P3006 & P3011 - what course of action should I take?

Personally, I would start with a proper diagnosis using a Scangauge, AutoEnginuity, or Graham miniscanner (no longer available.) That way to you can verify there are no other problems but the battery and get a metric of how bad it is.

Assuming it is the traction battery, GOOD, FAST, and CHEAP . . . pick two.

Bob Wilson

 

I agree with bob, get a good diagnosis. If you took care of your car and kept it nice, I would hang on to it and fix what is wrong.

 

Like the above have stated, make sure there is nothing else wrong with the car..

If not, then if you are mechanically inclined somewhat, and have a good understanding about electricity, You could even go as far as building the battery pack yourself! Save a few hundred over a re-involt pack..

If you just want "plug and go" per say, then I would go with a re-involt pack... Same warranty as toyota, but yet almost half the price of a new one from them...

If you have 3-4 thousand dollars burning a hole in your pocket, then of course go to the dealership.

Salvage pack IMO is a huge gamble that I prefer not to take.

 

To me... this is a no brainer. The car has nearly 300,000 miles on it. There is a good chance of a major failure in the near future. Don't spend too much money on it. I suggest you figure out which cell is bad and replace just that cell. You can order reconditioned Gen I cells on Ebay. I believe they range from about $25-40 but... I would go with this guy who seems to know what he's doing (I don't know him, this is just a judgement call on my part).
Toyota Prius 7.2V Nimh Battery Cells 6.5ah 01-03 | eBay
There are numerous posts on here about how to figure out how to fix the battery yourself. I have to warn you though that high voltage is involved so don't take on anything you don't feel comfortable doing...

 

"Best" for what purpose?

• Repair, diagnosis and engineering studies - AutoEnginuity
• Driving and diagnosis - Scangauge II

Bob Wilson

 

Go with the Scangauge II for now. You'll find it has other uses although you'll have to program in the XGAUGES which is as difficult as sending a phone, text message. Regardless, you'll be able to see what is going on and then make intelligent decisions.

Now if you plan to 'turn a wrench,' you can always follow-up with Autoenginuity.

Bob Wilson

 

Read your Problem, NOT to worry...

I have had the same problem with my car, & from start to finish, I got it solved with the help from this Forum.

All you need to decide is How much:

Time (Patience, Car of the road),
Effort (Diy),
Money (either on parts & or labour), you personally willing to put in!

Apart from Scangauge II, & autoenginuity!

"I wonder IF the Torque App, Bundled with an Android device, & elm bluetooth dongle will be able to help you Fault find?
(with the help from some downloadable PID database from Seawolf, & other members)

I know it works on GenII & Gen III, Un-aware if it works for 2001-2003 nhw11 model or not?

I guess that would be a cheaper hands on approach..

 

Maybe I'm just very cheap (which we know is def true) but, at this point, all he needs is some basic tools (wrenches/socket set) and a multimeter. The P3011 code tells him the specific batt block that's weak and, it will be one of those two cells that is low on voltage. Then its just a matter of replacing that cell. Of course that's if you choose to do it the way I suggested.
As for what UK suggested, the Gen I's OBD port is slightly different so the elm bluetooth dongle is not a good/cheap alternative unless you buy a cable and mod it (read this AE Pig-tail and code flasher | PriusChat paying close attention to post #5). Bob if I'm wrong on this please correct me. I do know that if you buy a Scanguage, you will have to specifically tell them you need the Gen I cable.
UK, did you just replace a cell or the whole battery?

 

Changed the battery to house the newer prismatic cells...

As long as the OP does not mind diving back into the same situation, anytime soon after this fix is applied, YES he can get away with just replacing 1 cell... & that too with wrench & some spanners...

 

You are correct with one alternative:

I tried to show how to make your own adapter using a RJ-45 socket and cable so the original cable does not have to be modified. This also makes it possible to 'program' the unit in the house instead of sitting in the car.

Bob Wilson

 

I hear ya on diving back in. I just don't see spending the money on a car w/ 278000 on it (the money to replace all 38 cells).

 

The 02 I resurrected did the brake light no go deal after I remanned the battery turned out I had a bad cell... Easy fix if the cars lasted this long you've probably replaced major things already for less then $100 and some time it could happily keep chugging....if not I'll buy it from you for more then scrap


Have fun !

Eric

 

The maximum, module pair voltages are supposed to be +/- 0.30 volts and you have two sets that are off. Double check the XGAUGE definitions (a simple error can give bad values) but it looks like the first pairs, four modules, are way off.

Bob Wilson

 

Ok instead of junking your car which has been great for you and taking on a payment or another car to have to learn its history, here is a link to a guy on ebay that is selling gen 1 cells $10 a cell plus $12 to ship 1 cell, 1 dollar shipping for each additional cell . if you need 4 cells it is worth a shot, heck, about 50-60 bucks to put the car back on the road, or 4 grand plus in a loan for another car. i would fix it and go from there.

Here is the link
01-03 Prius Battery Module 7.2 volt NIMH | eBay

 

mileage is just a number, if the car looks good, runs good, is not falling apart, or rusting apart, why not hang onto it. Its worth a shot in my opinion.

 

These readings indicate that only block 1 is bad and block 2 is receiving the extra charge that block 1 cannot handle (due to a bad cell). Block 2 is only .4V out of tolerance.
And... only one module/cell in block 1 is bad. This is evidenced by the following:
Each module contains six (6), 1.2V cells (connected in series) =7.2V. If you add 1.2V to 15.4, you will get 16.6 (which fits in neatly with your other block voltages). If two modules/cells were bad, it would read 14.2 or less. Usually one cell in a module goes bad (which is true in this case too). To determine which module is bad, simply open the battery and check each module w/ a DMM. The module that reads approx 6.0 volts is the bad one. All others will/should read 7.2V or higher. You will need to replace that module and, you will need to bleed the excess voltage off of block 2. This can be done w/ a resistor or a 6V lightbulb.