Do you really have to

Yes, you need to disconnect the 12V battery, and also press the brake pedal a few times to get rid of residual pressure in the brake actuator. Or else, don't be surprised if the piston shoots out of the brake caliper if the skid control ECU decides to power up the brake actuator pump while you have the caliper removed.

 

Yes, the pump would just run to re-establish brake pressure if the 12v bus was still energized.

JeffD

 

No, the pump will just run when you reconnect 12v power (after you reinstall the calipers ).

 

Yes. There is no point in pressing the brake pedal while the 12V battery remains connected. Pressing the brake pedal a few times after the 12V battery is disconnected achieves the purpose of relieving hydraulic pressure in the brake actuator pressure accumulator, and also discharging the emergency brake power supply (the large rectangular black plastic box full of electrolytic capacitors, mounted next to the 12V battery.)

Yes, it would not hurt to do that prior to reconnecting the 12V battery. The point of that is to take up the slack between the caliper pistons and the new pads, before the skid control ECU is back online. That hopefully will prevent the ECU from logging a DTC when it is powered up.

Do not allow air to enter the brake lines upstream from the wheel cylinders, as it will be really hard to get the air out without the Toyota diagnostic laptop or equivalent.

 

Following the above procedure then treat the pad change as any other car will not give you any problems.

You will have to set the drivers auto window, and you will loose the radio presets. Also do not shut the tailgate with the 12 volt battery disconnected, it will not open without power.

To reset the window, power halfway down then power up all the way and hold the window switch up for a few seconds.

John (Britprius)

 

If you don't leave the hatch open, then you have to lower the rear seat back, crawl into the hatch area, and find the mechanical release to the hatch lock. This is a small shiny metal lever which can be seen when you open a small rectangular door located at the rear of the black plastic tray over the spare tire.

 

PC member "Agape" has tried different greases and came to the conclusion you need the correct grease. The copper grease is fine for the back of the pads and shims.
See link below by Agape, for Toyota part numbers and full caliper parts description.

parking brake, rear pads

John (Britprius)

 

I think the Permatex grease is excellent. Agape was informed to use the copper as it was thicker than the stock Toy grease to reduce rattling but nothing thicker than that Permatex gone2green has. Its like candlewax to prevent rattling. I have used that for years its the best on the market and I recommend it. Pins and back of shims.

Don't use gas to clean parts. Not safe and hard on body to smell that all day. Front of car will smell like gas. Not good. Use the proper spray brake cleaner.

Don't forget to flush out caliper slider holes and threaded holes with brake cleaner. There full of casting crap. Just stuff a rag in the piston hole to protect the boot. But the boot is pretty damn tough anyway.

While there in and to finish clean the brake line hose off and apply BlackMagic Protectant to the hose rubber. Will extend its life and do the same to the CV boots inner & outer.

This stuff:
Pro-Shine Protectant | Black Magic Car Care Products

 

Yeah thats the stuff I thought you were referring to. Its green and feels like candle wax. 100% synthetic.
Really good stuff. Last time I used it on my Crown Vic and so far at 40,000 miles still running really good.
No noise.