Open Circuit Squib Driver Side! Red Triangle...

I do not think it will be the connections at the actual airbag but at the clock spring it self. The Prius has many connections on the clock spring for not only the airbag, but the wheel buttons, the horn, and the cruise control. Have a look at the pictures in the link below.

2006 Steering wheel

John (Britprius)

 

This should enable you to remove the airbag from the steering wheel and carefully inspect the connections at both ends of the cables making sure any connectors (plugs) are fitted correctly and are all the way home. Disconnect the 12 volt battery before starting work.

Prius spiral cable.pdf

John (Britprius)

 

I have done some homework on the wiring from the airbag ECU to the airbag in the steering wheel. This would allow you to check each of the four wires that go from the ECU to the airbag (through the clock spring) with your meter set on ohms range if you feel you would like to try this.

John (Britprius)

 

If you are around tomorrow I will give you chapter and verse on checking each of the wires. I am almost sure this is where the problem is. The wires under the seat do play a part in the pretension of the seat belts but the code given is not for that plus the ECU gave out information in an previous post by you of seat position ect.

John (Britprius)

 

The damage to the engine sump is common with front end collisions. The drive shaft gets pulled out of the transmission and is pushed into the sump. As long as the repair holds the oil reliably (no major leaks) it should be ok. However if at a later time "when you have sorted the other problems" if you wish to replace the sump it can be done with the engine in situ, and is not an expensive part.

John (Britprius)

 

On to the the testing of the "squib wiring". This may at first sound complicated but in real terms it is strait forward so do not be put off.

To start you need access to the airbag ECU, this is behind the curved panel below the dash in the center of the car so this panel will need removing. The airbag will also need removing from the steering wheel.

I suggest you remove the airbag first and check visually that the connectors are properly in place on the rear of the airbag and at the plug where they attach to the steering wheel clock spring connector. I would unplug it at this connector and look carefully at pins on the connector on the clock spring (look for bent or broken pins that would not align properly with the cable end connector). This is the most likely place for trouble.

There are 4 wires that run from the ECU to the airbag that need to be checked in exactly the same way as you check the fuses with the ohms range on your meter. One probe from the meter on the ECU connector and the other probe on to the the same coloured wire at the airbag connector. The reading should be low 2 ohms or less.

They start at a connector (pug) on the ECU and end up at the airbag, but are not continuous pieces of wire. There are two connectors on the way to the airbag, the first is on the underside of the clock spring on the steering. The wire then goes round and round in the clockspring coming out at the connector on the top of the clockspring then on to the connectors on the airbag by way of the wires covered in the orange plastic tubing in the pictures (in the link post 41)

On the circuit diagram shown below I have marked the wires you need to check. I know it looks complicated but just concentrate on the four wires you need to check. In the two drawing (side by side) on the left is shown the connector on the ECU, connections 5,6,7,8. On the right connections to the airbag 1,2,3,4

Connection 5 marked D+ wire colour yellow with black stripe goes to airbag on right hand drawing pin 1.
Connection 6 marked D- wire colour yellow goes to airbag pin 2.
Connection 7 marked D2- wire colour yellow with green stripe goes to airbag pin 3.
Connection 8 marked D2+ wire colour yellow with red stripe goes to airbag pin 4.

So your first test would be from connection 5 on the ECU to pin 1 (same coloured wire) on the airbag. Then check the other three in the same way.

Disconnect the 12 volt battery before starting work. Also test with the airbag removed completely. If it helps to get at the connections at the ECU end the connector (plug) can be pulled out of the ECU. You are connecting your meter probe to the connector with the wires in it not (not the ECU).

Hope this does not sound too complicated. Any questions just ask.



John (Britprius)

 

Set the meter on the lowest ohm range (probably 200 ohms). you will not get a voltage reading, you will get a resistance reading in ohms. This should be low (less than 2 but probably more like 0.2) like when you touch the meter probes together with the meter set to ohms.

Your question 3 yes one on each end (one at the ECU end and one on the airbag end) but make sure your on the same coloured wire.

Your question 4 sorry I have not got a picture I'll see if I can find one, but it behind that curved panel in the center of the car under the dash. It is the lower of 2 ECU's on the floor, the top one is the ECU for the aircon and should be labeled as such and has two connectors in it I believe. The lower one is the airbag ECU and has three connectors in it I believe. The one your looking for is the longest one with 30 pins but look for the correct coloured wires in positions 5,6,7,and 8.

If you remove the airbag first (don't forget to disconnect the 12 volt battery) and have a careful look you may spot the problem and not have to do the testing "fingers crossed" but let me know the results. I am going for a pint shortly after 8.30pm so will not be back here till tomorrow after that time.

John (Britprius)

 

If your meter probes are too big to reach the connectors, rap a paper clip tightly round the metal end of the probe leaving one end pointing out to give a nice small probe.

John (Britprius)

 

Sam, something that might make your life more easy. Check this first instead of using the ohms range on your meter turn the knob to diode check then put the probes together. This on most meters gives an audible tone if yours does this you can use this mode to check out each wire. If it is ok you will hear the tone if not silence.

John (Britprius)

 

Yes if one or more of the wires has high resistance (more likely to be completely open circuit) we have to find out why and the most likely place for a problem is at the connectors or in the clockspring. Checking the full length of each wire including the inline connectors is the first step to find if any or all are open circuit. Then testing each part till we find the culprit.

The diode check position symbol looks like a triangle with a line going into the center of it's base and a line coming out of the opposite point.

John (Britprius)

 

Posting a picture of your meter with the leads in it may help to make sure you are using the correct settings.

John (Britprius)

 

Try turning to this position to see if it beeps. If not go back to the position you are using. I cannot read the writing for the top red socket can you tell me what it says.




John (Britprius)