Red Triangle in 2001, Got the Codes

how many miles are on your car, thats the first thing.
I got 164k on mine and got the bad hv battery, im in the process now of replacing the one bad cell in it(cost me for 3 cells to be safe under $100). chat up with Bob Wilson(Bobwilson4web), he is great and filled with knowledge. dont scrap the car, thats pointless. you can get for around my area, a built gen 1 pack with gen 1 cells for just under $1k(dont do this), a rebuilt gen 1 pack with gen 2 cells for about 1300 to 1500(consider this) or get a rebuilt gen 1 pack with gen 3 cells for around or under 2k(the way to go if you want to hang on to your car for some years yet.) I always put it this way. fix my car for 2-3k and be good at 50 mpg or junk it/trade it for a brand new car and pay 3-500 car payments for 4-6 yrs and it negates any 50 mpg fuel savings plus lose your job, lose your car and credit. plus you have history with your car and know what you got in the way of what you have fixed on it.

 

0) Ask yourself what you're willing to pay to keep the car on the road.

1) Change the 12V battery. People report some strange stuff when the 12V's not working right, presumably because the low voltage messes up operation of all the sensors. A bad 12V battery will drain the traction battery faster and lower efficiency. Replacing the battery will help ensure you're getting the right information.

2) If problems continue, find out if you can get it fixed within willing budget. The quoted price seems extremely high. You should be able to get a module replaced or a new battery built from newer modules for much less, as Scotman indicates.

 

i misspelled for bob wilson its bwilson4web

 

The symptoms and codes are consistent with a failed or failing traction battery. The combination of mountains and warmer weather are a risk factor for the Gen I modules. Good, they don't take heat well and high-speeds through hilly and mountainous areas can 'heat pump' the batteries. There are driving approaches that can minimize this risk.

I don't know of any rebuilding services in Canada and export from the USA may be just as expensive. The advantage of a rebuild is the Gen II or Gen III modules are much improved. They are not impervious to abuse but their thicker terminal seals and lower internal resistance means they don't concentrate the heat in the terminals like the Gen I modules.

The $4000 seems expensive as I understand the going rate in the USA is closer to $2,300 for the battery assembly. However, good, fast, cheap, pick two. Good and fast means the $4,000 may be the best approach. But I would also suggests some other, long-term maintenance issues get addressed:

• inverter coolant pump and coolant - there is a new part that is much improved
• change transaxle oil - clean Type T-IV is better than what is likely to be there
• change engine coolant - it has a finite life

If you do the battery change using stock Toyota pack, get a ScanGauge II and program XGAUGEs for reading:

• min module pair voltage and index (2)
• max module pair voltage and index (2)
• four traction battery temperature measurements (4)
• reading the HV, engine, and battery diagnostic codes (9)
• MG1 and MG2 temperatures (2)
• traction battery current (1)

In ordinary driving, try to use the 'energy display'. When going up hill, back off the speed if the traction battery is showing a significant discharge. When descending hills, use "B" to reduce charge associated heating. Try to keep highway speeds to 65 mph (105 km/h). Higher speeds often leads to traction battery loading and subsequent 'heat pumping' when they replace the lost charge.

Bob Wilson

 

well said, as you can see, bob knows his stuff.

 

he is right, 4k seems pretty darn high. i would press that issue with them.

 

plus your 12v battery can be had at walmart. its lead acid instead of gell cell but will work, we dont at least that i know of off road with our prius's so i think a $60-$70 lead acid would work.