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2001 prius code p3001

Discussion in 'Generation 1 Prius Discussion' started by yotatoter, Dec 27, 2012.

  1. usnavystgc

    usnavystgc Die Hard DIYer and Ebike enthusiast.

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    Well then this might be part of the problem. If you put the key to IG ON (not going to start first) and your ready light comes on, that is not correct. The ready light should NOT come on if you go straight to IG ON (only if you go to START firs and then to IG ON).

    At least that's what I think it should do. I don't have my Gen I here right now but I just tried it on the Gen II and that's exactly what happened. The Gen II did not go to ready until I engaged the "START" command.
     
  2. yotatoter

    yotatoter Member

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    You are right.so sorry . I just tried it. sorry for the big mix up..... My ready light does NOT come on till I hit start.. AGAIN MY BAD.....
     
  3. usnavystgc

    usnavystgc Die Hard DIYer and Ebike enthusiast.

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    Now, do you have the same results with the test?
     
  4. yotatoter

    yotatoter Member

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    I am sorry,no the battery only shows 12 volt or so with the key on engine off. I just have the next test in mind that I got from " alldata" It says to find the problem to unhook the 2 power cables from the battery to invertor and than turn key on and check codes. Will try that and update...thanks again
     
  5. usnavystgc

    usnavystgc Die Hard DIYer and Ebike enthusiast.

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    When you run this test, what are the results?

    The first step is to clear the P3009 trouble code and then turn the key or push button to key on/not ready mode, (This is IG ON on a Gen I or the second position on the ignition switch (after ACC)) wait 30 seconds and if the code comes back, the leak is in the battery case. If the code does not set, turn key or push button to "ready mode"(start on the Gen I) and immediately shift to neutral and stay this mode for 30 seconds. If the code returns, the leak is in the power cables or inverter. If the code did not set, shift to drive and if the code resets now, the leak is in the transaxle. This is something that can be done in about minutes with a scan tool while never removing any components and not leaving the driver seat.
     
  6. yotatoter

    yotatoter Member

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    If I run that test, the minute I turn the key on not start, the light comes on. I than pull the code and get the codes I posted in the 1st part of my post. If I try to erase the code with the key on"obviously key needs to be on" the code will appear within a second. If I try to erase the code with the car running it will slow the engine down and just die. That seems to indicate problem with the battery pack,but when I pulled that pack and put it in a different 01 prius it performed as it should. I am not able to work on it today,but hope to have some time on Sat.
     
  7. yotatoter

    yotatoter Member

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    YEEESSSSSSS,the problem has been found. It is a bad transmission.For some reason all the lights would come on as soon as I turned the key on. Rechecked the codes and found p3140 which is the safety interlock feature. that is the only one that will come on till you shift the transmission from neutral to park and than the codes p3009 and code p3000 and p3001 appear. Some how I did not reset my autoenginuity and it kept showing the same codes till I learned how to unhook and re hook the code function and now it will show the codes that indicate its the transmission.Now the next step is to find a good transmission...
     
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  8. usnavystgc

    usnavystgc Die Hard DIYer and Ebike enthusiast.

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    Good deal. That result shows that the test given to us by ReInvolt worked flawlessly since the P3009 code did not appear until you went from neutral to park. Can you run it one more time to see if it sets when you go to drive (instead of park)?
     
  9. yotatoter

    yotatoter Member

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    Yeah ,I tried it 3 times. The codes would not appear till I put it in drive or park..It did not matter if it was drive or park, either one would set the code. The thing that thru me off was that the minute I turned the key on the triangle of death would appear and I could not get it to go away,ever.. For some reason the code p3140 did not always appear and some times it indicated that there were no codes,but the triangle of death was always lit..I still am not sure why the code 3140 shows up because I put that back together but that I will tackle another day after the trans. gets replaced. I just chalked it up to operator error,because I just got the Autoenginuity a few days prior to this..So to make a long story short I am not sure why it worked the way it did but the last 3 times I tried it the p3001 and p3009 would only appear when I went to drive or park.. I am not the best at typing clear pictures ,but if you have any questions about what I tried or did send me a message and I will give you my phone number..Thanks again for all your help...
     
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  10. usnavystgc

    usnavystgc Die Hard DIYer and Ebike enthusiast.

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    Good deal. Now we know how to isolate a p3009 fault without a megger our other additional test equipment. Thanks to our friend at ReInvolt.

    I think his names is Dave Taylor.
     
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  11. yotatoter

    yotatoter Member

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    Okay follow up on this car,did I mention I bought it at from an a garage that worked on it and could not find what was wrong with it? Any how its a project car so its taking me some time to get to it. I fixed the code 3140 "iTHINK THATS WHAT IT WAS' . The garage had taken off the cap on the side of the invertor where the MG1 motor wires come from and they had put the cap on backwards so the safety plug was not closing. To get on with the story I pulled the trans cover off MG2 side and pulled the motor out,but it looks brand new. They had replaced the trans at some point as it was marked with yellow marker on the covers and i found a few brackets that were not tightened properly. So I still have to find out why I am getting the code. I will find the problem and update you guys when I find it.. Do any of you have any more ideas on what to check,because I have changed a few of these MG2 motors and i know what they look like when they are burned out. Also this car drives perfect,no shuddering or anything like that.. Any more help out there??? thanks a bunch..
     
  12. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    I got lost at "this car drives perfect, no shuddering or anything like that" . . . are there any failure symptoms? Any codes? What is wrong?

    Bob Wilson
     
  13. yotatoter

    yotatoter Member

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    Well I should have said this is an extension of the 1st part of this post. There are NO failure syptoms,except the codes that I posted in the beginning . I get p3001 and p3009 from the battery ecu after I start the car and put it into park or drive. It will not throw any codes in nuetral...I will check the cables going to the MG2 motor and I also found a loose bolt floating around inside the invertor that they lost to tighten the MG2 motor wires at the connection port . I will check to see if I can find any evidence of there being a problem from that.. Does that make anymore sense if you read from the front or beginning of the post?? I will check on some things today and try to update.. I would like to take some pics and post them if I can figure how to post pics...
     
  14. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    I hope there isn't ... we can all toast your good luck! (Much better than toasting your car.)

    -Chap
     
  15. yotatoter

    yotatoter Member

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    Well I believe I found the problem,it appears that the bolt had been grounding against the invertor inside as evidenced by some burn marks inside the bars.Will try and post some pics..Stand by..
     
  16. yotatoter

    yotatoter Member

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    Well,I got the problem fixed. That bolt was indeed the issue. I pulled the MG2 out just to make sure ,and it looked brand new. I put everything back together and there are now NO CODES!!!!!!!
     
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  17. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    That's awesome ... inverter takes internal short from loose metal bolt and survives! :)

    -Chap
     
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  18. usnavystgc

    usnavystgc Die Hard DIYer and Ebike enthusiast.

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    Gen I's are bullet proof.
     
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  19. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    I still have a 12V inverter board from an NHW11 that the 'smoke escaped.' A couple of power MOSFET leads became fuses that promptly blew. <grins>

    Bob Wilson
     
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  20. yotatoter

    yotatoter Member

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    I got lucky on this one!!!! I still cant quite figure out why it did not fry the invertor. I drove it about 8 miles total and you would think with the bolt bouncing around in there it would have caused some smoke!!!!