DRLs for Prius v five

It is strange you would connect anything to a spark plug wire. It makes no sense at all.

Harnesses are wires, and wires cost money. They may make different harnesses, I agree. (On a side note BMW doesn't seem to do this as much.)

BUT

To me the Main Body ECU is the same, (looking at the wiring diagram that I found more closely.) It is the connections comming out that are different. That means it's a wiring thing, which is feasable. It would be likely that making different ECUs for different countries is just not cost effective. The wiring harness, yes, but then you can fix/rearrange/replace to get the results wanted.

Here is an update of what I realize needs to be done. I stand corrected, the correct DRL Module, (have to figure out if this is the same as Relay) has 6 pins that all need to be connected.

I don't know what the letters translate to color wise but I can summarize with the letters as shown on the schematics.

All connections to the DIM Relay will be removed and connected to a DRL Module/Relay. (There is an exception, the line W from DIM 2 may need to be separated from line B/DRL 1 which you will move line B to the DRL module.) Sorry, this one is a little confusing.

from 20A H-LP HI MAIN line B is disconnected from DIM 3 and connected to DRL 6

from Main Body ECU 22 to connector 2C 22 line Y disconnected from DIM 1 and connected to DRL 4

from Main Body ECU 25 to connector 2C 35 new line L to DRL 2

remove from DIM 5 line B and connect to DRL 1
remove from DIM 5 line R and connect to DRL 5

New line W-B from DRL 3 to ground A3 of the LH headlight assembly. Looks like you attach it to another line W-B.

Done, DRLs...

For the 22 to connector 2C 22 and 25 to connector 2C 35

the first number is the pin from the Main Body ECU, in this case 22 and 25

The second number is the pin number in connector 2C, so look for connector 2C and the pins are 22 and 35.

BTW- This mod should be good for any '12 Prius v, but please don't sue me if somehow yours doesn't work. I haven't done it yet....

 

The Hamsar (and Philips Daylighter) design looks for any power-on sense/trigger for the DRL circuit. On conventional vehicles that can be a spark lead, on the CR-V, it is wired it to IGN-ON power, much the same way as one would do on a Prius.

This is very ambitious compared to a four-wire, plug-and-play Hamsar 45040... +12V, GND, IGN (sense), OUTPUT (to fog circuit).

 

6 wires vs. 4, and less wires to run because you are just reconnecting 4 from the DIM, (hopefully they are long enough to move over if I can confirm that the relay is two spaces over... This is an OEM solution, and no question about wire to spark plug wire. (Was that a joke? I can only think of one reason to do that, to adjust the timing in my '85 Cadillac Sedan de Ville with an inductive timing light. You can't tap it, it'll fry anything connected to it, and probably screw your timing in the process.) Also, more reliability due to running the high beams at less than full power, (I think.) I wonder what's wrong/different with the Hamsar 45035.

 

All you need to do is wrap the Hamsar sense wire around a spark lead; sense is either inductive or conductive.

Right, and those six "OEM solution" wires are buried in and must be broken out from a harness beneath the underhood fuse box... As earlier stated, "ambitious".

 

4 from the fuse box, most likely just under. I'm going to take a peek. The other two are run. I'll update...

SCH-R530M ? 2

My fault. I should be less judgemental. Inductive is pretty nice feature, except not as useful in a hybrid.

 

Agreed, nice, meaning the sense is time-buffered to account for the spark pulse frequency, but more positive to go for IGN-on sense; even on the CR-V.

 

Wright Brothers, "One small step for man, one giant leap for mankind," Google's fleet of self driving cars, these are ambitious. Repairing/Replacing/Adding a wiring harness should be doable...

If you connected just those four Hamsar wires, you would disable your ability to use your foglights as foglights, they would always be on as long as IGN is on. Not so simple as well....

The thing about dealers, unfortunately, is that they work on commission. When I installed the remote start, I had to take it into the dealer to activate it using Techstream. When I got it back it worked just fine, but the right footwell kick panel was left removed as I brought it in removed. I knew they needed to take it out to program it. It worked fine until I put back the kick panel. It stopped working. I brought it back in and they blamed the aftermarket KARR alarm module that was left there, told me to have it removed and then bring it back. I took it home. With the advice of someone online I checked all the connections, and one was loose. Everything worked perfectly after that.... (They are a double edged sword so to speak.)

pat767, thank you for the relay/module part number! I have been trying to personally find out the correct part number and then am planning to order it. I pulled out the relay in my car and confirmed that it has 4 pins. I'm pretty confident the DRL Module as it is called should have 6 pins. I am having a lot of pressure with the family business so I may just take a leap of faith and try to buy the part number you listed. Thank you...

I still don't think you need to change the switch. The switch is shown on the diagram as having

Light Control Switch

*5 with no connections in the boxes
Tail T-EL
Head T-H-EL
AUTO A-EL

and annotated

*5 : Off (w/o Daytime Running Light),
DRL OFF (w/ Daytime Running Light)

I interpret this as: connection is exactly the same in either model. Look in the manual. If you have the same revision as me, there is DRL function in all the different versions of switch stalks.

I'm going to try to confirm the relay part number with a Canadian VIN I found online, then attempt to order the relay, and wire it up. The fuse box is actually made of 3 parts from my research. The lid, the middle, and a bottom. I wonder what happens when I remove the two bolts that seem to attach to the middle...

Hmmm. So I pulled out the DIM/DRL Module relay. I had to pull out the FAN relay to get enough room to pull out the DIM/DRL Module relay. Looking down at the 3 empty relay spots I can see that there are a maximum of 5 poles/pins/positions in each. Could it be, that the wiring diagram on TIS is not accurate. There is no spot for a 6 pin relay. The part number of the US relay is 90987-02025, pulled from my car. I found a similar relay with 5 pins 90987-04010 searching Toyota DRL relay on eBay. I found what they look like but can't seem to find a diagram of what's inside. They look mighty similar except for an extra pin.

Might not be too much work after all. IF the pin assignments/numbers on the relays line up nicely:

remove W (white) wire from pin 2, run new L (blue) wire from pin 2 to connector 2C pin 35 of Main Body ECU
remove B (black) wire from pin 3, and move it to pin 6 (if necessary)
remove Y (yellow) wire from pin 1, and move to pin 4 (if necessary)
if pin 5 is the same in both, which I'm hoping, nothing needs to be done, otherwise move B (black) and R (red) wires tied to pin 5 to new pin 5 position
ground pin 3, technically following the diagram with a W-B (white w/ black stripe) line.

This should enable DRLs.

To be continued.....

 

The Hamsar unit on the CR-V runs fogs at reduced intensity as DRLs.
When fogs are engaged via OEM dash witch, they run at full intensity.

Really not too tough. But suit yourself.

 

Hamsar should correct their catalog then. The module you list says they would be run at full power.

SCH-R530M ? 2

 

Try 45030

 

Thanks for the correct Hamsar part #. I will look into that if this fails.....

 

Not sure that's the correct one.

Here's a copy of the email I got from Hamsar:

Hi Patrick,
After reviewing the wiring diagram you provided us, the only option we have available for your would be the 45040 (70-987 at Canadian Tire) installed directly to your fog lights. if your vehicle does not have fog lights, you will be required to purchase and install a set into your vehicle.
I do wish I had better news for you, but unfortunately, this is the only solution we can provide
Thank you kindly

Joel Fernandes
[email protected]
(T) 905-332-4094 ext 244
(F) 905-332-9020
1-800-567-5483
Hamsar Diversco

 

Are you saying that if the wiring is done correctly and the relay is installed, placing the switch in "DRL OFF" will leave the DRLs on anyway?

For passing the Canadian federal inspection, it is required that the driver not be able to turn off the DRLs.

 

Hamsar makes many DRL modules with different features, not all of which are appropriate to every situation:.

• 45020 - For 2 - 4 Headlamp systems and fog lamp kits
• 45040 - For 2 - 4 Headlamp Systems
• 45030 - For 2 - 4 Headlamp Systems / includes short circuit, high voltage and temperature protection
• 45035 - For 2 Headlamp Systems / includes short circuit, high voltage and temperature protection
• 45065 - Low beam reduced 24% - For 2 - 4 Headlamp Systems / includes short circuit, high voltage and temperature protection
• 45070 Automatic Low beam reduced 24%
  • Functions as a DRL during the day
  • Photo Sensor Automatically Turns Headlamps to Full Power at Dusk
  • Includes short circuit, high voltage and temperature protection
  • Includes a time delay switch
• 45060 - High Beam Reduced 60% for 2 headlight systems

 

I noticed that you sent Hamsar a wiring diagram. I found on TIS a "Headlight" wiring diagram. It is in color and is 9 pages long, including a whole bunch of connectors and the pin assignments/numbering on them. The wiring of the DIM Relay and the DRL Module is on page 3, but I am digressing.

You can break problems down into their individual parts, to see what is different in each.

On page 4 is the diagram of the Headlight Dimmer Switch Assembly. Inside that box are two matrix boxes Dimmer Switch and Light Control Switch

Light Control Switch is basically a grid with dots connecting the letters that I have noted for each line, one is

*5: T H A EL are left completely blank, meaning nothing is connected together if the switch is placed in this position.

The legend says *5 is the same for Off, what is supposed to be shown on US models without DRLs
and DRL OFF, what is supposed to be shown on US models with DRLs.

With regards to the switch, the function of the switch whether it says Off or DRL OFF, is the same.

I also noted that the Owner's Manual has some switches with 0, Canada included. I would assume that that switch would be the same as well...

If your current switch says DRL OFF, I would be concerned that you might be able to disable the DRLs. My switch just says Off. It could also possibly disable the DRLs. I am far from determining ya or nay at this point. I'm going to have to test it on mine. Again, wiring harnesses may be different, but ECUs are less likely to be different. The process to design and implement different ECUs is just not really cost effective, especially just for DRL or no DRL. Just wire it differently, or set the programming differently. It is definitely wired differently in this case. I am yet to determine whether there is a programming difference as well.

I asked the parts guy specifics about availability of the relay, and he said it might take 4 to 5 days, before he shipped it with other stuff to me. From then it should only take a day, Carson is not too far from where I am having it shipped.... I have an appointment for the car Tuesday the 28th for service so I'm not sure I'll be able to work on this more 'till after though...

If you need a quick solution and have one that is reversible. (One person said that here, I'm not sure it is you. Then you could go that route for peace of mind right now, and then when/if I confirm this works, you could try and then reverse the process....) I'll be sure to update any failures/issues on the way...

 

Here's the Webelectric module DRL-2P in action.

Took my time and was at it for 3 hours.

Light switch in the OFF position.

 

Looks good! Same result with light switch in "Auto" position?

 

Correct.

In "Auto" position, daytime: DRL turn signals stay on.

In "Auto" position, night time: DRL turn signals are off.

 

Well done!

 

Thanks! Passed Canadian federal inspection today. Took 15 min. It was a breeze with this DRL module. Then passed provincial mechanical inspection. Once again, easy pass; the car is almost new. Then got my license plate. All steps are done.