xenonsupply.com - H.I.D. kit. My personal review.

Hey all. I just received the XS HID kit. I didn't get the relay harness but have been considering it just out of caution. Thing is I'm not really sure what it does...some people say use it, some people say its straight Plugnplay on a 2012....what's the worst case scenario if you don't run the relay harness?

 

Assuming you have the standard 35w XS supply bulbs (any color temp):

Worst case scenario IMHO is improved reliability and easier install! In other words, no worst case without the extra relay, only upside. See my post before yours.


I guess you could blow a fuse, but unlikely. GIII headlight circuit is designed for 55watt OEM halogens. HIDs are 35 watts. Less heat, less current. People worry because of the start-up current. All lamps have start-up current. Your home lamps briefly (very briefly) draw close to 50A when turned on from cold. Halogens and HID too, but the HID ballasts are designed to cover this. Just like you don't have to upgrade your home wiring to install fluorescent bulbs which have ballasts with a starter, similar to HID.

Added relay circuits are needed when the load goes up. Say you install a 5A air horn on the normal 0.5A horn circuit (this is not accurate, just an illustration). THEN you need a relay with a direct connection to something supporting heavy current or else you blow the fuse every time you toot the horn.

I think people are concerned about:
1) These lights are BRIGHT, thus they must be higher power. Not true. These lights are bright because they are 4x more efficient at converting electricity to light. HIDs are about as efficient as LEDs which is why your brighter LED flashlight lasts longer on smaller batteries than your old incandescent bulb flashlight. LEDs are replacing HIDs more because of packaging flexibility (and no ballasts) than power or efficiency - they are getting more efficient all the time though.
2) HID lights require something like a 24,000v "spark" to start them. That is controlled by the ballast and has no impact on the car system. If something allowed sustained 24,000 volts entry to ANY part of the car, it is doomed and you might be too. Never say never, but highly unlikely. Ballasts would explode first.
3) Older cars (pre-Halogen - think sealed beams) that have only 35w headlamp circuits. On those a 35W HID might overload the circuit at start-up, so should use a relay.
4) People installing 55W HIDs, should probably use a relay.

Too much information?? I do go on...

 

Actually this is great info. Thanks a lot.

 

It seems like XexonSupply changed there manufacture.
People order after June seems to have problem with fitting and missing H11 male connector.

 

I need to hold on getting these then XD

 

I ordered mine a month ago before reading this thread.
True, they came without the plastic connector housing to "Plug and Play" into the car's H11 connectors.
I only had bare long narrow spade pins.

I emailed them and said "Hey, this is not 'Plug and Play' as seen in your install video".
XexonSupply quickly mailed me the missing connectors. They were just the bare plastic H11 connectors with no environmental boots or wire seals.
Oh well, I'll use little sealant where the wires enter this connector and hope for the best.
Plus you will have to be careful to pin these connectors properly.

You might want to clarify what they are selling you before placing your order these days.

 

I Was ready to order the kit like the OP got- but seeing what's happened to the quality of the bulbs and connectors in the XenonSupply kit (while still charging premium pricing!) since the OP got his I decided to go with a $49.99 (including shipping) 4300K HID kit from O-NEX which has a one year warranty, states it's made in Japan and has actual connectors with weatherproof seals.

I'll post back with results when I get the kit and install it.

 

I was wrong...no connectors in my kit! Time to call XS!

Some photos after installation was done. Took me some time to get the bulbs in, but I love it now that its in!

In case anyone is wondering....The 37mpg is because I usually drive to and from work and school which is such a short drive that the ICE never really shuts off. Its under 35* here now so by the time its warm I have already parked. Kind of wish my commute was longer!

Matt

 

I just finished installing these on my wife's car. All the connectors were there. Aside from my own stupidity, it was easy. If you get the Xenon Supply kit, when you look at the light, there is a rubber grommet at the base. Make sure it is pushed all the way down and over the retaining ring. Otherwise you will spend a LONG TIME trying to get them in. Once I pushed the grommet out of the way (thanks to Brent at Xenon Supply for catching it), it was a piece of cake. Can't wait to try them out tonight.

 

This what I end up ordering

HID Kit H1 H3 H6M H4 H7 H8 H11 H9 H10 H13 9004 9005 9006 9007 D2S D2R 35W 6000K | eBay

This kit does come in bare wires too but what I like is the AC ballast
And here is the reason why...
What's the difference? AC vs DC HID Systems

 

I, too, spent quite a while trying to install the bulb sockets, finally realizing the rubber grommet also was not attached to the retainer. After correcting that, install was done in seconds!. Too bad I didn't read this first!. Thanks.

 

FWIW- Just got my 4.3K HID bulbs from xenonsupply.com yesterday.
They're back to shipping the same bulbs pre-wired with two single lead sealed connectors as in the OP's first post.
Guess they got a lot of grief over the bare bulbs without leads they were sending out for a time.

 

I would love to install these HID lights into my new 2013 PiP, but I'm really inexperienced when it comes to modifying anything on my car. Most I've ever done is change a worn-out battery, a few spare tires, and the engine air filters on my old cars. Even then, I always seemed to have trouble getting everything to fit back the way it did before I went and mucked around. I watched the install video on XSupply, and it does look simple enough, but of course that's watching someone with experience and knowledge of what they're doing. I'm still deathly afraid that I'll screw something up, mess up the warranty or something like that.

Those that have done the mod before - what do you think?

 

I believe I will order a set now, thanks for the update ny_rob!

 

It was easy. Just read my note above about the rubber grommet.

 

It's all plug-n-play, no wire cutting, filing, drilling, etc.
The only tool you need is a 10mm socket to remove the coolant tank (2 bolts) 60 second job- the rest is by hand.
Just watch the video- it walks you through every step.
The only thing I added was in addition to the double sided foam tape- I used 3 short self tapping screws to hold each ballast on the the plastic rather than just double sided foam tape by itself.

It's easier than changing the oil...

 

I got mine from XENONSUPPLY and it was pretty darn easy to do.




I went with the 6000K so they would match my parking lights.

 

If u can change a headlight bulb then u can install these.

 

y'all convinced me - ordered

$110 shipped! Can't wait!

 

Make sure you wipe the bulbs w/alcohol pad just before installing them- and wear clean disposable gloves while working with them.