In my 01 Prius with 93K miles I developed a petty good howl in the cabin while driving at hwy speeds. Having sat in the back seat I assumed and later verified the deafening sound was a rear wheel bearing. With the tire/wheel off and turning the hub, I could tell it was worn as it wouldn't spin freely and had a dry bearing sound. Ordered a Timken wheel hub set from Autoparts Wharehouse for $193. Removal of the old required patience as it was corroded to the mount (IL salt). Rust buster, tapping bolts threaded into the rear, a punch and hammer did the trick eventually. Installation was fairly easy and all is fine. Having the vehicle up on a lift makes a big difference - one of my enduring military benefits!! Now, once again I'm asking after the fact...has anybody used Timken bearings before? Is there a better product that is reasonable?
Thanks! Can you add the part numbers and any additional details? Do they also make them for the front wheels? Bob Wilson
i ordered two front OEM bearings from toyota, 21 bucks a piece. the only issue is pressing out the old bearing, you really need a good hydraulic press to press it out and press the new one in.
Bob, here is the description: TIMKEN WHEEL HUB ASSEMBLY, SOLD INDIVIDUALLY -- 4 x 100 mm PCD bolt pattern; This is a high quality, direct fit OE replacement wheel hub assembly. Yes, they do sell front wheel bearings. Search keyword Wheel Bearing at Auto Parts Warehouse | Car Parts, Truck Parts & Auto Body Parts Online - Free Shipping on most Auto Accessories & Performance Parts – AutoPartsWarehouse
id always go for timken bearing..very good quality,,made in japan..ive been using this brand for about 5 years now.
I recently had the same problem with my 2001 Prius (218000 miles). It cost me a LOT more than yours did. I was told that the bearing came only as an assembly with the rotation sensor and it cost $350. I was charged another $280 for installation. Sounds like I got suckered.
Well-known bearing manufacturer, OEM supplier, good reputation. They now manufacture in China; I have no idea how that's going.
I'm going to have to replace the right rear hub on my 2002 with 196k miles on it currently. It is starting to howl pretty loud. dave
Take photos but do you have an old alignment report or tire wear symptoms to share? I've seen enough NHW11 alignment reports to suspect that a four-wheel alignment might be needed to avoid wheel bearing replacement. Thanks, Bob Wilson
Interesting. I may be able to dig up the last alignment report from about a year ago. Interesting that you mention that. It started as a faint noise after I got 2 new rear tires about 8 months ago, and I attributed the noise to the new tires back there, and it has just gotten alot louder to where I know the bearing is about shot. (I jacked the rear of the car up and spun the rear tire and you can hear and feel the bearing having a rough time compared to the other side.) dave
Bob, I noticed that my first rear wheel bearing failure was just after a wheel alignment. The other side rear wheel bearing failed 10 months later. The alignment shop called it a Thrust Angle Alignment. They installed a left front cam kit. The report is attached. Is there a connection to bearing failure?
That sounds like they installed a left front camber kit. That would have absolutely no effect on the rear wheel bearings. Your before and after rear numbers are typical of what you would get if you measured the rear alignment, bounced the car or moved it a bit then measured again. It doesn't look like they did anything to the rear.
Tire wear wasn't unusual. The Firestone tires I replaced had 56,747 miles on them. I ask for a wheel alignment when I purchased new tires primarily because tires are now a large expenditure and I wanted to make sure the vehicle is aligned. I'm merely asking does my alignment report give any indication to anything that would cause wheel bearing failure that occurred so soon afterwards.
It could have been the process by which your wheels were removed. Sometimes the wheels are rusted to the hub so tight that it takes mighty blows with the biggest hammer in the shop to get them off. The degree of force necessary for removal increases with time as well as with the environmental factors, such as living in rust-promoting Illinois.
Good point. I noticed that wheel sticking. I've been cleaning the back side of the wheel and smearing a film of grease on it before mounting. It works.
I'm installing a Timken rear assembly on my 2001 tomorrow. Can any of you tell me the torque specs for the job?
They're not in front of me at the moment, but the whole procedure's around page SA-45 and following in the manual (techinfo.toyota.com, access for the weekend is cheap). That'll also have the procedure for the followup wheel sensor test, etc. Could you let us know whether the Timken assembly comes with the wheel sensor attached, or you have to add one (or move the old one over, which I think wasn't recommended)? The manual does show how to remove and reattach it. Looks like it wouldn't be hard to get it crooked and have a bad day, but I've never tried. The Toyota part comes with the sensor in place (but I also paid $260-something for it, from an online discounting Toyota dealer). -Chap