Water Pump Replacement @ 80k?

Check out this other recent thread...common problem...
re: picture, we know about the bright pink salts. You can DIY cheaper if so inclined.

Well I am one who procrastinated replacing the water pump, and right now holding tight at 120k miles. Mine leaked at one point around 70-80k miles. I realized the antifreeze fluid level was low, and bought a gallon of the special Toyota fluid, and filled up. Now not leaking.

Many folks replaced these water pumps under extended warranty, but I did not have one.

Read more: http://priuschat.com/threads/waterpump-replacement.124318/#ixzz2PyiJEam1

 

+1

I had the bright pink salts on the hood liner and on the pulley also.

I bought my 2008 at 85k miles and it ran fine for 20k miles no leaks. Somewhere between 105k and 110k it emptied the overflow tank on the pulley and hood liner so I rinsed off the hood liner and the pulley and have driven 15k no further leaking.
Thinking back a bit the problem could be caused by a sticky radiator cap blowoff valve which I inadvertently fixed when I took the cap off and I 'popped' both valves a couple of times to make sure they were not sticking.
I wanted to see how much coolant was realy lost in addition to 1 tankfull.

Please do not remove the cap when the system is HOT!!!!! heed the warnings

I had a similar problem on a S10 Blazer at 5k miles that could not keep coolant in the cooling system, it would come pouring out at every hose to metal joint, but none at the coolant pump seal tho. Changing the cap fixed it until the coolant pump seal started dripping at 150k but that is another story.

 

What is a radiator cap blow off valve and what are you "popping"?

 

Brynn,

There are four different water Pumps in your Prius. The recall replaced the electric pump that circulates coolant for the Inverter (high voltage electronics) and transmission. The one that the dealer showed you is the mechanical coolant pump for the Internal Combustion Engine (ICE). Both of these loops need to have the coolant drained and refilled at 100k miles and then every 50k miles thereafter, but the dealer was supposed to have drained and refilled the Inverter loop as part of the recall, so plan accordingly. You can at least wait till 100k miles to replace the ICE coolant pump when you also drain and refill the coolant with Toyota Super Long Life (Pink, pre-diluted) coolant. I replaced my ICE coolant pump at 150k miles as a preventative measure.

The other two coolant pumps are electrically operated, one for filling and emptying the ICE coolant "Thermos" that runs as you shut down and start up your Prius. The other circulates ICE coolant to the heater core when called for.

One other coolant item that has caused some issues is the coolant valve that directs flow into and out of the thermos. If the ICE coolant loop is low you may get an OBDII code that says it is stuck. The coolant acts as a lubricant for this valve and may free it up when topped off.

JeffD

 

I personally would say "NO" but this is the question that I would ask. Is the technician that said you need your ICE water pump replaced a CERTIFIED Prius mechanic? at my stealership - not all of them are certified to work on a Prius and do not have to be to: change oil/filter, tire care, etc.
It is a known fact that Prius (ICE) water pumps weep pink fluid in their routine daily operation.
I have personally been through this with my stealership more than once about them saying it needed the waterpump replaced but then when checked by a certified Prius mechanic at my stealership they said no it is within its normal weepage. I would follow jdenenberg's post and recommend replacement when you drain and fill the fluid at 100K as a preventive measure. (Personally my 2006 has turned the century mark several times and I have only replaced the ICE coolant pump once in the first 300K of its life.)

 

The ICE Radiator 'Cap which is visible after the Radiator Cover is removed.

The radiator 'cap' is realy a cap plus a sping loaded valve to let the system pressurize when it heats up eventually routing the excess fluid to the over flow tank (which is open to the atmosphere) plus another valve within the larger valve that lets fluid back into the radiator from the overflow tank when it cools.
The overflow tank in a Prius does not need to be pressurized thank gooodness ( yes I have had to change them in a previous VW and Volvos. A well working radiator 'cap' prevents the hoses and radiator cores from collapsing/cracking and leaking.

 

I cannot argue with waiting until 100K to replace the pump with the coolant change, as long as the OP checks the coolant level frequently and remains on the lookout for active leakage. Most likely there will not be a major increase in leakage, but it has happened.

 

I replaced mine when it started leaking at 70K because I didn't want to have to watch it and worry over it.

 

Wrong car for the wait and see on a ICE pump. There's no temp gauge and by the time the CEL TEMP gauge activates its way past overheat.

The engine has an aluminum head and does not appreciate any overheating. $

So thats $200 for a new pump chasing $2000. for a new motor.

 

I was wondering, the Prii are known for their water pump issues. Would it be a good idea to put some water pump lubricator in the radiator? I would imagine the Toyota rad coolant is already lubricated, but would there be any problem with adding some aftermarket radiator/water pump lubricating fluid as extra protection?

 

I would agree with Hobbit (at the bottom of the linked page), that the belt on these is too tight, and could lead to premature failure.

100K maint - 2

I backed my tension off a bit, and it does not slip, and works normally after a year.

 

OK really dumb question: how do I open the cap? I unscrewed it less than a turn and it loosened but still couldn't be removed easily. Since the cap is thin sheet metal and the tube is plastic I am afraid to yank on it.

 

1. Wait for the radiator cap to be cool to the touch.
2. Rotate the cap counter clockwise until it hits the stop, then pull the cap up. It should not be difficult to remove.

 

Yes thats a good idea. I have been using this stuff for a very long time and never any problem with my cooling system in any car. In fact I use a bottle in the Inverter Coolant tank also (same color) and it stopped the aluminum dry white powder residue on the cap. Found in most auto parts stores:


Red Line Synthetic Oil - WaterWetter® Coolant Additives - WaterWetter®

 

The cap is under the black plastic cover right? On mine by now the near-by plastic screw is missing so I just lift the plastic a little and reach under and turn the cap and it lifts off.

 

Thank you for the precise instructions as always! I did let it cool overnight. I will try pull harder next time.

Yes I removed the plastic cover. I probably wasn't lifting hard enough. Thanks!