How do you get the fuse box cover off

It's a little tricky the first time you do it, but not really that hard (that said, I snapped off one of the plastic tabs on mine when doing it on a cold February morning). There are two tabs at the top of the fusebox and one tab at the bottom.

The tabs at the top come off quite easily - for the one on the bottom, reach just under the tab and push and it should also release and come off.

 

I have this vague memory of someone saying that they simply squeeze somewhere and it comes off quite easily; however, I can't find that with a search. As I remember, it was buried pretty deeply in a thread.

Anyone else remember this, or am I still hallucinating from PC withdrawal?

I don't have my Prius yet, so I can't go check this out.

 

Found it -- Post #32 by priusham on this thread
http://priuschat.com/index.php?showtopic=1...30&#entry182530

 

priusham said:
"When I jumped my Prius this week, I THOUGHT the fuse box was going to be difficult to open because the molding for the latches looks really complicated.

Yet, all I did was squeeze the side of the cover and it lifted right off. I mean, I was actually suprized at how simple it was. I'm not sure what problems you others are having with it, but it surely was not at all 'difficult" to remove or replace. "

Squeezing didn't work for me. The top clips open easily but the bottom one is much harder to release.

 

Maybe I'm confused here, but I'm pretty certain that the thin lower edge of mine had a push-in "button" to release the catch, then it just came up, with the top two catches just freeing themselves as you lift the cover.

Edit...

Okay, I've checked, and I was right. The lower edge of the lid is about 3cm wide, and has a central raised ridge about 1½cm wide. This is the top of a sprung tab with a catch at the bottom - pushing/squeezing it (not very hard) releases it. So just depress that tab and pull the lower edge upwards, and the whole lid comes straight off easily.

To refit, just hook the two tabs at the top first, then press down the lower edge.

 

Did you read my post, Oxo? There aren't any hinges. Just two deep catches at the top, plus one shallow one at the bottom, which is designed to be the one you release.

I had no trouble opening releasing the bottom catch on mine just now, in the cold. You only need to push one finger down on the 1.5cm x 1.5cm area in the middle of the bottom lid edge (ie applying a force towards the back of the car), then pull up with that same finger. As with most of the catches on the car, it would be blindingly obvious, if only you could actually see the lower edge of the box.

As for the arrow, I'm not sure what that is indicating, except possibly the slot for bonnet support rod?

 

Thanks KMO!

I tried figuring this out a few weeks ago and was overcome with frustration (and cold) before I got the cover off. The manual wasn't very helpful either. I just got back in from my second attempt and following your instructions did the trick.

Thanks again,

Dave

 

Mine, too. An annotated picture (or two) would probably help immensely, being worth a thousand words (or two). It IS difficult to put even simple procedures as this one into just the right words that everyone will understand.

{Just discovered that these posts are 15 years old, but the procedure is likely to be needed by a driver (or two) in 2021. Like. say, me!}

 

With your left hand, place your thumb at the upper ~ 1 inch area of the cover, curl your fingers so they go behind the cover (toward the fire wall) and place them slightly below the joint where the cover meets the fuse box. Use your fingertips to push the side of the fuse box back toward you and lift upward. The fuse box plastic should flex toward you, allowing your fingertips to grip under the cover and slightly flexing the cover away from the fuse box at the same time. That gap is typically enough to let the latches separate, allowing the cover to be lifted at the top.
ORRRR..you can just reach down to one snap (which is part of the plastic cover), put your fingertip under it and pry it slightly toward the firewall while lifting. Then do the other one.

For the bottom latch, slide your finger down the top portion of the latch until you feel where it passes through the bottom slot. Use your finger to push the upper latch toward the firewall. The upper latch will flex toward the firewall, disengaging the 'snap' from the slot, allowing the cover to be lifted.

 

or you can just take your right hand put it on the top edge of the cover while lifting the top cover off press in right below the cover to release the edge lock of the cover comes right off.

 

Having had my 2006 since, well, 2006, after many times taking the cover off the engine area fuse box, this morning I wanted to test the voltage of the "tucked away" 12V in the back, and dang, I could not get that bottom latch to let go and couldn't remember the method I used in the past. Clearly this is answered in this thread, but while you can see the two top latches and they're easy/obvious, I think TMR-JWAP said it pretty well for the different-functioning bottom latch.

So yes, you push towards the back of the car on the smooth tab at its lowest before it goes into that bottom slot. I pictured that letting the top of the smooth tab teeter-totter away from the fuse box so it released, but since that doesn't seem to match what TMR-JWAP is saying, the important thing is the dang thing does let go and you can remove the fuse box cover.
Do note that yes - just like you can jump start the 12V using the + access in the fusebox and a good, grounded bolt (the one just towards the back of the car from the fuse box works well) - you can also measure the volts in the 12V battery that way too, without having to disassemble lots of stuff inside the back hatch area.

 

I had the same problem and this video helped immensely. It’s for the larger fuse box on the left, but the steps are the same.

 

I've had my 2006 Gen 2 for over 14 years. Removing the fuse box cover is one of those should-be-easy jobs that I dread. Pushing that lower tab in to pop the cover is never easy and always takes 5-10 minutes of fussing before it will push back enough to release.

Well, today it's 19°F here in Jersey, and I wanted to give the small battery a charge. After 15 minutes or so of pushing, jiggling, and cursing - nothing. And all the while I'm thinking - what happens if I have this happen (like a fuse blowing) on the side of a dark cold highway? Finally, I twisted the tab off and I'm going to fit a velcro strap or something similar to hold it. I must confess I'm happy to do that and be done with this frustration. Does anyone else have creative ways they hold the cover down after breaking the tab?

 

20 years on, I still don't really understand the problem . I had 4 or 5 G2s, and it was always straightforward.

One had one upper catch broken by some brute before I got it... Didn't stop it holding down okay. No helpful suggestions on securing it without the lower catch. Just here to taunt you.

(Now, changing headlight bulbs - that was hell...)

 

Bad design by Toyota. The release that must be pressed to open the fuse box is not visible. The two attachments on the back are. So people new to the car see those first and try to open it starting at the back, and that often results in a broken plastic hook. They should have molded a big arrow into the lid pointing at the actual release with a graphic indicating what is needed to open it. Or they could have put a sticker on it with the same info for a few pennies.

I bet half the 2nd generation Prius fuse boxes have at least one of the rear clamp pieces broken because of this omission,

Also, I can believe that the front latch is hard or even impossible to release at low temperatures. It only works when the the plastic lever can bend, and plastic becomes less and less flexible as the temperatures fall.

 

Might be a cool innovation:

A lidded compartment with two copper bars clearly labeled red and black (with a plastic divider between them), plus embossed with plus and minus symbols. Generously sized enough for booster cable clamps. Plus fuses to protect against reversed connection. Lid easily opened but secure and waterproof when closed, generous length/gauge (red) and negative (black) leads with pigtail connectors to connect to the car’s positive and ground points, and a mounting bracket. Maybe a light in the lid that turns on when lid is opened.

 

Is there a fuse puller inside the Prius? That is one handy tool!