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Brake issue - ABS, Brake, and Parking Brake warning with tone...

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by PNorth, Feb 22, 2013.

  1. PNorth

    PNorth Junior Member

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    I started my 2008 Prius last night after being parked for about two hours, and after about a minute (I stayed parked as I was making a call), there was this loud, high-pitched tone that wouldn't shut off. Also, the red parking brake light remained on even though I had released the parking brake (I checked several times with that tone ringing), and the yellow brake warning light, and the ABS brake warning light remained on.

    I shut the car off to see if it was a glitch, and the tone remained on even after shutdown until I took my foot off the brake. When I started it up again, the tone and warning lights came back on. I tested stopping the car in the parking lot, and the brakes worked but locked up, bringing the car to skid stop. I pumped them several times, to make sure they would continue to work, then brought the car home carefully with the four-ways on. The tone and warning lights never shut off.

    When I got home, I felt for heat at all four wheels and detected heat coming from only the front left brake. I also checked to see if the parking brake was working properly, and it was.

    Coincidentally, I was just at the dealer the previous day for the HV water pump replacement recall, the steering shaft recall, and the accelerator reshaping recall. They did replace the HV water pump, they only replaced a bolt for the steering shaft, and they reshaped the accelerator pedal. I doubt this is relevant, but better to add info.

    Can a seized calliper cause the ABS light to come on?

    Many thanks,
     
  2. MacsVoltage

    MacsVoltage Junior Member

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    Check fluid and front brake caliper bolts for binding (not releasing and or frozen.) Common issue. Brake pedal switch could be misadjusted verify brake lights are working. Hope this helps. "Mac"
     
  3. sjr14221

    sjr14221 Member

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    i have those warning lights on my 2004. In my case, my dealer diagnosed it as faulty wiring harness to one of my rear tire sensors. he said all three things are on the same circuit, so all the lights light up when there is a problem with one of them. i did not have a continuous tone, but i have had an intermittent tone when i put car in park. it goes away if i restart and move the car a foot or so.
     
  4. northwichita

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    What hobbit wrote in a prior thread could help - hopefully its something this simple.
    Quote
    The high-pitched noise is probably the little alarm beeper mounted
    next to the brake ECU under the dash, above the brake pedal. See
    if that's what's making the noise. That's there to WARN you that
    there's a problem with the braking system in general and they may
    not work right, vindicated by your observation that they don't work
    right. You're probably on the direct hydraulic backup path, where
    your foot grabs the front brakes without power assistance and of
    course regen is pretty much out of the question.
    .
    See if the techs might have pulled your ABS relays up front in the
    engine-bay relay block, and forgot to put them back in. That would
    give you no pressure in the accumulator and cause all sorts of
    nightmares. Pulling those relays is sometimes a service practice
    to avoid high 12V battery currents suddenly kicking in when the
    brake pump runs [even with the car off]. Why they would have messed
    with them in that case I can't imagine, but lack of brake pressure
    is probably involved somehow with the problem.
    .
    _H*​
    hobbit, Aug 18, 2006

    Read more: http://priuschat.com/threads/abs-vsc-brake-lights-on.22701/#ixzz2LgCEJMCu
     
  5. nh7o

    nh7o Off grid since 1980

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    The car has set DTC's, so the first step is to find out which ones. You should pull blink codes from the ABS system to get details of what is wrong, if you don't have access to an OBD2 reader. Search for "ABS blink codes" for more, such as:

    ABS, VSC Lights... Weird!! | PriusChat

    Report back what you find.
     
  6. nh7o

    nh7o Off grid since 1980

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  7. PNorth

    PNorth Junior Member

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    Hey folks,

    Thanks for the replies! I'm definitely going to look into buying a OBD2 reader. Is there a particular one that is best for a Prius?

    I took the car into the dealer yesterday, and the hybrid specialist checked the callipers and found that none were seized. He figured the heat at the front right hub was being caused by that brake possibly working harder than the others. He did the diagnosis on the brake actuator, and found the resistance on all 6 testing points to be exactly where the should be. Getting to the connector terminal was a PITA. He had to take the wiper assembly off, and the metal pan that the wiper motors sit in to get anywhere near it. Then, in order to unlock the connector terminal, you have to pull a white locking slide out towards the front of the car, and then disconnect the connector pulling it to passenger side of the car. Unfortunately, pulling the locking slide out to release the connector is pretty much impossible without moving the big aluminum "hybrid system" inverter, as there is no room for the slide to be pulled out.

    The repair instructions eventually led to diagnosing the problem as with the Skid Control ECU. The parts guy comes out and tells me the part costs $2,088.00!!! I felt sick.

    The mechanic said there was nothing the could do until Monday, and that I'd have to wait until then, so he put the car back together since the Skid Control ECU is in the cabin near the glove box anyway. As he was putting it back together, I was asking him if it was a possible glitch, as I had a computer that once wasn't working, and when I took it in to the Apple Store, it worked fine. They figured that the computer was working again because it had been disconnected from power for a while and all the residual electricity had dissipated and the system had reset itself. Well, once the mechanic had the car back together, the high-pitched tone and all the warning lights were no longer on. He got out his laptop and checked the fault codes, and found none. We took it for a test drive, and the brakes worked fine again.

    He asked me to see if the problem comes back over the weekend. I'm really hoping I don't have to shell out over $2000.
     
  8. nh7o

    nh7o Off grid since 1980

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    Don't make any decisions until you have DTC's that you can read. Look for "mini VCI" on eBay for a reader, if you have an old Windows laptop. The Skid control ECU diagnosis is not definite yet, dealers can be just parts swappers, that may or may not get lucky on the first guess. If it is the problem, get a salvage ECU from, for example, autobeyours.com.

    Your mechanic may have disconnected the 12V battery, which will clear the codes. If there is a problem, they will return. BTW, you need to be sure the problem is not your 12V battery. If it is original from 2008, it is near the end of life.
     
  9. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    If the problem returns, look into the feasibility of buying a used skid control ECU from a salvage vehicle. Good luck.
     
  10. MacsVoltage

    MacsVoltage Junior Member

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    I recommend before any component purchase or replacement find a product called Sabilant 22A. With the ign. off disconnect the 12 volt and remove the harness connector at the ecu. Apply Sabilant 22A contact enhancer to both the ecu and the connector pins. Do not use anything other than this chemical. You can apply it with a small brush that comes with the product. The best price for a bottle of this usually can be found at the Volkswagon Dealership parts department or through World Pac automotive parts supplier. Hope this helps. "Mac"
     
  11. PNorth

    PNorth Junior Member

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    Hey guys,

    Thanks for all the help and tips! Very much appreciated!

    I'm pleased to report that the problem has never come back so far.