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01 prius p3006 and 3000. also I think it was a799

Discussion in 'Generation 1 Prius Discussion' started by scotman27, Aug 8, 2013.

  1. scotman27

    scotman27 Active Member

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    just got a message from him. now ehn checking the ahr capacity. what rate of charge/discharge should i do. right now the bad cell im cycling at 2 amps. is that ok.
     
  2. scotman27

    scotman27 Active Member

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    im thinking of cycling the whole battery over the next couple of days. is that ok to do that. my charger can charge 2 at one time but can only discharge one at a time.
    so i could discharge starting with the cell closest to the hv ecu till the charger shuts off then charge. and then discharge the next cell while the other is charging and so forth. is this a good idea or should i just let it go and worry about the adjacent modules to the bad one in block 6 and just replace the bad one.
     
  3. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    The one that has the sudden voltage change is FUBAR. Don't fiddle with it any longer.

    Measure the Ahr capacity of the modules on either side. They have been subject to higher heating loads because the failed module became a 'resistance' heater. Then I would measure the next pair out . . . a total of four modules.

    We'll take the top two as a 'sample' for the pack and that should be the target Ahr for all replacements. As for the two adjacent and likely weakest . . . your call on whether or not they would be replaced or not. But they would be excellent candidates for the experimental, rehydration experiment . . . at a later time.

    Bob Wilson
     
  4. scotman27

    scotman27 Active Member

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    that the other question, when checking the capacity, how should i do it with the adjacent ones. drain and recharge once. or cylce them 3 times. my fear is boosting the ahr capacity and messing up the battery. what is your recommendation?

    i found a prius battery company about 2 1/2 hrs from me. called priusrebuilders.com

    check this company out. they told me i can get a rebuild with gen 3 cells for $1750 which i dont think is bad at all. I just want to get through the next couple months so i dont have to take out too big of a loan if i can help it(i could get a loan today and buy a battery but i dont feel like doing that). the less of the loan the better.

    Anyways back to the capacity thing.
     
  5. scotman27

    scotman27 Active Member

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    how would you cycle the cells to check the capacity? drain and charge once? at what amperage also?
    my charger does not like going over 2 amps on these.
     
  6. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    I would do one complete discharge-charge cycle and only one module at a time. You want the per-module capacity, not some average which can not be isolated to specific part. Also, set the minimum voltage per cell to 1V. You do not want to go under that value as it risks losing that NiMH interface in the cells that makes it work.
    That is fair market value but the usual gotcha is shipping and installation. Now if we could get your car working well enough to drive up and let them handle the swap. . . . no shipping!
    Although bad module replacement can work, it has a spotty record. A few have reported good results and others poor. Replacing with a good traction battery built by people who have inventory and match the modules and repair or replace failed or failing buss bars and wiring is IMHO the best approach.

    In November 2009, I decided to upgrade my NHW11 traction battery with a rebuild from ReInVolt and never looked back. Heck, I even had a local shop do the swap, a couple of hundred dollars, not because I couldn't but I've already done one. There was nothing new for me to learn and I was hoping they would get Prius-interested . . . (didn't work!)

    You know your cash flow and available labor to work on this car. I find the first time, it is very interesting. The second time, a little less interesting. By the fourth or fifth time, I'm getting bored and looking to find someone else to do it. <grins>

    Bob Wilson
     
  7. scotman27

    scotman27 Active Member

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    if i could get it to drive to there that would be great. if not no big deal, i got a ford escort zx2 as a back up(got the car for my girlfriend lol). ill pull the battery and take it there and swap my ecu and all that right there and bring the new battery back. or of they can do it, ill take my old cells out an go pick up their new cells and bring back the new ones and put them in my case. i know I can do it but its just a matter of how.


    now what amperage should i charge and discharge the cells at.
     
  8. scotman27

    scotman27 Active Member

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    i dont think I can set a minimum voltage on my charger. ill check
     
  9. scotman27

    scotman27 Active Member

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    no i cannot set a voltage stop on my charger. i guess ill stay with the battery.
     
  10. scotman27

    scotman27 Active Member

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    the battery module voltages starting from the hv ecu to the opposite end.

    1)7.83v
    2)7.61v
    3)7.56v
    4)7.53v
    5)7.50v
    6)7.50v
    7)7.48v
    8)7.45v
    9)7.46v
    10)7.43v
    11)7.44v
    12)7.04 v(BAD)
    13)7.44v
    14)7.44v
    15)7.46v
    16)7.46v
    17)7.44v
    18)7.47v
    19)7.46v
    20)7.47v
    21)7.58v
    22)7.46v
    23)7.46v
    24)7.47v
    25)7.46v
    26)7.45v
    27)7.46v
    28)7.45v
    29)7.48v
    30)7.48v
    31)7.47v
    32)7.48v
    33)7.50v
    34)7.53v
    35)7.56v
    36)7.60v
    37)7.65v
    38)7.70v

    what do you think besides number 12 being bad. is module 21 anything to be worried about?

    thank you,
    Scott
     
  11. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    To me, the higher voltage modules are the ones that probably could do with a little discharge to 'even them out'. But you'll notice the higher voltage ones are on the 'cool' ends of the battery pack. The weaker ones are in the middle and I don't see 21 as being a problem.

    Bob Wilson
     
  12. scotman27

    scotman27 Active Member

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    Now i called priusrebuilders and talked to mark there. i told him my situation and I told him what i am doing and he told me all that does at 1 amp is measure capacity. that you want to measure capacity and resistance. so i would have to bump up the charge/discharge to 3.5 amps and top off at 8.5v then discharge to 7.8v and measure the mah that get discharged from 8.5 to 7.8. that at 1 amp its not reading the usage that you would get in the car i will only get capacity. is this true? oh and he said never take it down to 6 volts as that can destroy it. is this true?
     
  13. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    A little heavier current than I like to use but he is 'in the business.' I'm just a home experimenter and do NOT make my living from these systems.
    I would not take it below 6V either and my programmable charger protects me from that risk. I have not tried to figure out how low you go to cause irreversible damage but I have no problem with using 6V as the threshold.

    My interests has been in recovery, not 'how can we kill this module.' <grins>

    Bob Wilson
     
  14. scotman27

    scotman27 Active Member

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    i agree. now i recharged and topped at 8.5v and it gave me 1285mah which i dont think is right. this is the cell thats the second out towards the hv ecu. i am now bringing it down to 7.8v at 3.5amps. what should i do
     
  15. scotman27

    scotman27 Active Member

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    is the guy at priusrebuilders correct in the cycling of these cells at 3.5 amps? from where they are sitting to 8.5v the down to 7.8?

    im trying to see if this company is full of it or if they make sense because when the time comes, im thinking of getting a gen 3 rebuild from them since they are only 2 hrs away from me and I want you guys to see what they are telling me so i can get a good idea from those here that have been succussful with their own batteries if these guys make any sense.

    ok lets take a question answer.
    all who have cycled their packs to bring them back to usable capacity, what did you do and how well did it work out?

    if this needs to be moved to another thread let me know, ill post this elseware. I'm thinking of cycling my whole pack to get me by for the next couple months so i can build funds. but want to know how to do it and do it right.

    thank you,
    Scott
     
  16. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    I don't have any problem with the thread. Just some comments:
    • Typically battery capacity is measured using 0.1C from my sources. For a 6.5Ahr battery, 0.65A (650 ma.) is what I try to use but I've used 1A before. The problem is higher current tends to lead to more heat.
    • My module testing has been 'on the bench.'
    • I did do a before and after full-pack, in the car forced charge and discharge tests looking for capacity and weak modules. But this requires a pack in a car and a recording OBD scanner that know how to read all of the traction battery metrics.
    • As for "PriusRebuilders", their web site has all the right descriptions in their FAQ. Their prices seem reasonable.
    If your car can make the trip, I would just take it there and let them change it out. You might have to stay overnight but the job is done.

    Using modules I can provide should give you some time, at least a couple of months, but there is no guarantee. The last time we tried this, the car had more modules fail within a couple of months.

    If the car is good enough to run with them, I would monitor the health using the Scangauge II options identified earlier. But I would plan to take the car there, perhaps over the Columbus or Veteran's day holiday and get a good pack installed.

    Bob Wilson
     
  17. scotman27

    scotman27 Active Member

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    thats what im thinking. he does generation 3 rebuilds for 1750 includes everything and the ecu. mark at priusbuilders said he could send me 3 modules for $20 each shipped. i did his testing procedure and at 3.5 amp discharge from 8.5 volts down to 7.8 all were in the 750 mah range. he said thats good numbers.
     
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  18. scotman27

    scotman27 Active Member

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    mark asked me how many miles are on the pack, i told him 164k on the pack so he is going to find some that were around that mileage so i dont throw the pack very far out of balance. i mean what do you think would be the better way to go. your batteries or his. i have no clue what your testing/ balancing/ charging/ discharging equipment is(its better than what i got thats for sure). nor do i know what his equipment is either.

    im kind of lost as to where to go just to get me by to build funds for another pack. either through you or him.
     
  19. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    It sounds like Mark wants your business and I'd recommend follow through with him. I am not in the business of rebuilding packs, experiment, yes, but only to address my own curiosity.

    If there is a problem, I'll still be hangin' around the usual places. <grins>

    Bob Wilson
     
  20. scotman27

    scotman27 Active Member

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    Well of course he does <laughs>. he will make money. if i did batteries, which i wouldnt mind getting into that. i like it. i would be trying to get as much business as i could also.