6.5" JBL woofer (86160-AC280) specifications?

(Most of this information copied from Prius JBL Audio system response, specs, and photos )

Front Woofers 16 cm (6.3") 2 ohm
Front Left Woofer (right assumed to be the same)

• Mounting depth, flange to end of magnet: 2.25" available mounting depth 3"
• Magnet diameter: 4" at widest, 3.5" at back end.
• Flange diameter: 6.5"
• Inner diameter of black mounting ring riveted to door: 5.75"
• Distance from front of mounting ring to the door glass, which is the first thing a deep speaker with a wide magnet would hit: 3". I am not saying a speaker with 3" mounting depth will work, because it would be too close to the glass. I would use a speaker with less than 3" mounting depth because when the door is slammed closed the window probably moves a bit. You would probably be fine with 2.5" mounting depth or less.
• Magnet diameter that might barely fit under the glass to extend past 3" safely: 1.75". If your speaker magnet angles in a cone shape, with smaller diameter the further you are away from the mounting flange, then you might be able to put a speaker with depth greater than 3" in the front if the diameter is less than 1.75" where it's 3" deep from the flange. That is a maximum dimension, and for safe tolerances I would only use something smaller. Your car may not measure the same as mine.
• The plastic interior door panel has a ring that presses into the foam on the factory speaker mounting flange to form a seal. The asymmetrical depth of this ring is .5 " at the shortest side, and 1.5 " on the longest side. Since the grille is as close as .5 " from the woofer, adding mounting spacers to get more mounting depth is not advisable.

Rear Woofers 16 cm (6.3") 3 ohm

Rear Left Woofer (right assumed to be the same)

• Mounting depth, flange to end of magnet: 2.25" available mounting depth +4"
• Magnet diameter: 3.375" at widest, 3" at back end.
• Flange diameter: 6.375"
• Inner diameter of black mounting ring riveted to door: 5.625"
• Distance from front of mounting ring to the side impact protection bar, which is the first thing a deep speaker with a wide magnet would hit: 4.5". This is plenty of room to mount almost any kind of woofer in the rear.
• The plastic interior door panel has a ring that presses into the foam on the speaker mounting flange to form a seal. The asymmetrical depth of this ring is .375" at the shortest side, and .625" on the longest side. Since the grille is as close as .375" from the woofer, adding mounting spacers to get more mounting depth is not advisable.

#1 How are these speakers ohms rated differently?

Amps Looks to be sending 45watts each channel, how much do you think each woofer is getting being...(copied from ) "The front woofers and tweeters as well as the center speaker are each connected directly to the amplifier with nothing between. The rear woofer and tweeter are connected in parallel to a single amplifier connection at the tweeter. The rear tweeters have a capacitor in series (mounted right on the tweeter in the door), which acts as a high pass filter to keep some of the lows from reaching it. The rear woofer is daisy-chained in parallel off of the tweeter/capacitor connector."

#2 Does anyone know the sensitivity db rating for these speakers?

 

Nobody!?

 

Also... could this be the reason that the front speakers tend to be a lil louder? How does that all work anyway since:

1. Front driver's tweeter (top front corner of front door) - 2.0 cm (0.8") 6ohm
2. Front driver's woofer (bottom front corner of front door) - 16 cm (6.3") 2ohm
3. Front passenger tweeter (top front corner of front door) - 2.0 cm (0.8") 6ohm
4. Front passenger woofer (bottom front corner of front door) - 16 cm (6.3") 2ohm
5. Rear driver's tweeter (top front corner of rear door) - 2.0 cm (0.8") 6ohm
6. Rear driver's woofer (bottom front corner of rear door) - 16 cm (6.3") 3ohm
7. Rear passenger tweeter (bottom front corner of rear door) - 2.0 cm (0.8") 6ohm
8. Rear passenger woofer (bottom front corner of rear door) - 16 cm (6.3") 3ohm
9. Center dash (above screen) mid-range (center channel, not subwoofer) - 6.5 cm (2.6") 2ohm

How does a "45x4" spread out with all those different ohms... Is the amp really 4 channel since it has separate wiring running to the front tweeters, woofers and center channel and the rear tweeters and woofers are ran in parallel to a single connection?
Seems to me this JBL Amp is more of a 7 channel amp.... hmmm...
ideas?

 

Pretty sure this is the JBL Amps model # 86280-0W240

 

If no one knows this...what has been others experience for replacing speakers? I read here in PC that tons of people are disappointed installing a 4-ohm speaker unless the db rating tends to be +90... could that mean that the stock woofer at 2-3-ohms is prob around ~83-85db? By going to a higher ohm load (getting less power out of the amp) but getting a higher sensitivity speaker (+90 db), a smidge of improvement can be expected?

 

'ello!?

 

Anyone know their Frequency Response?

 

Finally emailed Toyota inquiring...after JBL said they can't/won't tell me. LOL

 

Thank you for the advise/info. Just don't understand how the same front woofer can be 2ohm and in the back doors, the woofer is rater 3ohm. To me it makes more sense that the speakers are rated the same but that's not what others have said. Having the front rated lower ohms makes more sense since they are louder...getting more wattage from the amp. Main reason I was wanted to know was to pick out a better set a speakers and have the specs to compare. If the stock speakers are rated at 2-3 ibm but only 85dB sensitivity, then by getting a 4 ohms speaker rated at +90dB sensitivity then I shouldn't get a loss of volume. I've read that I wld need a +94 dB rated 2ohm speaker to compare with the 4ohm at 90dB. Just looking for some clarity.

 

My info of the speakers being rated different ohms is from : Toyota Prius FAQ - Stereo

The woofer model number is the same so thats where i'm confused as to why they are rated differently. usually a mfr will change the last number of the model number to indicate the ohm load such as - 86160-ac2804 - 4ohm or 86160-ac2802 - 2ohm or 86160-ac2808 - 8ohm...however the woofer in the front and rear doors are all 86160-ac280...nothing to indicate different ohms. How the FAQ page came up with the different ohm load, I have no idea.

So if I'm comparing 2 sets of speakers - One set rated at 95dB at 2ohm at 1w and another is rated 91dB at 4ohm at 1w...the 2ohm will sound *better?* and *louder?*

 

lol... i'm still learning myself. But considering a drive up to get my coilovers installed up there since it seems cheaper. May have to swing by and check out the ride.

 

Local Toyota Parts dept...nada..nothing..no specs, no info - please contact Harman Audio.

Final word from JBL/Harman Audio..."we designed the speaker and gave the specs and everything to Toyota. Goodbye." No customer support at all.

Toyota Customer Relations gave me a case number and said, we don't have ANY info on the dB rating or frequency response. OR why the front may be rated at 2-3ohm. They couldn't even tell me what ohm the speakers were. Please call Harman Audio back.


...what a joke.


Anyone else who has more technical skills in electricity and audio equip especially with the Toyota JBL line, please chime in.

 

I haven't tested the components myself...don't have a volt meter.. my specs are coming from the Prius JBL Audio system response, specs, and photos

so I'm trusting that he knew more than i do...

If you look at Toyota Prius FAQ - Stereo they state the ohm load for each speaker...however looking at the wiring for the amp...its shows that the front speakers..woofer and tweeter have seperate wiring. The front woofers and tweeters as well as the center speaker are each connected directly to the amplifier with nothing between. Where the rear are ran in parallel in daisy-chained format.

This is where the confusion lies...same speaker (supposedly) with different ohm load. Front 2 ohm..rear 3ohm.

My idea is to run the best set of most comparable ohm load speakers until i can snatch a better amp. Thus i'm searching for the best dB rating with the closest ohm load as the original so I don't lose volume by getting less power from running a 4 ohm speaker. I'll have to look into the MS8..i was also looking at the 'cleansweep' and 'audiocontrol' units.

Definitely been looking at the sound deadening material. Not looking at the 'peel and seal' for the asphalt smell and the because of the lack of thickness/density. Don't want to pay for Dynomat Extreme name... but like the density. Looking at 'Rattle Trap' - 'GTMat' or 'ZillaMat' - all in the 80 mil thickness and all butyl and asphalt mixture with reviews stating no lingering smell after install. - ALL relevantly inexpensive compared to the name brand alternative.

 

I'm currently looking at these two setups in 2ohm...

JBL P660C


Infinity 60.9CS




...haven't set firm on one pair. Once I do, i'll get a front and rear set....then later running this amp -

Pioneer GM-D9500F getting 100x4 at 2ohm.


Seems to have the best sensitivity and THD rating. Plus being its a ClassD it will run cool when I mount it in the cubby tray near the spare tire. I may run two of these...one for the components and another bridged for the small 2 JBL 8's i'm getting.... They are rated a great amp with good clean power with a small footprint....and relatively inexpensive.