Skid sensor alarm, can't accelerate

Oops, try it now.

 

Here's a video of the actual alarm going off.

 

Ok I check the speed sensor resistance and both sides are registering 1.6K ohms.

I checked both toothed wheels and all teeth are intact, and they appear to be in the same alignment.

I swapped the sensor from right to left and ran the blink test. ABS blink code read 31 and 32. In removing the right sensor, the 10mm bolt head sheered off, so now I can't put it back on. I couldn't really install the right side sensor correctly on the left side because of the way it's shaped (bumps into the bottom of the joint assembly). So it was plugged in, and mostly installed, but not 100%. It still read a code for the left front.

Now I put everything back together and it still shows codes 31 and 32 for both front sensors. But maybe that's normal until it clears it later?

Is there a fuse that relays the sensors I can remove?

 

I cleared the codes. ABS 32 reappeared upon starting the next time. Brake still shows 36 and VSC 43.

I drove the car into work (with the jumper installed, hopefully that's ok!) and ABS codes 31 and 35 began to flash as well. 35 is a new one. After a few minutes on the highway the speedometer stopped working and read zero mph for the rest of the trip. Coming home the speedo worked at low speeds, but cut out again on the highway. Does the speedometer get its reading from the front speed sensors?

I don't mind buying new sensors if I'm sure that's the problem. But if they still seem to be good, what's the next option?

 

Picked up a bolt extractor from harbor freight. Busted 3 drill bits and one extractor. I may be out of my league on that one.

Wheel bearing seems to pass inspection. There is no noticeable wobble when driving, and when it's up in the air I cannot wiggle the rim in any direction. Everything seems solid. Would it help to have a code reader, or are the blink codes enough?

What is ABS blink code 35?

 

I took the car to a front end specialty shop to get things checked out. They said everything looked good and loaned me a tap. I made sure the sensor and seat were really clean, got the right wheel sensor bolt tapped out (with about 3 hours of drilling and a dozen busted bits) and the sensor put back with a new bolt. I reset the ABS blink codes. Took the car for a spin. Same problem exists, Skid warning comes on between 35 and 60mph and shuts down the accelerator and even applies the brake. BUT when I put the car in diagnostic the ((!)), ABS, VSC lights flash rapidly and show everything is normal.

I took the car to the auto parts store and they pulled the codes. They said they wouldn't show anything about the ABS, but that it would show things related to the check engine light (which came on recently).

P1116 "Refer to vehicle service manual"
P1150 "A./F sensor circuit range/performance malfunction"
P1151 "Please refer to vehicle service manual"

Anyone know more about these codes?
P1150 makes sense to me, since I bought the car from an auto auction and it had probably sat for 2-3 months. I just barely filled the gas tank, and I only got 29.75mpg on that first tank of gas. I put a fuel additive/cleaner in when I filled up and this second tank seems to be getting much better mileage. I figure the bad gas set off the code.

So I broke down and took it to the dealership. Went for a test drive with a tech, and as soon as it happened he said "Oh, it's going into limp mode". He said something related to the check engine light could put the car into limp mode. I told him the car has been doing this for longer than the check engine light has been on, but he said the code could have been pending for that time and hadn't set the light off yet. He said it would be $115 for him to check codes and just recommended I get an OBD2 scanner and reset the codes myself to see if the problem comes back.

As luck would have it, I came home and my Centech 60693 scanner I ordered from Harbor Freight was sitting on my doorstep! So I rechecked the codes and reset them. Took it for a spin. SAME problem with skid control. No warning lights are on, in diagnostic mode everything is flashing rapidly indicated that all systems are ok. Rechecked with the OBD and NO codes have appeared. I'll check for codes again tomorrow, but this all seems very strange.

Any ideas? Doesn't sound like limp mode to me.

 

The video was mistakenly set to private, but I changed it to public after John posted.

 

After resetting the codes and driving for a few days the skid alert problem still persists. The only code that now shows up on the OBD scanner is P1151. No ABS, Brake, VSC codes. Anyone know P1151?

 

I used a Centech 60693 scan tool from Harbor Freight.
When I use the jumpers to put the car in diagnostic mode there are no more blink codes showing.
When I drive in diagnostic mode, everything works fine. However in normal drive mode, when I reach between 35 and 60mph the skid warning starts beeping. Sometimes the car forces a slowdown, sometimes it doesn't. The beeping won't stop until I slow to 25mph.

 

The coolant storage tank was replaced with the damage, but I suspect the mechanic did not properly bleed the air. It is clearly unrelated to the skid alert.

I was hoping that someone may have a map of the VSC electrical with specs so I could check the electrical components. I am crossing my fingers that I can find a bad fuse, wire, relay or something that I can replace.

When I visited the dealer they didn't inspire a whole lot of confidence in their ability to correctly diagnosis. I got the impression they wouldn't really search for the root of the problem and their automatic resolution would be replace the ECU for a couple grand. So I'm looking for any help so I can avoid that fiasco.