Planing CanView and BMS+ conversion with lithium

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I cannot remember how hot they got. The A123 pouch cells also have a higher nominal voltage.

The best option is to select the number of cells to give a total voltage which corresponds to a SoC of 65% which is what the Prius aims for. You would need to read the CAN-view index website to find out what voltages correspond to what SoC values.

PIS or Plug-In Supply | Plug-In Conversions for Prius and Escape uses 76 headway cells. It is just a matter of trial and error I guess.

 

The OP of this thread went with Prismatic 40AH 3.2vdc at 72 count I believe. Some other use 76 cell count to reach a parity or close to 201-244vdc.

 

You may have more issues than just the pouch cells. Normally(generally) the ICE runs at start up for several function ...one of those being to increase SOC.....another being to get catys to operating temp...In winter the ICE runs more just because of low temps and you will have decrease effiencny.

 

Just asking but did you read the internal oem battery voltages or the system voltages?
The oem battery voltages does not increase that fast or drop really fast to again.
Maybe Because the a123 keep the voltages higher with lees sagg the ice will be turnt sooner?


Ps.No update.
Beeing Sick for a while now some cold that will not go with headache but i hope to.test it some time soon.



-Tapatalk

 

Anyone have an Orginal HybridInterfaces CANVIEW for sale ??

 

I have been thinking as to why you want the original Canview. So I thought that maybe you are searching for a Version 3 which uses the Prius analogue MFD. Leter model Gen2 Priis use a digital MFD and version 3 cannot be used so only version 4 can be used with a external LCD screen. Exactly which Canview are you asking for?

I am just helping clarifying what you are looking for. I do not have a Canview available for sale.

 

I had ordered one A123 20ah pouch cell from Aliexpress two weeks ago and it arrived today. It cost me $36 including delivery to Australia. It has a zipper fuse as expected. I am thinking of adding another 20ah of cells to my PHEV kit to make it a 70S2P (40AH) and removing my Enginer kits and just use them as a back-up UPS for my home.

 

Thank you Lopezjm2001 for this picture.

Tab thickness is 0.5mm
It seems that there is say 8x1x0.5mm so 4mm² only between these holes for this tab ?
Or do you think it is possible to press this tab between two plates very close the pouch "after" thoses holes ?

 

I cannot get an answer from anybody as to what the rating is for the zipper fuse. I guess it must be A123 top secret information. In any case my link plates covers most of the zipper fuse. It is definitely a lot easier to connect than tabless A123 cells. I am pretty sure these zipper fuses would have a short-circuit rating a lot greater than 100 amps.

Chances are these zipper fuses improves the short circuit protection overall.

 

A123
Made in USA
grant funded by US taxpayers
sold to China company
products found on ebay
Lastly a PC forum posters (aka wbk9) is (A123 employee) can explain some of these secrets

 

Maybe Ericbecky or the group buy thread he is OP may answer this secret..........

 

Nope, A123 is still going but he has signed a NDA (non-disclosure agreement).

 

I have ordered another 70 A123 cells for my PHEV kit.

 

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I have started putting together a 40AH A123 pouch battery pack, see photos. I have employed the use of metal plates I made in the workshop as a means of connection. To make these I needed a gillatine, drill press, miller and a linisher and some hand tools. The four thinner metal plates on the outside are stainless steel S/S316. The larger block in the middle is aluminium. The bolts are 4mm diameter S/S316, 20mm long with nuts S/S316 to match. There is still room on the 4mm bolt for electrical connections followed by a 4mm nylon lock nut. These were made for A123 cells with full size tabs.

They have the following dimensions:

........................Stainless Steel Plates x 4 ................................Aluminium Plate x 1
Length: .......... 45mm............................................................ 45mm
Width: ...........20mm..............................................................20mm
Thickness:........1.5mm.............................................................6mm





I am planning to split the pack into 5 groups of 14 cells (70 cells total). I have purchased a aluminum tool box to use as a enclosure for the battery pack. It will be bolted to the floor. The tool box is 950mm long.

 

I have made one of the cell groups as shown below. You can see the photos attached.

Each cell group is made of 28 cells configured 14S2P. Each group has a total voltage of about 46 volts which is safe voltage to work on. It is a lot safer than working on the complete battery pack of about 230volts which can kill you if you are not carefull.

Each of the five boxes will fit into the aluminium tool box. Each one fits into a green bag which can be easily removed and be taken away for repair. The sensor leads are 1.5mm2 PTFE insulated, multistranded, tin plated copper wires.

Each cell group is enclosed in a polycarbonate enclosure. The polycarbonate enclosure is made in three pieces, one piece is the front,bottom and back (6mm) which was bent by using a bending machine. The other two pieces are the two sides (2mm).

 

Looks like a nice start here, John.

BTW, since I see the question asked above, I don't know what the exact rating for the cell tab zipper fuse is, but it is at least 300 Amps, probably more like 500 or so.

A few comments/concerns:

1) Is that corrugated plastic you're using for dividers between your cells? For most EV applications, I would want to see something sturdier used here that also has good thermal conductivity. Ideally, these would extend and wrap around in such a way that they could make contact with a larger heat sink of some sort. What kind of max C-rates do you expect this system will see? (Sorry I can't take the time to catch up on this whole thread) It looks like you probably also want more compression force on the cells. This at least will mean heavier plates on the ends, so they won't buckle when you wrap the module up tight. 20 or 30 psi of stack pressure is recommended. I'm a bit worried about both thermal management and long term mechanical integrity of your stacks.

2) I would strongly consider using a non-conductive material for your outer box, or at least thoroughly spraying its interior with some sort of insulative coating.

3) Your method of joining the tabs together looks meaty enough, but I would worry about corrosion between dissimilar metals over the long haul and the accompanying impedance growth. You should weld these connections if at all possible. This will be especially critical for the sense line connections. A gas arc-pulse welder like the Sunstone Orion 250i is nice for welding batteries (but at about $18,000 it's not cheap). It looks like you're using thread locking mechanisms here, a must for any bolted joints carrying HV, so that's good. Putting some type of grease around these joints to retard corrosion may be a good enough fix for this issue.

4) I'm assuming the cell zipper fuses are present and in-circuit (not shorted by the tab clamps). What other fusing will the pack have? Selecting a module Voltage <50V is smart, makes module-level work much safer.

5) Will the pack have a manual service disconnect?

Fun stuff!

 

wb9k.

Do you know why pressure is recommended ?
A123 cells are flat and when not, say inflated, have been damaged and have to be replaced.
So why pressing on cells that are hard as a piece of wood ?