BACK UP CAMERA FOR 2012 PRIUS two TOUCH SCREEN- NON NAV

My post on page 10 definitely works and I also recommend the installation by Willco on pages 11 and 12. They work like the factory install. Shift into reverse and the view shows up on the HU screen. Both use a 12 volt CCD camera from Ebay for the Prius. The camera is waterproof and has a clip-in flange that pops right into a cutout in the rear trim piece to the left of the license plate. (Camera is approximately a 1 1/4 inch cube with the flange around it at a 45 degree angle. Don't get one with an attached light.) Many are available on EBay. Search for "Prius backup camera". Should be under $40. Many are $15-20. Make sure it is CCD.

"Willco"s installation: Because it is 12 volt operation, you need to either modify it using "Willco" instructions on pages 11-12 by cutting into the molded circuit in the cable and need to be able to do very fine soldering work with some resisitors (Surface mounted miniature work). Then re-insulate and install. The modification converts the camera to be able to work with the 6 volts supplied by the Prius. Essentially this is the factory install with a camera that works like the factory camera but requires you to have the ability to modify the electronic cicuitry.

My installation emulates a factory install by incorporating a circuit that makes a 12 volt camera look like a 6 volt camera to the Prius. It is covered on page 10. It's disadvantage is that it requires building the circuit. I have used conventional sized components, as I do not have Surface mount equipment capability.

I did read most, if not all of the postings in this thread and from reading and reviewing, I think the "successful reports" include some that do not work like a factory install. Comments have included workarounds like "Shift into reverse immediately on powerup" and "I can live with the camera constantly on". I mention these not to be critical but to clarify that I do know that Willco's and my install do work exactly as "factory installs".

Willco also physically installed his wiring/cabling to be "factory" as he was able to connect to the connector in the roof located near the ceiling light in the back seat, about a foot in from the rear opening. He was able to reach the connector by using "long reach tools (pliers)" after dropping the headliner (interior roof panel). I could not do this but was able to see the connector when I dropped the back edge. I think now that if you unfasten the roof light, the headliner will come down so you can reach the connector witout creasing it.

My camera and (I believe) Willco's came with 4 wires. The power is typically black and red (O volt and 12 volt, respectively. Video is a shielded wire with a yellow RCA type plug. Connect the power wires per either my circuit (12 volts from the Rear Wiper motor light blue wire just above the camera opening) or Willco'smodified camera. Connect the video center lead to the Prius red wire and the shield to Prius black. I ran the wires from the hatch door through the bigger rubber wire tube to the roof and then down the left side behind the side door panels and trim strips to the connector block behind the left kick panel. As described in the prior paragraph, Willco connected to the connector about a foot into the headliner just forward of the rubber tube. I used silicone lube (swimming pool equipment, just a light wiping) to get the RCA connector and wires through the tube. My camera came with 15 foot wires (2 video plus 1 power), but I needed to add a 4th wire for the ground reurn to Prius orange.

Hope this helps. I've been working on getting Torque (a system monitor via OBD) working on my Prius. It's also an engineering project, but heavily software. Came back to this thread to see what was posting.
Dan4500

 

Willco's hook up on #211 looks simple but I only see 3 wires being hooked up. I did order the camera last night.

 

Yes, he was able to use 3 wires because the power return (gnd) on his camera was common with 1 of the video signal wires. He was able to figure this out b/c he took the power regulator module apart. I did not take it apart so to be safe I just added the 4th wire. It may or may not be necessary, but just to make sure I used it just to fully follow the 4 wires to the connector. It takes away having to mess with differences with the huge number of different cameras.

Cheers, we used to call it belt and suspenders design. Nowadays, they leave out lockwashers, and things come loose. The shift linkage in my Ford Ranger nearly fell apart b/c no lock washers.

 

I'm having trouble finding the MPS 8550 PNP I have found a few 2n2222 npn, this stuff is new to me and I don't want to buy the wrong stuff.

 

You can use a 2n2907 for the PNP. Might be easier to find. Any PNP that's good for 0.5 Amps max collector current and greater than 25 volts collector breakdown will work. The circuit over drives to insure saturation so there is no power dissipation issue.

Dan.

 

Which one for the resistors
(NTE QWCC218 - Res-1/4W 1.8K-Ohm 5%) or (NTE QW218-10 - 1/4W 1.8K Ohm Metal Film Flameproof Resistor) or are they the same?

 

I do appeciate all the help!

 

Either will work fine. Are you using a circuit board?

 

yes

 

I built my circuit board, just waiting on the camera. How is the best way to insulate the circuit board to prevent it from touching something and shorting out?

 

Look at the 1st 2 photos I posted on page 10. I used non-metalic type of duct tape that has a cloth substrate. Covered the whole circuit board, wrapped around both sides. Then wire tied it thru holes in the hatch lid near where the camera mounts. Make sure the tape has no aluminum coating. Mine was black fabric. Can get from auto supply store as hose repair tape or from Lowes, Home Depot. The circuit is low power dissipation so there will be no problem with heat.

Let us know how it works.

Dan.

 

Can electrical tape be used to wrap it?

 

Sure. You just need to cover all the conducters on circuit board that might contact any part of the Prius chassis. There's plenty of clearance space behind the inside trim piece.

 

this is my first post but I have visited this website since I bought my prius(2012 II) last almost two month ago.

I prepare all circuit w/ wire and diagram to connect but I hesitated to install it because I don't have much experience with removing cover/trims/panels. Today, I found this video from youtube.com.

I wish to have my own garage to follow this project ^^

 

Upon further thought, you can cut a piece from the plastic top of a margarine tub or coffee can lid, punch some holes in it and use wire ties to hold it between the circuit board and the metal of the hatch lid. Tie the board with the solder side against the plastic. The component side will be okay under thr plastic trim piece.

 

Now I'm really confused. I have 5 wires and not sure which is which? Using Dans circuit board on page 10. I have everything ready as soon as I get the camera wires figured out.

 

Excuse me 6 wires.

 

It looks like you got a short and cutoff video cable (yellow jack)and a long power cable (red jack). Check with a meter or test light.

The yellow plug: I think you will find that the red wire does not connect to anything; it just is molded in with the yellow plug. Check that it has no continuity to the yellow or black wires but that it is just a wire by checking for continuity from end to end.

If this is true then the yellow wire is vid + and black is vid - and the red plug is for power. Red goes to the PNP collector and black goes to the return on my circuit.

My camera came with a long video cable that reached to thefront kick panel and short power cable. Looks like yours is the other way. Can you get a long video cable? They are at Frys or best buy. Make sure it has yellow ends (for video). 18 ft should reach the kick panel. Red and black are for audio and may not work.

Are you going to the front kick panel? Willco went to the connector near the ceiling light so the wires wereshorter. But I could not figure how to get in there without creasing the headliner. Learned later that I probably could have removed the ceiling light to drop the headliner. It is cramped getting into the kick panel. The wires are thin and the orange return seems very delicate. I used a Xacto knife, solder and electrical tape. Silicone lube to get through the left tunnel tube.

Let us know of your success.

Dan4500

 

Thanks Dan
I checked the yellow plug and the two red wires have no conductivity to outer or inner prongs. So it does appear you right the yellow is the center prong and black is the outer. The wire is short because I cut it due to I have already ran wires to my hatch. I ran all four just in case I ever need it, it's already there. I use to do car trim work at a dealership when I was young so with my little knowledge I removed the headliner and extended my wires from there. The wires are neatly connected to the factory plug. I removed the back side panels and tabs in back, dome light and grab handles in the back and that gave me plenty of room to work. I did not take any photos because I did it in my spare time off and on at work. Thanks again and I will let you know how it went when I get a chance to finish.

 

Works like a champ!
Thanks Dan and everyone that worked on this project and shared with everyone.
The only help I can personal give is follow Dan4500's instructions.
Worked for me with no circuit board building experience. I only had experience in the trim part and a lot of stereo wiring many years ago.
Thanks again!