing. Didn't you remove most of the emissions control equipment?
     
  16. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    Did you fully inflate the tires to max sidewall?

    Have you checked the wheel alignment?

    Bob Wilson
     
  17. BigFatGuy

    BigFatGuy Member

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    How about a T-56? Shouldn't be an issue holding that power, especially if you get a few Viper bits.
    Carbon fiber driveshaft? Less rotating weight, and makes for a smoother ride. :)
    Worked on the brakes yet? Rear drums? If they're iron, look to ebay or junkyard for IROC aluminum drums. What's the bolt pattern? New Caddy CTSs have 13" front rotors, with the same ol' GM bolt pattern. Might be worth a look.

    Interesting project. :)
     
  18. TxMan

    TxMan Hearse driver

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    tonight I installed:
    Royal purple full synthetic fluids, trans, diff, and engine, along with new oil filter.
    new ECU, O2 sensors, and fuel rail. (new injector pump earlier today)


    I also pulled the valve cover just to have a look around, still a new engine. (it was rebuilt on sunday, of course it is, lol)

    picked up (AT MINIMUM) 50 horsepower.

    it was inspected before overhaul.

    as far as transmissions go, I think the casting for the 500 motors didn't allow for a clutch...I don't know though. and I would like to move up to a DL80E, but remember-the 700R4 in it has less than 500 miles on it.

    brakes.
    I bled everything last night, and it all seems to work good enough. it has some HUGE drums on the back, and GM discs in the front, it can stop. +the trailer brake set up, so other then ABS or rear discs, I don't see anything worth upgrading.

    alignment was done on Sunday during overhaul.
    a carbon fiber drive shaft is a...different idea, but it sounds expensive.

    my friend has an ecoboost, he says he hates it, but I will go take a look at it, just to satisfy you all, okay?

    probably will get a good 2 mpg out of the fluids and better ECU. have some driving to do tomorrow, so I can tell you.
     
  19. NiHaoMike

    NiHaoMike Member

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    You might be able to get a few more MPGs out of it using lean burn once you're up to speed, and add water injection to prevent overheating. And since you drive a lot of highway, aerodynamic mods would likely help a lot. There are even some that do no permanent modification if you want to be able to restore it to stock later on.
     
  20. TxMan

    TxMan Hearse driver

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    ^methanol injection on non-force-inducted engines is pretty pointless...plus, with my dual-quadrojet style intake (dual throttle bodies) would require more modification to the kit. but, for $300, it might be worth it just to experiment with.



    I would also need some pretty serious nozzles for the amount of air that goes through my engine.

    today I had to go back to the rigs again, and am racking up some pretty serious miles. I have been trying to feather-foot it as much as possible. the new ECU and fluids make a noticeable difference in how the engine/drivetrain 'feels', its much smoother, and takes less throttle to cruise at 80. plus it makes more power, and that is always a plus.

    I have ~$500 left in my car fund, and I am thinking of updating the AC to R-134A, and getting some radiator fans, along with backup cams and some form of an air-ride suspension. I'm not going to call it quits after I run out, but its probably going to slow down.