Finest, greenest, & safest taxicab in the world. The story of cab 2545

I think you will be well served by Ritar RA12-55 described in one of these (much higher AHr):

Fitting mobility 12volt AGM battery. | PriusChat

I would also use something like this:

12 Volt Battery Saver Auto Disconnect Switch

 

Also, I hope you didn't replace with the Toyota one which is not known to withstand a deep cycle discharge, compared to many other AGM batteries.

 

A few hours in heavy traffic is nothing compared to 10+hours each and every day in it. My battery would get hot some days - not due to the climate (I live in the UK ) but because of the driving conditions.

Did my inverter fail because of the continued cycles? Was it heat? Wear and tear?

 

Statistically a few batteries will last a long time. A few won't. It's where most of the batteries fail that is important. I think you got a lemon. Or maybe US specifications for the Prius have higher standards to meet. I don't see how UK or Greek environments are any more harsh on the engine than NYC, Boston, or San Francisco. Small streets tight streets. Really high and really low temps except SF but it has many hills.

Oh and I am really looking forward to OP's continual updates.

 

I totally agree I drive about 2 hours in NYC traffic a day but still a lot of Gen IIs are runnign !!!

 

MAYBE SACRIFICING MILEAGE FOR BATTERY LIFE IS THE ANSWER TO THIS.. IN MANY INSTANCES OVER THE WORLD... FALSE ADVERTISEMENT IS ILLEGAL

 

Makes you wonder if the Prius is 'tuned' for America driving conditions (America being its biggest market) and thus it excels there, but the more congested, shorter distance before turns, stop start driving in Europe where open roads of any type in a city are unheard of, might be causing issues to the car?

Someone mentioned about the car continuously cycling between 2&3 bars (37%-48% SOC) in the taxi job, and I have to agree. I have also noticed that my HV battery plummets like a stone when the SOC gets to 3 bars and cycles quickly between 2 & 3 bars. When driving on the open road, the battery is very happy and stays between 6&7 bars. I think if I was still using the car as a taxi, there would have been a battery failure by now, but the new commuting use of the car has helped extend its life. The brakes and tyres now seem to be lasting much much longer too

 

Perhaps taxis need a larger 12 volt AGM battery or even a dual 12 volt setup. The accessories such as taximeter, radio and credit card terminal would drain their fair share of 12 volts and you probably keep the interior at a comfortable temperature too, which would use more.
Since the HV battery recharges the 12 volt, you will drain the HV by sitting in traffic or at a stand more than a Prius that has not been converted.
One thing that taxis in Japan (and all other drivers, come to think of it) is switch off their headlights when waiting at traffic lights. It has a few courtesy advantages too; you don't dazzle cross traffic or pedestrians. That's 110W when you're at a stop that doesn't need to drain. Small, but it adds up.

In Australia Hybrid taxis have been fairly popular, but the bigger Ford Falcon with LPG tuned engine is the weapon of choice, since LPG is about half the price of petrol. A Falcon with 700,000km on the clock is not unusual, but it must be looked after well to get there. The Australian-built Camry Hybrid is starting to make inroads, perhaps with those who consider ancillaries such as brake pads.

Here's a photo of 3 Canberra taxis with 3 fuels: Skoda Superb (diesel), Toyota Camry Hybrid (petrol), Ford Falcon (LPG)

 

The Skoda Superb diesel is a popular choice here. It's cheap, comfortable with a large boot. They chose not to sell the Camry hybrid here, though the Avensis diesel is popular and Ford offer the Mondeo but not with a factory fit lpg option. LPG makes sense in some ways but the lack of factory fit conversions causes issues with warranties and supply is hit and miss.

I wish our roads were as open as that too



And that's not even rush hour

(notice the HUD display just below the right hand tail light of the Renault?)

 

Is that 0 mph or 0 km/h, I can't tell.

 

lol. Exactly

 

Luckily, the streets in NYC are wide open.

 

QUEENS AINT MUCH BETTER HEHEHEE

 

I believe the those bars are not a linear representation of the SOC !!! That is why you see that ... anyone who has that info handy please post it or link...

 

If this fact? I find Eco mode sluggish and the pedal insensitive. The suspension was different on the Gen2 but I believe the Gen3 is the same as the Prius is very soft by European standards, as is the steering (thankfully).

My car broke down again yesterday and the AA (UK version of AAA) man was telling me about a taxi driver who had one and that he'd had nothing but trouble with his. I didn't tell the guy that I used to be a taxi driver. I also appreciate that one mans word is totally subjective and not worthy as total fact, but I'd be curious to hear this taxi drivers experiences and whether it's a gen2 or gen3.

I know some diesels have issues in town use and that was the reason I chose the Prius, but it also appears the Prius might actually be worse. I had a Peugeot diesel as a taxi and ran it to a much higher mileage than I used the Prius for and it was fine. OK it had the usual French electrical gremlins and was a bugger to start one cold frostly morning, but it never conked out at the side of the road.

I've NEVER had a car conk out on me twice since the old Datsun I owned 20 years ago. Even the old Rover 214 I had only broke down once, but this Prius is a pup I hate to say.

 

Oh, my. What happened??

Sorry to hear that

 

Don't know. No codes were stored. Working fine again. In fact it started working fine the moment the AA man turned up. I managed to get it to work as I couldn't stop on the motorway, but it was very hesitant, knocking and running the engine continuously.

Didn't investigate much further as it's now all ok again but it's either a dodgy coil pack or some ignition issue, maybe a fowled spark plug or maybe even contaminated fuel. Is any of this the cars fault? If it's the fuel then no, but if it's the other items then yes as it has a full dealer service history.

I am also wondering if it was condensation in the manifold as I'm sure I've read that somewhere on here lately - connected with the rough running on idle issue? It's been cold and dry here, well about -5c at night and 1c in the day for weeks, but on Monday the weather turned and the temp went upto 15c and it was quite damp in the air. The condensation theory might make sense for this and once it was all sucked in, the problem resolved. Probably account for why no codes show. But if I wanted a car that conked out when it was damp (remember I live in the UK where it's damp all the time), then I'd either buy an old Austin Mini or a Citroen. I don't expect a Toyota to conk out.