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Gen 1 serpentine belt replacement

Discussion in 'Generation 1 Prius Discussion' started by Octavius, Jun 29, 2012.

  1. Octavius

    Octavius New Member

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    Hi folks,

    Doesn't seem to be a Gen 1 forum so I thought I'd post here, if that is OK.

    I'm about to replace the serpentine belt and wondered if anyone has done this on a Gen 1 and if there are any tips you could give.

    I've the Haynes and the Chilton but they simply say undo the locking nut and undo the belt tensioner blot, take the belt off and replace it.

    I can see the nut and bolt in question but is there a diagram somewhere that shows exactly how the belt goes around the pulleys?

    Thanks for any suggestions.
     
  2. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    I don't have a diagram but I have replaced the belt on my 2001. When you look at the belt and the pulleys, I think you'll see that it is quite easy to remove and replace the belt without confusion about how to route it.
     
  3. Octavius

    Octavius New Member

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    Patrick,
    Thanks for the reply.
    I see in your photo tutorial (great photos by the way) that, for your 2004, you jacked up the vehicle and removed a cover - I'm assuming this is to access the lower engine pulley. Would you think it possible to avoid that step? Though I'm not sure my arms are long enough!
    Just trying to think it all out first before I do it. It's getting rather toasty here in NC recently.
    Thanks!
     
  4. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Your assumption is right. You'll have to see whether you can access the crankshaft pulley from the top. If not then you'll need to remove the engine under cover, but this really is not a big deal.

    Yes, it is not pleasant to work on the car in hot, humid weather. Maybe you can do the work first thing in the morning before the weather heats up - or perhaps defer the work until October?
     
  5. Octavius

    Octavius New Member

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    Patrick,
    Thanks for the clarification.
    Yes, I need to set the alarm clock!
    Cheers!
    PS. The engine under cover - yes, I like to remove the middle one (I think) when changing the oil. Makes removing the oil filter an exquisite pleasure. Instead of feeling around for the dang thing.
     
  6. joedirte

    joedirte Member

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    I was wondering... obviously it is better to use DENSO, etc. parts to get the 200k miles... but if you keep an eye on it and change it more often, can you get away with the cheapo autoparts store belt?

    Also just wondering how much tension is it supposed to have? (ie. 2 cm deflection midway crankshaft and tensioner pulley)
     
  7. Octavius

    Octavius New Member

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    Well, I've ordered the Toyota belt for $10 plus $10 FedEx from :
    2001 Toyota Prius Parts - Genuine Toyota Parts
    I have a feeling the genuine belt lasts longer.

    The impression I get is to tighten it just to kinda take the slack out of it but not so much that you can play a tune on it.
     
  8. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    I believe the spec is 0.4" deflection, 22 lb pressure. The correct serpentine belt is not very expensive so that is what I would use.
     
  9. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    My service manual (page CO-4) says 110 pounds (+/- 11) for a new belt (run less than 5 minutes), 67 pounds (+/- 10) for anything less new than that. That's what the reading would be on a tension gauge; for all I know that might be equivalent to 0.4" deflection at 22 pounds if you measure it that way, but I didn't happen to see that figure given.

    -Chap
     
  10. joedirte

    joedirte Member

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    The 0.4" / 22lb is for the Gen2, and the Gen1 has a longer belt for the A/C pulley.

    I read something about when using a tension gauge, the deflection is set to "1/64 inch for every inch of span length" then you read the tension when you press it to that distance.
     
  11. Octavius

    Octavius New Member

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    This is for the Gen 1.
    OK, I've taken a look with a flashlight and see that the belt goes around the following pulleys:
    1. belt tensioner, up top
    2. crankshaft, down below and rearwards
    3. another, midway and forward - contacting the outside of the belt

    If the latter is the AC, then I'm missing a pulley for the water pump, right?
    I'm trying to avoid jacking the car up and taking off the wheel as that would involve a bit of a hassle but it looks like I need to.
    Thoughts anyone?
     
  12. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    I think the water pump is your #3. You'll be wondering where the A/C compressor is until you drop the right side engine under-cover. That doesn't require a jack or removing the wheel ... just be sure you find all the little fasteners.

    -Chap
     
  13. Octavius

    Octavius New Member

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    Ha!
    Many thanks Chap!
    Belt should arrive tomorrow afternoon so I'll attempt replacement Saturday morning (at 5:30 am!)
    Cheers!
     
  14. Octavius

    Octavius New Member

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    OK, FedEx arrived early and the deed is done.
    Yeah, it is necessary to remove that bottom panel, so you can get the belt over the 4th pulley.

    I like that the tension of the belt is adjusted with a bolt (compared to old cars where you use a crow bar between the engine block and the alternator) but why didn't they make it so you can loosen it all the way and slip the belt on? I had to carefully use a screwdriver to persuade the belt on the top pulley.

    Anyways, saved myself $90 - $20 = $70, so I'm happy.

    Thanks to all who responded to my questions!

    Cheers!
     
  15. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    I don't recall having to use a screwdriver to pry the belt on the pulley. Regardless, glad to hear you had success with your project.
     
  16. Octavius

    Octavius New Member

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    Patrick,
    Yeah, it was seriously tight.
    With the belt off, I worked that tensioner up and down a bunch of times and then put it at it's lowest setting.
    It was a Toyota belt (made by Mitsubushi) so I don't know what the problem was.
    May not be doing it again - we've put 206k miles on this car and I'm thinking the belt lasts 100k.
    Thanks for the congratulations - it felt good test driving it.
    Cheers!
     
  17. joedirte

    joedirte Member

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    FYI the dealer parts dept cost price (not retail) was $12 something and you might be able to get it from them for $10.
     
  18. Octavius

    Octavius New Member

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    Joe,
    Thanks for that information.
    I should have checked them out. But these days, even in a Prius, you have to figure in the cost of driving to the dealership.
    Cheers!
     
  19. electrontechnik

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    I just replaced my serpentine belt today. I'm at a couple hundred miles before cracking 100k miles. Belt had cracks every few millimeters, and on engine start sometimes it would squeak. I didn't bother even putting the car in the air, did everything from above. I removed the air intake duct (or I should say, pushed it out of the way as best as I could), as well as a circuit module on the A/C coolant line. After using a 12 mm and 14mm socket to loosen the tensioner bolt and then the pulley bolt, the old belt came out like a breeze.

    Putting the new one ($18 from the $tealer, who is selling WS oil for $14/quart verses $8/quart in another nearby city) was not as much of a breeze, I pinched the belt in the middle making an infinity loop, snaked one end around the main engine pulley, then around the A/C compressor pulley, then guided it around the idler and finally tensioner pulley.
     
    Brian in Tucson likes this.
  20. joedirte

    joedirte Member

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    For what it's worth, the parts dept at the Stealerships seem to be very negotiable. It appears they don't get a lot of walk up business. Anyways, they have always given me the lower price if you mention the real cost online or at the other dealer. But I guess YMMV.