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Common 2G Problems, and What to Do About Them...

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Patrick Wong, Mar 6, 2009.

  1. bucd

    bucd New Member

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    Battery terminal for jumping is where you think it is. Ground is right below windshield by driver side, power is in fuse box. Check manual for diagram.

    I would change out key fob just to do it if it's been over a few years or you dont' know when it was last replaced. Check sticky thread for that, it's all there.

    Good luck!

    -D
     
  2. EmeraldCity

    EmeraldCity Junior Member

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    *******HELP!!!********

    Just bought a 2007 prius gen II on Sunday.
    43k miles
    Dealer maintained, looks brand new.

    PROBLEM 1: When I come to a stop, the ICE doesn't seem to turn off like it should. It is half-nice person running when stopped, and the car kind of kicks a bit. Once the light is green and I take my foot off the brake and gas it, everything is fine. Engine turns on, runs smoothly.

    PROBLEM 2: (Likely related to problem 1) Intense rich exhaust smell when at a stop. Windows up, ventillation in recirculation mode, still get the strong smell.

    I know a bit about cars, this is my first Hybrid. It seems to me that there is some kind of switch or sensor that is not giving a complete signal to the car to shut off the ICE. So it is halfway deciding to shut down, half not. This is making the air fuel mixture too rich and the extra gas isn't being burned off by the half running engine.

    NO warning lights on.
    Don't have a code reader yet.

    Ideas??
     
  3. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    1. What does "half-nice person" running mean? Either the engine is turning, or it is not. Perhaps you mean that there is an engine misfire or rough idle? If there are no warning lights on, at least take a look at the engine for vacuum leaks - such as a loose or missing engine oil cap or oil dipstick, bad O-ring on the oil cap or dipstick, loose PCV hose, a bad throttle body gasket, etc.

    2. Sounds like you have a hole in the exhaust system, I suggest this needs to be checked out immediately as this is a safety issue. Especially once the engine has warmed up you should not notice any exhaust emissions from the Prius gasoline engine.
     
  4. EmeraldCity

    EmeraldCity Junior Member

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    Sorry, what I meant by that was the engine is not shut off, it is running. However, without RPM gauge, I cannot say with absolute certainty that I'm experiencing a poor idle, because the engine is just too quiet inside the cabin. Imagine putting your foot on the brake at a stop sign, and feeling pulsing/jerking as if the car wants to continue to go forward. Also, there is zero smell from the car when idling at home after initial start. The exhaust smell is only after driving a while and at a stop.
     
  5. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Well, when this happens, can you turn into a parking lot so that you can shift into P, open up the hood, and see what the engine sounds like? Will the engine continue to run when the gear selector is in P?

    If not then can you get a friend to listen to the engine, or else sit in the driver's seat to hold the car stationary in the D shift position, while you get out to listen?
     
  6. lakeview rud

    lakeview rud New Member

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  7. seilerts

    seilerts Battery Curmudgeon

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    The engine won't always stop. If HV battery state of charge is low, then the engine will come on or stay on to charge it -- and you will feel it when it engages the motor-generator in the transaxle. This can create a little extra vibration as opposed to pure engine idle. HV SOC may be low due to running the A/C or, surprise!, heavy DC converter usage to prop up a weak 12V battery. Similarly, if battery state of charge is too high, then the motor-generator will turn the engine crank to burn off the charge.

    You are sure the car was never in an accident?
     
  8. avipet

    avipet Junior Member

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    Is it hard to change the spark plugs yourself?
     
  9. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    No, if you have the correct tools (3/8" ratchet wrench, 3/8" torque wrench, metric sockets and 5" to 6" extensions). Remove the relay box over the engine for better access.

    The main concern is that when reinstalling the plugs, you must make sure the threads are not cross-threaded because you will be in big trouble if you damage the spark plug threads in the aluminum cylinder head. Turn the spark plugs by hand to make sure the threads are properly engaged.

    I use a length of rubber hose that fits over the spark plug tail to get the spark plugs started, as there is no way to damage the threads with the small amount of twisting torque that the hose will provide. Once a plug is started correctly then you can pull the hose to remove it from the spark plug tail and then use the torque wrench to tighten.

    Buy the correct NGK or Denso iridium spark plugs, do not be tempted to buy a strange substitute like a multi ground-conductor spark plug or some cheap platinum plug.

    Before reinstalling the spark igniters, inspect the plastic body for cracks, burns, or other damage such as rust deposited from water collecting in the spark plug well. Inspect the electrical terminals for corrosion. Replace an igniter if damaged.

    Tightening torque is 80 in.-lb on the little bolts that hold the spark igniters to the cylinder head valve cover; and 13 ft.-lb on the spark plugs themselves.

    Make sure the wiring harness connectors leading to the spark igniters are secure, the lock produces a click when engaged.
     
  10. mgb

    mgb New Member

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    Not sure if I should start a new thread or not - and I'm failing at search.

    Our 2004 (~140k miles) has a few quirky behaviors that, on reading some of this forum, I'm wondering if there are some related things.

    1) This just started. Sometimes, while taking a moderately large turn at a moderate speed (say, turning into a parking lot through a sweeping entrance ramp) the big red "Warning" alert triangle shows up and the MFD says "Problem". As soon as speed and/or turn angle is reduced this alert goes away. I don't know how to get access to some kind of error log to see what the problem was.

    2) This has been on going for years : the Prius can't remember that we like F and not C for our temperature readout. When the car turns on, it's in C; if you hit Climate and the back out again, it's F. I assumed this was some simple watch battery on an accessory board somewhere. It also resets the AC set point to 75. Everything else about the MFD is still 'remembered' from start to start.

    3) There was an intermittent "gurgle" noise that would tend to sound off when accelerating. I believe we did replace the water pump at one point when that was on the recall list; the gurgle stuck around. Lately it's not been there. Maybe because all the water ran out. Which may or may not be a good thing.


    So from digesting as much as I could of this thread, I'm going to check the 12 V battery via the in-car-diagnostics routine, and see if that might be a problem. I thought I read somewhere that I can't locate now that the first problem might just be an oil level issue - I have to check the oil and see if it needs a quart or two.

    Is there anything else I've missed for starters or has anyone else had these issues?
     
  11. Jim Porta

    Jim Porta Junior Member

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    for # 1 Check your engine oil level. Sounds low
     
  12. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    1. Yes, check the engine oil level immediately as it probably is more than 2 quarts low and if so, this is causing permanent damage to your engine.

    3. Check the engine and inverter coolant levels by looking at the two translucent reservoirs and ensuring the fluid is at the full levels. If the engine coolant level is low, you will also need to check the fluid level in the radiator itself, by first removing the large plastic cover over the radiator for access to the radiator cap. The fluid in the radiator should be at the top of the neck. Use Toyota Super Long Life Coolant only.
     
  13. Katsu Curry

    Katsu Curry Junior Member

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    Thanks for all the info on this. I'd rather spend the money getting the proper tools than at the mechanic's.

    Noob question (never worked on the engine before):

    Do I need to check the gap on the spark plugs before I put them in with that (technical term coming up..) gap checker thingy? I've got a 2004 Prius.

    Thanks in advance.
     
  14. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Yes, you should check the spark plug gap on the new iridium spark plugs before installation, which should be 1.0 to 1.1 mm. I set the gap on the narrow side (1.0 mm) so that the plugs stay in spec longer.

    Do not adjust the gap on used plugs as the ground conductor may break off.
     
  15. Billyboy

    Billyboy New Member

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  16. PriusSport

    PriusSport senior member

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    It's probably been covered here, but that beep sound when you shut down is the computer telling you your key fob battery needs to be replaced. I have had the experience. You should replace it at that point, since it can go dead anywhere and you could be stranded unless you have a replacement battery in the car.
     
  17. jadziasman

    jadziasman Prius owner emeritus

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    No, you won't be stranded. You just insert the fob into the slot on the dash and off you go. BTW, that's assuming you've managed to get into the car in the first place.
     
  18. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Which is a good assumption only if 1) you can find the mechanical key within the fob, and 2) the driver's door mechanical lock will work.
     
  19. jadziasman

    jadziasman Prius owner emeritus

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    I wonder how many people don't know that there's a mechanical key in the fob. I wonder how many have actually needed to use it. I haven't (yet).
     
  20. ToyotaPrius2005

    ToyotaPrius2005 Junior Member

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    I have a 2005 Prius with 189,000 miles on it. Prius's with high mileage seem to start burning more oil. I change the oil about every 5k-7k, before changing the oil I get a yellow triangle on the Dash for a second or 2 when breaking, I generally rush to get my oil changed at this point. The oil change place mentioned that my oil is down to one quart or so after 5k, so going forward I'm going to use synthetic oil.

    Has anybody had any problem with low oil levels using synthetic oil? Also could there be another problem that my Prius is burning almost all of its oil at 5K?

    thanks :)
     
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