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Clicking & Creaking Noise when turning, braking, accelerating!!

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Sam Dean, Jul 6, 2013.

  1. Britprius

    Britprius Senior Member

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    Sam is it the alloy you have damaged or the plastic wheel trim. The plastic trims spray paint well to cover scratches and if you need it I can give you the correct UK paint code for them.

    This is one of the many good reasons when fitting new tyres to go up one size to 205/55/16 as the slight increase in width helps protect the wheel rims.

    John (Britprius)
     
  2. Sam Dean

    Sam Dean Member

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    i think the plastic wheel hub which has been fitted over the actual alloy cracked and some of the grey alloy underneath got heavily scratched.....a part of me is still pretty peed off - more so because I'm confused as to why they have to make it so expensive and difficult to drive in London!

    What I may do John, is eventually, when these wheel hubs crack completely - I'll reveal the grey alloys underneath and possibly put a nice coloured vinyl wrap over them in order to re-juvinate their look. I may go with a silver colour. Who knows - so let's see.

    I'll do some manual wheel alingnment checking tomorrow, with some string - it should be okay i reckon - this car has been put together pretty well.

    I just wanna get to the bottom of this creaking sound.....

    I'm still waiting on my torque wrench....as soon as it arrives - I'll be taking the wheel off....just need some formal tests to carry out.


    hmmmm
     
  3. Britprius

    Britprius Senior Member

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    Suspension noises can be difficult to trace sitting in the car. I use a small cardioid microphone on a long lead. The microphone has a very strong magnet as part of it's construction.
    I attach it to any point on the suspension or engine, and transmission that could be making the noise and plug the other end of the lead into the aux port of the radio with the volume turned up, and take the car for a drive. This soon pinpoints where the noise is coming from. Rather like a stethoscope.

    John (Britprius)
     
  4. Sam Dean

    Sam Dean Member

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    WOW - cool!!

    Can i make one of these?

    I was thinking of a similar product - but wasn't sure how it would fit in and around the moving wheel....but then again - I could test it with the wheel off and a friend could make the turns and press the brake whilst I have my listening equipment connected.

    maybe I could even put my fingers/hand on the different parts to feel for a sound/vibration
     
  5. Britprius

    Britprius Senior Member

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    Any cheap microphone with a lead attached (with an extension lead if needed) will work. (Try Maplins) You can always tape it in place if it is not the magnetic type. The lead I tape out of harms way, and bring it into the car through the window or even carefully shutting the door on it. (the wire is quite thin). If your radio does not have an aux port in the center arm rest you can use a portable radio or anything that will act as an amplifier.

    John (Britprius)
     
  6. Britprius

    Britprius Senior Member

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    Providing you are not running the car it is amazing how much you can trace a noise with a long stick, placing one end against your ear the other end where you think the noise is coming from. Rather like the men from the water board checking for leaks under the road.

    John (Britprius)
     
  7. Sam Dean

    Sam Dean Member

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    my torque wrench arrived today and I don't have a clue as to how you set it to 76 Ft Lbs

    All of the numbers are uneven which I didn't expect!!

    How would I set round numbers on this wrench?

    On the other side, there is a NM scale aswell
     

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  8. Sam Dean

    Sam Dean Member

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    I just got back from the mechanic and he reckoned that the CV joint is causing the steering clicking and the brake clicking is coming from the calipers which need cleaning and greasing.

    I've watched quite a few videos on YouTube on how to change or even repair a CV joint and so I'm happy to have a go at this. Does any body know where to get a good quality CV joint?

    Also - regarding the brake calipers - are there any specific instructions on cleaning brake pads/calipers on a prius?


    Thanks
     
  9. patsparks

    patsparks An Aussie perspective

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    Changing CV joints isn't easy for a home mechanic. If you don't have lots of mechanical experience don't tackle this job. the parts are expensive and can be damaged and you can do harm to other parts like wheel bearings if you get it wrong.
     
  10. patsparks

    patsparks An Aussie perspective

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    Just watched some videos of changing driveshafts. Oh they make it look so easy! It isn't.
     
  11. Sam Dean

    Sam Dean Member

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    I was at the mechanic today and he found an issue with the bush, closest to the body of the car, on the wish bone.

    He recommended that I change the whole wish bone but I don't know why he said this when I would have thought just swapping out the bushing would do the trick? Is this a common problem with formerly written off cars?

    I'll double check with him tomorrow because the wish bone looked okay to my un-trained eye :(

    He also found that the car's alignment was bad due to the chassis still being bent after a heavy collision which took place before my ownership.

    Anyway, I will start with fixing the imminent/visible problem of the bushing/wish bone and then see if the sound goes. If not, then I'll look to a cheap cv joint. There seems to be a lot of instructional videos online for a lot of this work.

    1 step at a time I guess
     
  12. Joe 26

    Joe 26 Member

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    Assuming that the bushing is available separately, there would be extra labor involved in removal and replacement of the bushing from the arm. At shop labor rates it may not make economic sense. On some cars the potential is there for damaging the arm when changing out the bushing. Also, you get both bushings with the arm as well.
     
  13. Sam Dean

    Sam Dean Member

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    yep, well this is it - i spoke to toyota this morning and they said that they only sell the whole arm (for £200!!!) because the bushings alone would cause risk of damaging the wish bone

    looks like i need to find one of these at a breaker yard....or find a good second hand/refurbished unit
     
  14. Sam Dean

    Sam Dean Member

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    Just a thought - but if the car's body-work is imbalanced, then wont the next bushing just become damaged eventually? Due to mis-aligned driving?
     
  15. Joe 26

    Joe 26 Member

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    Most likely not. If the vehicle was still that badly damaged, you would likely perceive it while driving or through severely uneven tire wear.
     
  16. patsparks

    patsparks An Aussie perspective

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    Nolathane bushes are great if available where you are. You would need to change both sides. They are more rigid so make the car feel much stiffer and might transmit a little more road noise to the cabin.
     
  17. Sam Dean

    Sam Dean Member

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  18. Sam Dean

    Sam Dean Member

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    Out of interest - if I fix this bushing issue, will the tyres become better aligned?

    Currently due to the chassis still being slightly curved/bent/not fully straightened out, the right tyre is not properly aligned/in line with the opposite tyrethe inner part of the tyre is wearing more quickly

    Is this something that can be sorted out with some alignment work?

    Cheers
     
  19. Sam Dean

    Sam Dean Member

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    Okay - I've just taken some measurements of my wheel distances in order to work out what side tyre wear is taking place on the most and how to potentially fix this.

    Note: The collision was on the right side.

    Due to the car not having been straightened out correctly - the distance between the back alloy's edge (furthest towards the back) and the front alloy's edge (furthest towards the front) - on the driver side (right side) - is 312 cm

    on the left side of the car, it is 313.5cm

    So the right side's wheel's distance is 1.5cm shorter than the left side.


    I also measured the distance/width between the front two tyres - both at the front edge point and the back edge point of the alloys.

    the width between the two tyres at the front side of the front wheels was 171.8 cm - and the width between the back side of the front wheels was 171.1cm. So this means that the front tyres are pointing outwards at the front, by approximately 0.7cm - and therefore need to be adjusted and turned towards each other by approximately 0.4cm.


    my questions are:

    a) how can i make this adjustment? Is it just a case of turning a nut on the wheel adjustment arm/

    b) will this stop the tyre from unevenly being worn out because currently I believe one side of the tyre is slightly more worn than the other side on it. I can't remember fully but I think on the driver/right side front tyre, the outer side of the tyre is slightly more worn out than the inner side of the same tyre.

    c) will tyre adjustments/alignment work because the length of the wheel base is uneven between the two sides - or is this a problem that can be resolved without having to actually stretch the right side chassis out more?

    Many thanks in advance for any help here :)
     
  20. Britprius

    Britprius Senior Member

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    Sam seeing the pictures of your wishbone bush this needs to be replaced first. When the bush is replaced it will push the rear end of the wishbone outwards this in turn will push the wheel forwards. How much is unknown but it will move it forwards.
    The tracking cannot be done until either the bush is replaced (there is absolutely no reason unless the wishbone is damaged why this cannot be done) or the wishbone is replaced complete.
    Tracking is done by slackening the locknut against the track rod end and turning the track rod either way "in or out" to adjust the tracking.
    If you find the steering wheel is off centre after tracking, you will need to screw the track rod in on one side of the car "say one turn" and out on the other side by the same amount keep adjusting till the wheel is straight when the car runs in a straight line.
    Do not!!! remove the steering wheel and re position it, as this will upset the zero point calibration for the power steering and affect the VSC.
    I do not know what method you used to check the distance between front and rear wheels, but this can only be a rough guide.
    The rear axle is only held in place by rubber bushes and it is not unusual to find even on a brand new car for the axle to be out of line " giving what is known as a thrust angle".
    Also turning the steering wheel even a very small amount will vary the distance between the front and rear wheels, adding distance on one side and subtracting on the other.
    Your car is known to be out of track "the wheel pointing outwards" adjusting the tracking will turn the wheel inwards and at the same time move it forwards.
    The best way of checking wheel position is from fixed points on the underside of the car to fixed points on the wishbone such as the centre of the bottom ball joint.
    To sum up your wheel may not be any where near as far out as you believe at the moment you cannot take meaningful measurements until the wishbone bush and tracking are rectified.
    Hope this is of some help and lifts some of your concerns.

    John (Britprius)